Bacterial fungus? Please help

[westward13]

It's been just about 2 weeks since I've had my aquarium up and running and it's been a tumultuous first couple of weeks to say the least.

I added fish after only 3 days... per the recommendation of 2 lfs. Only after the fact did I find out that it's much better to cycle the tank before adding any fish.

I've already treated the tank for ich with Super Ich as a few fish starting showing signs of it within the first couple of days and now my tank has been growing a white spotty-looking film all around the glass, on the thermometer and even on the filter intake tubes. I've been scraping the white spots off 1-2 times a day with my algae scraper but they always grow back or readhere themselves fairly quickly. In addition to the spots on the glass, my tiger barbs have quickly developed a serious case of fin rot (2 of the 3 have since died) and one of my opaline gouramis have a white film over both eyes and has been occasionally sitting on the bottom of the tank.

Can anyone help me to figure out what's causing this? I realize the ich was probably from the stress of introducing the fish too quickly but it's only been 2 weeks and I've already done 2 water changes (a 10% water change after a week and a 25-30% water change yesterday). I'm also treating the tank with something that the lfs recommend I try. I don't remember the name but I think it's an antibiotic tablet of sorts. I have to use 1 per 10 gallons of water (I've got a 75 gallon tank) and repeat it daily for 5 days.

Does anyone know for sure if this is a bacterial fungus that I'm having problems with and if there are any other measures that I can take to help get rid of it as soon as possible so as to prevent any further casualties?

 

[Christmasfish]

Allrighty..
first words of warning....
you need more frequent water changes! an antibiotic will toast your biofilter! so do not count on any of the water parameters to be affected for the good over time...color it gone (if the other meds didn't kill it first)

Antibiotics are only going treat certain things..and often the nasties in a tank are gram negative bacterias that are resistant to treatment and need specific drugs to target them. The shotgun approach with antbiotics ony helps to develop meaner bugs.

Since you biofilter is already ruined normally I would suggest this fast fix of any tank 30 and smaller....Tear it down!
Do not return the media this time and soak it in bleach to kill off the nasty fungal and protozoa ooze.
The white stuff is at the tip of my memory ..I will have to research it and see if it came up earlier at this site... I am SURE it is not good! (though there is a not harmful vversion of protein scum in salt tanks)
Though I think there is an equivalent thing in injected tanks.a gooey stuff

With 75 gallons tho..... 8O 8O

If you are not cash tight.... a cheap 10 gallon or two 6 gallon critter keepers that can serve as QT/hospitals later too. With a tank that large you never want to do this again if you can help it! It may seem an expense now, but after you use them as Qt and look at your tank full of friends...you'll know it as a bargain at twice the cost! (10 gal/9@walmart or keepers/8@freddies =airstones.99ea=tubing/3.99=cheap air pump $10=splitter(if 2 tanks).59=RELIABLE longer livedd submersible 25watt heaters 16 ea=total prolly40 bucks..cost of hassle, meds and fish loss in a large tank?yawp you can SEE the savings)
If you stick to whole tank method: Best I can suggest is to change your water 50% every third day which is when you re-add most antibiotics. salt your tank as heavily as your weakest species can handle, get an areator and turn that heat up to about 86. Also keep your water as low as you can for the size animals you have to make these water changes easier and your med measurements better.. there are extenders for HOB intakes that can help there.

HOPEFULLY someone witgh a similar past problem and tank size can give you a better method. I use archaic methods because most my tanks are dutch.
I always worked with water 40gal or less and 500gal and over. Ponds for koi usually. (4-10k in gallons)

 

[westward13]

Thanks for the advice! I'll definitely do 50% water changes every third day moving forward until I can get this problem resolved. I've actually been shopping for a qt since I got my tank set up but it seems a bit late now for that to be of much help. I'll probably just drop $50 at the lfs to get the 10 gallon starter kit with everything I need (hood, lights, heater, filter). I tried piecing it together myself and it works out to the same thing financially speaking (after shipping).

A couple of questions for you... will I have to change the bio-wheels in my Pengiun 330 altogether? If I lower the water level to make the water changes easier to do, will the bacteria that's already attached itself to the walls of the aquarium and/or filter intake tube die off? If not, I'd be afraid to treat the tank only to refill it all the way and reinfect the rest of the tank with whatever bacteria was left up top.

 

[Christmasfish]

After antibiotics and meds I doubt any of your good bacteria is left living...I'd not even try to include that scenario...
those 10 gallon kits usually have some so-so filters and carp heaters, the only bonus really is the fitted top. Don't you have a petcomartworld near?
Just forget about the filters and clean it out good and replace it new when this disater comes to its close.
Most buggy boo shall die out with no hosts in the tank. And you've already treated with an antibiotic....it is the animal where they resistant stuff hides
Now power rangers is on and teh speaker near my head..my IQ will have a fatal drop if I don't go do something!

 

[westward13]

Just a quick update... I'm on the 4th day (out of 5) of the antibacterial treatment. My gourami has gotten much better and the tank is looking a lot better (but is still showing some growth all around the glass and tank decorations). The good news is that it's getting progressively less and tonight I'm going to do a 50% water change as you had recommended. As far as leaving the water level slightly lower to help with water changes over the next week or so... if I leave it too low, won't that create problems with the filters? They'll be splashing down quite a ways and I'm not sure of what kind of effect it will have on the motors.

 

[Christmasfish]

As long as water is moving through the filter I don't see a problem for a short term... the long fall will cause curent and areation, but they can deal with that much space to move away.
You would have to have and extender though..the intake needs to be at least a few inches under surface....
you might use a non -scented paper towel and wipe the excess yukd away to weaken it's hold. When you have gone through the meds proper..
Keep testing. Sick fish are tough.....