Bloated fish help!!

[Swiftyll]

Hi, I have recently noticed my fish getting bloated/fat. It's the only fish of 8 in my tank that is like this.

Any help on what this condition is will be appreciated thanks.

[jlk]

Hi and welcome to AA!!! We need some more info here- if you check out the stickies in this section, theres a list of questions as well!

What size is this tank?
Is it cycled?
What are your exact water parameters (amm, nitrite, nitrate, ph)?
What type of test are you using (liquid or strips)?
What is your water change schedule (%, how often)?
How long has this fish looked like this & did it appear quickly or gradually? Are there any other symptoms?
Is this fish or any other fish new? If so, did you QT?
What do you feed (brand, type foods)?
Have you tried any treatments yet?
Do you have a QT?

Some more info will help us to help you better!

[Swiftyll]

Size of tank is 80litres
Not cycled
Change water partially every 2 week.
Bought 2 goldfish, 1 is one that is ill around a month ago.
Along with 4 minnows that I have had 4+ years
Fed with KingBritish flakes twice.
Symptoms appeared quickly
No treatments tried yet

Hope this is enough info, thanks,

[jlk]

Ok- you have a few issues here. 80l is only @21galllons- with 2 fancies plus additional fish, you are overstocked. Fancies need 20gal for the first fish, atleast 10g for each fish after. They are extremely messy fish & need heavy filtration & frequent water changes. You also mentioned your tank is uncycled- you need to test your water daily & do water changes to keep toxins under control. Heres a link on cycling with fish: I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!

Do you have an API fw test kit? If you dont, you need to get one asap. Water quality is a likely culprit in your fish's condition though it may not be the only culprit. What you are seeing is dropsy- its a symptom & not an actual disease itself. As your fish is already pineconing, his chances of recovery are not optimistic.

The best thing you called do right now (and in the future) are water changes. I would do a 50% wc with properly conditioned, temperature-matched water immediately. Add a low dose of aquarium salt (1 tablsp/10g) premixed in a cup tank water & added gradually over the course of 24hrs. Redose only the salt you remove with wcs- ie 50%wc, redose 1/2 the original amount of salt. Because we do not know what your exact water parameters are, i would continue to do 50% wcs daily until you can get a test kit to monitor your water conditions. I would offer some cooked, deshelled crushed peas as well. If your fish is suffering unduly, euthanasia may be your only option. I wish you luck & hope he recovers with healthy water!

[Swiftyll]

Thanks for your in-depth reply, firstly I have ordered the API test kit you stated, after almost buying a reef kit noticed and changed it to a FW :P.

Secondly should I move my fish with dropsy into it's own bowl or leave it be?

Is there a particular type of aquarium salt that you like to use? Or is it not some that needs a special brand etc...

How long should I leave my fish to try and recover don't want him suffering needlessly.

Thank you,

[jlk]

Good job ordering a test kit! I would leave him in the tank- theres no need to further stress him. Use regular aquarium salt (not marine salt) which can be found in fw area of your lfs. Alternately, you can use kosher, sea salt or canning salt but check the ingredients first before using- there must not be any iodine or anti-caking ingedients- just plain NaCl (salt) with no other ingredients.

You can also pick up some epsom salts (any pharmacy or drugstore carry this) & give him an epsom salt bath once a day. You will need a large container (1-5 gallons size). Fill it with temperature-matched (to ur tank), conditioned water. Add 1 teaspoon epsom salts per gallon of water & dissolve. Add the fish & watch him closely- if he starts to roll/flip or seems very stressed, move him immediately back to the tank water. If all is ok, continue to watch him- the bath should be @15mins. Move him right back to the tank after the bath. I am not sure where you reside, many countries are very strict with meds. We can try some meds as well but i am not sure what you have access to- healthy water is the most important thing right now.

[Swiftyll]

Think I have noted these correctly

no3 @ 100
no2@ 0
GH @ 8 d
KH @ 20 d
ph @ 7.2

[jlk]

If your nitrates are @100, you need to do some water changes asap. They should be no higher than 20ppm & preferably lower. How are your ammonia levels?

[Swiftyll]

Not sure, the test kit hasn't arrived yet, so I nipped out and bought some of these test strips. Dosn't seem to have an ammonia test :/. How often do you think I should WC, and how much?

[jlk]

Two back to back 50%+ wcs should bring your nitrates down to the 25ppm range. Make sure you use temperature-matched, properly conditioned water. Match the temp of the new water to that of your tank water. Do the 1st wc, wait an hr & retest your nitrates. Then do another big wc. You should also check your tap water & see what the nitrates read- this will be the lowest number you will be able to reach with wcs.