Does my fish have ich?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

sholi

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
141
Yesterday i noticed these 2 white spots on my fish.
Is it itch?
And i do see some white particles in my tank floating on top which i never saw before.
This happened after i completed my parasite guard medicine when one of my guppy had red spots all over herself and now the red spots are gone after using the medicine.
After 3 days when using the medication, and putting the carbon back in on the third day after using the med., should i use the medication again?
I have a Tetra Parasite guard.
So is it ick? TOday on the 4th day, white spots expanded in size somewhat, but there are still 2 white spots. But none of the other fish are infected.
img_1560961_0_2af3c3e856f72864293372ea4752a695.jpg


Thank you!
 
If you mean the two dots by his dorsal fin nd by the base of his tail id say it could be, has any other fish in the tank have this? Did you cycle the tank? If it is ich it is in the VERY early stage of it....
 
cycled, 10g, ph=7.5 nitrate,nitrite, ammonia=0
 
shoud i do the parasite guard? I used it twice and it cured the internal parasite (pooping white strungy) and as said, the red spots all over my female guppy.

Oh, and theres 4 female and 1 male, one of the male died unknowingly why.
 
Try just raising the temp to 82-84 and treating them with aquarium salt. This method worked on my Oscar when he got ich.

Read bruins link
 
yeah, ok then. But since i cannot afford salt, i might as well try the parasite guard, knowing that ick is parasites. But the medication told me to only use twice, but CAN i use 3 times to insure?
 
Are you positive there were zero nitrates? I'm heavily planted and I still get nitrates, could you test again? Are you using test strips or a liquid test kit?
 
i think it might be due to not putting in the carbon soon enough.
 
If it is ich you can treat it with just heat. Here is the info I used and it worked.

It has been found that Ich does not infect new fish at 29.4°C/85°F (Johnson, 1976), stops reproducing at 30°C/86°F (Dr. Nick St. Erne, DVM, pers. comm.), and dies at 32°C/89.5°F (Meyer, 1984), [1]

Increase temperature to 30°C/86°F. With tropical fish, an increase in temperature to 30°C/86°F is usually very well-tolerated. Since this temperature prevents reproduction of Ich, it can theoretically cure the problem by itself. So the first step would be to increase the temperature slowly, 1°C/2°F per hour until the correct temperature is reached. This temperature should be maintained for 10 days, and then slowly returned to normal. Some fish can tolerate higher temperatures. If your fish are more heat tolerant, try increasing the temperature to 32°C/89.5°F for the first 3-4 days to kill the Ich. Then reduce temperature slowly to 30°C/86°F, and hold it there for an additional 6-7 days, or until a total of 10 days have passed. Gauge the heat tolerance of your fish by observing their reaction.

Increase aeration. Increased temperature leads to increased metabolism, which enhances the fish’s immune response but also increases oxygen demand. Oxygen is lower in warmer water, so it is very important to increase surface agitation during the treatment to increase oxygenation. In planted tanks with CO2 injection, the CO2 should be turned off and extra aeration should be provided. Carefully observe your fish, watching for signs that they are not getting enough oxygen. If fish are gasping at the surface, you need to provide more aeration. Aeration can be increased by reducing the water level so the filter return makes more of a waterfall and splash, and/or use an airstone placed close to the surface of the water.
 
Do daily partial water changes. 25% daily partial water changes will provide several benefits: It will keep the water very clean, which will help fish cope with the stress of the disease. It will remove some of the trophonts and tomites. It will add oxygen. Use prime to condition the water. If the water changes seem to stress the fish, reduce the size and/or frequency of the water changes.
 
Mumma.of.two said:
Do daily partial water changes. 25% daily partial water changes will provide several benefits: It will keep the water very clean, which will help fish cope with the stress of the disease. It will remove some of the trophonts and tomites. It will add oxygen. Use prime to condition the water. If the water changes seem to stress the fish, reduce the size and/or frequency of the water changes.

I have 2 angel fish and ten danios in my tank and I turned the water up to about 30•C and all the danios were swimming around the top of the water. I gradually done this over a day from 24 degrees. Will I leave it at 30 or do something else

Thanks
 
Hey. I have 2 big air stones nearly on full and 2 powered filters pointed towards the water level?
 
Steo the great said:
Hey. I have 2 big air stones nearly on full and 2 powered filters pointed towards the water level?

Are gasping at all or just swimming around the surface? I know my guppies swim along the top alot. I don't know anything about dianos though.
 
Mumma.of.two said:
Are gasping at all or just swimming around the surface? I know my guppies swim along the top alot.

Every now and again they do seem to stick there heads out of the water.
 
Steo the great said:
Every now and again they do seem to stick there heads out of the water.

I've never experienced that before. Hopefully someone else will come along with an answer for you. I'm sorry. Just a thought though. What kind of thermometer do you use? I had one of those stick on ones and it said my tank was at 29*C I then got a glass one and it was at 32!
 
Yeah it is one of the stick ones? I'll put my thermometer in it today and see if it's really that. I lowered it to 28 just incase anyways. Thanks alot for the help though.
 
Steo the great said:
Yeah it is one of the stick ones? I'll put my thermometer in it today and see if it's really that. I lowered it to 28 just incase anyways. Thanks alot for the help though.

If it where me I would keep it at 30 and keep a very close eye on them. At 28 the ich will continue to multiply.
 
Back
Top Bottom