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DreamEcho2

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Mar 22, 2011
Messages
9
Location
Henrico, VA
Good afternoon everyone. I'm a newbie to your website, but need some help/advice on my tank. I have a 14 gallon freshwater tank with the following fish:
1 Cloan Loach (had 2, one died from fin rot)
2 Dalmation Mollies
3 Tetras
3 Neon Glofish
1 Albino Algae Eater

About a month ago, one of my Neon Glofish died, I still don't know what happened. It seemed happy and was growing, then it's belly started to distend, its jaw protuded out, and it died. I'm guessing it was a parasite. I was treating the tank with Maracyn Two, but I guess it was too little too late. About 2 weeks ago, one of my Clown Loaches came down with fin rot. I treated the tank again with Maracyn Two, but again, too late. One of my Mollies seemed to have Ich a few days ago, so I treated the water with CopperSafe, and it looks fine now. Each time I was doing regular water changes, checked the levels, and raised the temperature gradually to about 82 degrees.

Everyone else has seemed fine and healthy since then, but this morning I noticed that my Albino Algae Eater is really lethargic. It was in the same spot this morning as it was last night. I stuck my hand in the tank and poked it, and it moved away from my hand, but slowly. Usually, it's really spastic if someone touches it. Now I'm concerned that I shouldn't have left it in the tank with CopperSafe. The bottle says that it's not safe for intervertebrates w/out exoskeletons... does this apply to Algae Eaters?

Also, my Tetras seem to be changing a bit. I've noticed that the end of their tails are turning a light brown color. Their tails look normal otherwise, they are eating fine, and are still very active. I read online that this is a sign of sexual maturity... is this the case?

Thanks in advance for any help/advise you can give!
 
Most fish definitely don't like to be poked so the fact that your fish slowly swam away isn't a good sign. Also, the algae eater is definitely NOT an invertebrate. Invertebrates are along the lines of shrimp, snails, crayfish etc... Those that have hard shells aka "exoskeletons.

How often do you perform water changes? You have been dosing a lot of medicine recently it appears so consistent water changes are a must.

What are your water parameters? (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Temperature)

If you're using test strips, they can sometimes be pretty inaccurate. The API Master Test kit is very comprehensive and reliable.
 
I typically do a 25% water change once a week, but with the sick fish I've had lately, I've been doing closer to a 50% water change every week. I just have the little test strips for the water. The levels were all normal, but since the first fish got sick I haven't been able to get the Nitrates back down. The pet store recommended that I use Stress Ease, and it helped some, but those darn Nitrates are tough little buggers. The pH, hardness, alkalines, ammonia, etc are all normal and have stayed that way.

That's why I poked at it, I know that fish don't like to be touched. Everyone else is acting very normal and are all very active. The Algae Eater was acting fine until about 8:00PM last night.
 
Oh, and since I seem to suck at keeping fish alive, I increased the water temperature to about 81 degrees after the second one got sick. I did it slowly, and everyone has tolerated the change well.
 
Welcome to AA! A few questions for you:

What are your water parameters? Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate numbers please.

How long has the tank been set up?

What is your maintenance schedule? How often do you do PWCs and how much? Do you use a dechlorinator?

What filter, heater, etc., are you running on your tank?

You have a very full tank. I'm assuming you've got a Chinese algae eater. Both the algae eater and the clown loach will quickly outgrow a 14g tank.

I would do a big PWC (50%-75%) to reduce the amount of medication in the tank. The best cure for fin rot is clean water.
 
Try doing water changes more often. It could even be everyday or every other day. While Nitrates are the least dangerous of the 3 (Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate), they can still cause stress on the fish in higher amounts.

Seeing how the other fish are apparently fine, my guess is that the algae eater has some sort of sickness. Are there any physical differences that you have noticed with the fish?

It is generally good advice to have a separate tank to be used as a Quarantine tank. Generally these are smaller and will allow you to focus on the sick fish exclusively. These also have the added benefit of requiring less medication to achieve the desired dosage thereby saving you money.

Also, don't always go by what your LFS is telling you. After all, they are out to make money and will try to sell you all of these different chemicals or medications to help "cure" your fish. A lot of times there are methods that you can take to remedy a situation. Coming on this forum is a great way to learn about these different, "all-natural" methods of helping a sick fish.
 
DreamEcho2 said:
I typically do a 25% water change once a week, but with the sick fish I've had lately, I've been doing closer to a 50% water change every week. I just have the little test strips for the water. The levels were all normal, but since the first fish got sick I haven't been able to get the Nitrates back down. The pet store recommended that I use Stress Ease, and it helped some, but those darn Nitrates are tough little buggers. The pH, hardness, alkalines, ammonia, etc are all normal and have stayed that way.

That's why I poked at it, I know that fish don't like to be touched. Everyone else is acting very normal and are all very active. The Algae Eater was acting fine until about 8:00PM last night.

Liquid test kits are a better choice (API) and IMO 2 x 25% PWC's are easier on the fish and you can do more if needed. I try to shy away from chems, but if you're n03 is high a PWC will do more.

What brand filter do you have? When cleaning the media, wash it by hand in water that came from your tank. Tap water kills bacteria.

Sent from my Epic 4G using Aquarium
 
I don't have exact parameter numbers because I just have test strips. I need to go out and buy a more accurate water panel test kit. I've had the tank since December or January. I plan on purchasing a 55-60 gallon tank within the next few months and will be relocating the Clown Loach and Mollies into the bigger tank.

I have a BioWheel Filter in the tank, do water changes every week. I do not use a dechlorinator that I use on a regular basis, but I do use it with the new water added to the tank every time I do a water change. I don't know what brand the heater is, it's whatever came with the tank.
 
Oh, and since I seem to suck at keeping fish alive, I increased the water temperature to about 81 degrees after the second one got sick. I did it slowly, and everyone has tolerated the change well.

Don't worry, the majority of us started out just like you. Yes it sucks cause you don't want to lose your fish, but if you stick with it, you will undoubtedly learn a lot about fish keeping!

Losing a couple fish now seems like a big deal and is very dis-heartening, but all the while you are learning what it takes to keep the fish healthy and will help you keep a healthy, beautiful tank in the future!
 
I'm not sure what brand the filter is, it's the kind that came with the BioWheel set up.

The Algae Eater looks fine, it's just sluggish. It ate dinner last night as usual and its fins/body/eyes all look normal.

All of the other fish are flourishing and looking great. The Clown Loach is growing like a freaking weed, so I'll be purchasing that bigger tank sooner rather than later.

A couple other questions: 1.) Is it true that Tetra's tail fins turn a light brown when they're sexually mature? I've noticed over the past week or so that all 3 have been turning. 2.) Do Dalmation Mollies always turn completely black? They were spotted and "Dalmation-like" originally, but as they've grown, they're turning all black but appear to be healthy. Again, I read that this happens when they're sexually mature.

I just want to find out what I need to do to keep the Algae Eater alive, I don't want to lose anymore fish!

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
DreamEcho2 said:
I'm not sure what brand the filter is, it's the kind that came with the BioWheel set up.

The Algae Eater looks fine, it's just sluggish. It ate dinner last night as usual and its fins/body/eyes all look normal.

All of the other fish are flourishing and looking great. The Clown Loach is growing like a freaking weed, so I'll be purchasing that bigger tank sooner rather than later.

A couple other questions: 1.) Is it true that Tetra's tail fins turn a light brown when they're sexually mature? I've noticed over the past week or so that all 3 have been turning. 2.) Do Dalmation Mollies always turn completely black? They were spotted and "Dalmation-like" originally, but as they've grown, they're turning all black but appear to be healthy. Again, I read that this happens when they're sexually mature.

I just want to find out what I need to do to keep the Algae Eater alive, I don't want to lose anymore fish!

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Does aquatech sound about right? That's what I have that came with a biowheel filter. But there are probably plenty of filters that have it.

Courtesy of Dakota's iPod.
 
People have told me that the aquatechs are a piece of crap, but it works great for me

Courtesy of Dakota's iPod.
 
Bettababe1011 said:
People have told me that the aquatechs are a piece of crap, but it works great for me

Courtesy of Dakota's iPod.

I like the AquaClear brand because the media basket makes it flexable in what I want to put in it. I use other mfg's media all the time.

DreamEcho2 said:
What about my other questions? Does anyone have any information or advice?

Not sure on the changing color issues, but it is common that as some species grow up, they transform.

As for the AE being sluggish, if it seems to perk up after a PWC, there's most likely an excess of ammo/n02/n03 in your tank. Get a test kit so you know where those numbers are and IMO a 25% PWC twice a day (AM/PM) will help him in the long run.

Sent from my Epic 4G using Aquarium
 
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