White Anenome = ?

[flanque]

Hi,

I purchased a white anenome some time back (it had a purple stem) and it changed to brown with time. All is good with this one.

I then purchased another white anenome, white stem, and it has been okay, but over the past fortnight it has been seeming to stay closed a lot and looking a little limp.

Is it true that a white anenome means it is on deaths doorstep? What can I do to help fix this? My levels are as follows:

Amonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: 0, pH: 8.3, KH: 190, CA: 400, Phosphates: 0.25, Salinity: 1.025-1.030, Temp: 28C.

These are fairly constant. I keep the KH and CA within the "ideal" ranges as so quoted everywhere I go.

If it IS in fact going to die, I'd rather know so I can get it out of the tank now before it nukes the rest of my tank.

Thank you.

 

[fishing]

Maybe it's not getting enough light unlike the other anemone. Sometimes anemonies have "bad days" and stay closed and look limp, whereas the next day it will open back up again. Is it getting enough circulation? Anemonies don't do very well without enough light or circulation. Your water properties look good. Try to reduce the phosphates to 0 ppm by adding a phosphate removing agent to your sump or canister filter. If it indeed dies, remove it from the tank IMMEDIATLY as it will quickly foul the water and cause water quality problems. Anemonies turn gooey and slimy and easily fall apart shortly after they die. Use a net to advoid having it disintegrate while removing it. Good Luck

 

[flanque]

Hi,

Yeah it is getting enough light, or at least has the possibility to. It has been fine in its current location for some time, and there is plenty of light across the board in the aquarium.

It seemed to be looking more alive today though.

I put in a phosphate removing bag into the filter about three weeks ago so that should hopefully take care of that.

Any other tips?

 

[steve-s]

With an ailing anemone in the tank I would not add any PO4 removing products just yet, it could further the bleaching the anemone has already experinced and make matters worse. Although zero PO4 is the goal, 0.25 ppm is something that can be dealt with at a later time when the inhabitants are all doing well.

If this is the extent of your lighting, it's really not enough.

2 x 3 foot long 10,000K fluros (1 blue [35W], 1 white[35W]).

Not too sure here so correct me if I've misunderstood wink but your lighting looks like 3x35w NO fluorescent?

If so, about the only anemone that might hang on would be a condylactis sp. but just barely. The brown color of the other anemone suggests it is overcompensating the production of zooxanthellae to make up for the lighting shortfalls.

In order to properly help the anemone as far as care requirements, it's best to get a proper ID of the species. If possible please post a pic....

Cheers
Steve

 

[flanque]

Hi,

Thanks for this so far. I am aware that I need to get another light fixture for my aquarium. They're expensive in Australia unfortunately. I recon I'll be looking at around $80 for one with a non-external balist.

I am having trouble finding higher wattage lights though. The best I could find is 35w ones.

My corals in there also _seem_ to be doing fine. Not sure how you can judge this other than they aren't closed up, and aren't dying (other than the golfball which seems to be coming back now).

I'll try to post a picture later tonight for your review.

 

[flanque]

I haven't had the opportunity to take a photo, however what are the symptoms I should expect as the anenome enters its final stages?

Also, about the zooanthelle... I thought the anenomes are meant to be brown by nature, and that going from white to brown is actually healthy?

 

[steve-s]

I haven't had the opportunity to take a photo, however what are the symptoms I should expect as the anenome enters its final stages?

The gut of the anemone will typically be expelled and will sometimes be accompanied by a heavy mucus coating the anemone.

Also, about the zooanthelle... I thought the anenomes are meant to be brown by nature, and that going from white to brown is actually healthy?

Brown does indicate zooxanthellae is being produced but it is not the natural coloration of most anemone species but as I said it's hard to be accurate without knowing the species. The heavy production of zooxanthellae can be just as stressful to the anemone as being bleached in some cases. Proper lighting is paramount to their health.

Cheers
Steve

 

[flanque]

Hi,

I have attached a photo of the anenome that changed from white to brown. It's a crappy picture.. for some reason my digital camera doesn't take good photos of almost anything in my marine aquiarum (fresh water and anything else is fine).

I'll try to take a photo of the suposed sick on when it comes back around to the front. It's decided to move off now and face backwards.

 

[steve-s]

Taking pictures in a SW tank can be tricky. You need to use a tripod or something else the camera can be rested upon. The fluorescent light throws of the camera's sensors as well skewing colors and typically requires manually adjusting the white balance.

As far as the anemone above, the details not very clear so all I could offer is a guess but it does still look bleached unless the picture is that deceiving.

What lighting types are available to you locally?

Cheers
Steve

 

[flanque]

Hi,

I know the picture looks deceptive. Its tenticles are actually brown. I'll try to take another picture from above. If I use the flash they come out much better, but I feel that an unexpected bright flash with annoy the fish a lot.

I have access to regular flurescents, compact flurescents and metal halloids, but I only have the light fixtures for regular flurescents.

I really think I should add another white light as I only have 1 white and 1 blue light on them at the moment.

What do you think?

 

[steve-s]

I have access to regular flurescents, compact flurescents and metal halloids, but I only have the light fixtures for regular flurescents.

I really think I should add another white light as I only have 1 white and 1 blue light on them at the moment.

Adding additional NO lighting will have very little if any possitive effect. If proper reef lighting is available to you then that is your best (and should be your first) choice. For the tank you have, a 4x65w PC light set up would be the minimum to keep these animals healthy and thriving.

Regular fluorescents do not have enough intensity to penetrate the depth of the tank.

Cheers
Steve