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Old 01-21-2004, 11:24 AM   #1
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Watchman goby difficulty in breathing.

Why my watchman goby seems difficulty in breathing, its the only fish in the tank, with LR and a snail. I tested for NH3 and NO2, both 0, specific gravity also accurate, temp 80 degreeF, but I did'nt test for nitrate, would high NO3 cause fish to be difficulty in breathing? It did'nt gasp for air at the surface, it stays at the bottom. Besides high NO3 (if that is cuasing the fish breathing fast), what other high level or other elements can cause the fish to act this way?
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Old 01-21-2004, 06:22 PM   #2
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mabe its a smoker !!! hehehe j/k think ya being paranoid and if all test ok then give him some time !!!
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:03 PM   #3
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Re: Watchman goby difficulty in breathing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mansiz
It did'nt gasp for air at the surface, it stays at the bottom. Besides high NO3 (if that is cuasing the fish breathing fast), what other high level or other elements can cause the fish to act this way?
Excessive nitrate levels can cause a fair amount of discomfort for the fish and be quite stressful. Unless over 50 ppm though it should not really be a danger but a few water changes over the next few days would help. I would also suggest you check your ph and make sure you have adequate surface water aggitation. There are a few things that could bring on rapid breathing but in a healthy fish should be short lived given the proper water parameters.

Have you also checked for the possibility of infection or parasites?

Cheers
Steve
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Old 01-22-2004, 01:31 AM   #4
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The goby died today, there don't seems to have any infection on the goby skin, for internal i'm not sure, the PH u mean power head or the PH? If its powerhead, I think its more than enough, I have a 2000L/hr powerhead for my 13 gal tank, if ur Ph is talking about the hydrogen PH, then I think it should be around 8.2 to 8.3, cas I did put in the mineral block, its quite expensive, $20 over, it indicates that it will buffer the PH to 8.2 and 8.3, and add 72 trace elements as well. So I suspect that its NO3, cas few days ago, I did moves the LR before, I think I read from some where before that NO3 will rise when LR are being disturbed. I think I will buy a NO3 tester to test the amount after chinese new year. BTW if its really NO3, how do I reduce it? I know one methods is to change 10 or 20% of water, is there other methods? And is there a method to prevent nitrate rises if I don't keep my lights on for very long a day? Because there is no one at home till night time, so the most I can switch on the lights is 2 hours a day. There is no corals in the tank, and my substrate is normal sand, not very deep, around a little less than 3.5cm thickness. Should I make it deeper? (since there are no fish in the tank, just LR and a snail.)
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Old 01-22-2004, 11:53 AM   #5
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Sorry for the loss

Quote:
Originally Posted by mansiz
if ur Ph is talking about the hydrogen PH, then I think it should be around 8.2 to 8.3, cas I did put in the mineral block, its quite expensive, $20 over, it indicates that it will buffer the PH to 8.2 and 8.3, and add 72 trace elements as well.
Yes I was speaking about the concentration of hydrogen. It sounds to me though you have relied on the "mineral block" to maintain the system and are not sure what the levels actually are. Have you actually tested the ph and do you know the alkalinity of the water?

I am not sure what this product is but that may be the source of your problem. Could you post more details about this block or a link to the manufacturer. Sounds to me that it has possibley caused a water poisoning issue as well as possible excessively high ph.

Quote:
So I suspect that its NO3, cas few days ago, I did moves the LR before, I think I read from some where before that NO3 will rise when LR are being disturbed.
Moving the rock about may cause a small spike in water parameters if there was alot of trapped detritus and possible gases but that should not really be a concern with your tank given the depth of the substrate and the water flow. Typically unless a major reconstruction and things are moved about disturbing the entire ecosystem, this should rarely be a concern.

Quote:
I think I will buy a NO3 tester to test the amount after chinese new year. BTW if its really NO3, how do I reduce it? I know one methods is to change 10 or 20% of water, is there other methods?
Having a nitrate test on hand would be a great resource so I do hope you get one. On such a small tank, water changes would be the best way to deal with water quality issues. Another way would be to increase the water volume and filtering capacity of the tank. A refugium with macro algae would probabley be the best suggestion for that route.

Quote:
And is there a method to prevent nitrate rises if I don't keep my lights on for very long a day? Because there is no one at home till night time, so the most I can switch on the lights is 2 hours a day. There is no corals in the tank, and my substrate is normal sand, not very deep, around a little less than 3.5cm thickness. Should I make it deeper? (since there are no fish in the tank, just LR and a snail.)
The bacteria that convert nitrates are not light dependant so that is not a concern. Lack of lighting can be a bit of a concern with ph at times but with only one fish should be fine. If anything I would suggest a simple light timer to allow for a proper photoperiod. This will allow a more natural environment for the animals and possibley spur some coralline growth depending on the light. The depth of the sand is up to you. Providing it is a proper oolitic aragonite sand, 1-1¬Ĺ" (2.4-3.5cm) should be fine. Of the three nano tanks I have, all are about 1" deep.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 01-22-2004, 10:21 PM   #6
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The balance block info, here goes:

the box cover
HBH BALANCE BLOCKS
CALCIUM AND TRACE MINERAL REPLENISHER
-contain chelated minerals
-adds calcium
-adds 71 trace elements
-buffers pH to 8.2-8.3
-assists in coral growth

the back of the box
Balance Blocks replenish and add calcium and a total of 71 vital elements to saltwater and reef aquarium systems, while stabilizing the pH at an ocean stable 8.2-8.3. Balance Block contain calcium and trace mineral in a chelated form to make them more bio-available to all forms of aquatic life for improved development, health, and vitality.

Balance Block are compatible with either synthetic marine and/or natural seawater. They are compatible with all conventional filtering materials such as sand, gravel, crushed coral, activated carbon, biomedia, polyester fiber materials, and foam material.

Dosage: One balance Block per 20 gallon tank capacity is adequate, but Balance Block may be used safely in tanks as small as 10 gallon. Place block in an area of good water circulation, but not in direct path of water pump outlets to avoid prematured dissolving. When a block has dissolved, another block may be added.

Its maufactured at springville,UT

I did'nt see any website at the front or the back of the cover, and the above is all the info provided by the box. I place only one block, not in direct powerhead outlets, but it dissolved the next day, I wonder if the watchman goby EAT it!!!?? According to the LFS, they said one block should last 3 weeks, so 1 day and 3 weeks is really too much a difference. If the goby really eat it, will it cause death? But I can't stop the fishes to eat it, since the block has to be in the water and with good water circulation, the fishes is such of good reach to the block.
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mansiz
I did'nt see any website at the front or the back of the cover, and the above is all the info provided by the box. I place only one block, not in direct powerhead outlets, but it dissolved the next day, I wonder if the watchman goby EAT it!!!?? According to the LFS, they said one block should last 3 weeks, so 1 day and 3 weeks is really too much a difference. If the goby really eat it, will it cause death? But I can't stop the fishes to eat it, since the block has to be in the water and with good water circulation, the fishes is such of good reach to the block.
I am fairly confident this is the problem. Too much, too fast. The quick release of all those elements so quickly has spiked the ph and offset the water chemistry dramatically. I have personally never used the HBH block so I cannot give you any first hand experience but I would not suggest this routine for such a small system. FWIW, I probabley wouldn't use it in a larger tank either. To many "unknowns" being released into the tank and no idea of at what level.

Have you been able to properly determine the alk, Ca, ph or any othere elements?

I would suggest running with carbon for the next week or so swapped out with new every few days and some 15% water changes. This should hopefully regain the balance in the water.

Cheers
Steve
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