Dying Fish and Plants

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CharleeW18

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jan 6, 2018
Messages
5
Hi!

I have a 55 gal tropical community tank that I've been having a LOT of trouble with lately.

It's fully cycled according to my test strips and runs a 75 HOB filter with a filter cartridge (which I'll be changing to live media as soon as I've figured this out). We recently found out our tap is pretty hard as well so when I change my tank next (I do 40-50% every week) I'll use about half purified water and see if that helps.

It's stocked with one "Glofish" (the larger tetra type, it was my brother's lol), one dalmaian molly, one yoyo loach, one female betta, and three neon tetras. The reason it's so understocked is because my fish have been dying for unknown reasons. Before they go, they'll be really lethargic and weak for a few days and a few have refused food but otherwise will show no signs of an infection, bacteria, etc. I've tried everything! Separating to medicate (with all sorts of anti-bacteria, fungal, cure-all, anything that I can find, and nothing works). (I've lost three dalmatian mollies, six neons, one Glofish, four female bettas, one yoyo, and about six platies. I haven't wanted to restock until we solve whatever is going on.)

It's planted and has gravel substrate (I'm also looking to switch this to sand when my tank is healthier) and I just noticed these brown spots growing on my assorted anubias. Pictures attached. First 3 are of the same plant and the last is of another one. As you can see the rhizome isn't buried in the substrate.

I'm thinking my problems are because of the hardness of the water, as it's not algae since it won't scrub off (I also haven't had any algae growth since I established the tank except for some which grew on the glass that was easily scrubbed off and hasn't returned since; this was about two weeks ago). Could this be causing my fish and plant issues? Will using purified water solve it?

When I have a chance to check I'll let you know the specifics of the water parameters and the filter/light as well.
 

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Anubias isn't supposed to be planted in the gravel, it should be affixed to decor /rocks /driftwood, as far as test strips they are not accurate, I would invest in an api master liquid test kit, as for the fish many things could be killing the fish (disease, bad water conditions, illnesses, stress etc etc),
how often do you do water changes and how much do you replace?
Do you condition the water and with what product?
Do you temperature match the water to the tank when doing a pwc?
When cleaning the cartridge how do you do it?
When replacing the cartridge do you cut the other cartridges mesh off and put it in the filter to save the beneficial Bacteria?

Also most of your fish minus the mollies are schooling fish meaning they need a group of 6+ or they get stressed
I wouldn't have a betta in with them fish neither as bettas can be little jerks.

As far as the filter you can modify it with media that will grow beneficial bacteria so you don't throw it away when you change your cartridge as you will want to do this before you get a new filter anyways so your tank doesn't Cycle, you will run the old filter and the new filter together it won't hurt anything and will actually help, not to sure on the betta because they don't like strong currents so 2 might not be better than one in your case.

Plants look like they have diatoms I see new growth on the plants not them dying, anubias will literally grow in pretty much any tank so it's not the lights or the water if they are dying its because they are in the gravel and getting rhizome rot (pull one out look at the rhizome, see if it's brown feel it and see if it's mushy).

I would recommend a aquaclear 70/110 (I personally would go with the 110 but you have a betta age like mentioned they don't do well in strong currents.


So you see anything in the fish if you look closely no spots, no fuzzy stuff, no red sores etc etc?

If not I will have to say it's probably poor water quality and or stress.
 
Could it just be old age for the fish ?
If not you might want to read this link on columnaris...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ts-1689.html&usg=AOvVaw31CC_glS6hh4rAe5K3QSC0
If it sounds close then on to this one
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...umnaris.html&usg=AOvVaw1Z4zRnhpufHCA84p_l_L7g

How hard is your water ?

It's not old age, they were all only about a year (give or take a few months).

Thanks for the links, I'll look into it!

I can't remember how hard it was, but it measured over 7.0

Update I just checked again. In the aquarium it's 120ppm for GH, which I'm aware is far too much, which is why I'll be using purified water in the next change.
 
Anubias isn't supposed to be planted in the gravel, it should be affixed to decor /rocks /driftwood, as far as test strips they are not accurate, I would invest in an api master liquid test kit, as for the fish many things could be killing the fish (disease, bad water conditions, illnesses, stress etc etc),
how often do you do water changes and how much do you replace?
Do you condition the water and with what product?
Do you temperature match the water to the tank when doing a pwc?
When cleaning the cartridge how do you do it?
When replacing the cartridge do you cut the other cartridges mesh off and put it in the filter to save the beneficial Bacteria?

Also most of your fish minus the mollies are schooling fish meaning they need a group of 6+ or they get stressed
I wouldn't have a betta in with them fish neither as bettas can be little jerks.

As far as the filter you can modify it with media that will grow beneficial bacteria so you don't throw it away when you change your cartridge as you will want to do this before you get a new filter anyways so your tank doesn't Cycle, you will run the old filter and the new filter together it won't hurt anything and will actually help, not to sure on the betta because they don't like strong currents so 2 might not be better than one in your case.

Plants look like they have diatoms I see new growth on the plants not them dying, anubias will literally grow in pretty much any tank so it's not the lights or the water if they are dying its because they are in the gravel and getting rhizome rot (pull one out look at the rhizome, see if it's brown feel it and see if it's mushy).

I would recommend a aquaclear 70/110 (I personally would go with the 110 but you have a betta age like mentioned they don't do well in strong currents.


So you see anything in the fish if you look closely no spots, no fuzzy stuff, no red sores etc etc?

If not I will have to say it's probably poor water quality and or stress.

Okay, I'll move the anubias soon. The rhizome isn't rotting but either way this helps. Thanks!

I'll also get a test kit within the next week or so. Thanks for that as well.

I do about 40-50% every week and use Imagitarium water conditioner. Water reaches room temperature before I add it to the tank but I don't temperature match.

I rinse the cartridge in the aquarium water that is removed from the tank during water changes. Of course I take some of the filter when changing cartridges; that's pretty basic stuff :p

As I said there aren't any indicators on the fish of disease, injury, etc. My betta has stress lines which is why I suspect water quality.

I know they're schooling fish but unfortunately I don't feel comfortable restocking until the fish are healthier. I know stress causes further health issues but I don't want to put more fish at risk in case it is a disease or infection. I also don't have a quarantine tank yet, so restocking will have to wait.

The betta was a part of my sorority, but all of the other girls died.

Thanks again for your help!
 
120 ppm or 7 GH is medium hard at best borderline soft IMO and really should work for your tank..
You might want test the purified water ...Most is really just filtered which does nothing for gh an such...
 
Okay, I'll move the anubias soon. The rhizome isn't rotting but either way this helps. Thanks!

I'll also get a test kit within the next week or so. Thanks for that as well.

I do about 40-50% every week and use Imagitarium water conditioner. Water reaches room temperature before I add it to the tank but I don't temperature match.

I rinse the cartridge in the aquarium water that is removed from the tank during water changes. Of course I take some of the filter when changing cartridges; that's pretty basic stuff :p

As I said there aren't any indicators on the fish of disease, injury, etc. My betta has stress lines which is why I suspect water quality.

I know they're schooling fish but unfortunately I don't feel comfortable restocking until the fish are healthier. I know stress causes further health issues but I don't want to put more fish at risk in case it is a disease or infection. I also don't have a quarantine tank yet, so restocking will have to wait.

The betta was a part of my sorority, but all of the other girls died.

Thanks again for your help!
Until you get the test kit is there a local fish store by you that does water testing with liquid? if so take a water sample in and have them test everything, also before you do anything to get a bottle of seachem Prime (water conditioner) and condition the water with that instead as it's the best on the market, I'm not sure where you live or if you can get it but if you can grab it up, you use 1 ml per 10 gallons, if you do the water changes via buckets you just treat each bucket before adding it to the tank (i do 0.5 ml in each bucket before I add it to my tank) if you use a python you hook to the sink (which I don't recommend) you differ for the whole tank, I only do 15 gallons from a 55 that has approx 42 gallons of water so about a 35% pwc weekly.


Your hardness is absolutely fine for the fish you have as coralbandit said, I understand your concern with adding more fish because yours are dying off but your fish could simply be stressed because they are social fish and they have no one to be social with.


Before you restock get the test kit and check everything ammonia, nitrite, ph, nitrate. Get a good filter line an aquaclear hob and run both filters so you don't cycle, don't charge the gravel out in one go either as that holds a lot if your beneficial bacteria as well and with a cartridge filter you will not have enough beneficial bacteria to keep the tank from cycling, I wouldn't charge gravel until you get a good filter that can hold a lot of beneficial bacteria (aquaclear) and then I after fish get better do 1/3 gravel per week(it's hard to do but it can be done) or you can do the whole gravel bed but you will take about half of the old gravel put it in nylons or mesh bags and put it inside the tank (an eye sore but it will help the tank not to crash) and remove 2-4 weeks later depending on your water test results.
 
120 ppm or 7 GH is medium hard at best borderline soft IMO and really should work for your tank..
You might want test the purified water ...Most is really just filtered which does nothing for gh an such...

Oh wow okay, I was totally under the impression that it was horrible!

I'll test the other water for sure. What else could be causing the problems with my fish then..?
 
Until you get the test kit is there a local fish store by you that does water testing with liquid? if so take a water sample in and have them test everything, also before you do anything to get a bottle of seachem Prime (water conditioner) and condition the water with that instead as it's the best on the market, I'm not sure where you live or if you can get it but if you can grab it up, you use 1 ml per 10 gallons, if you do the water changes via buckets you just treat each bucket before adding it to the tank (i do 0.5 ml in each bucket before I add it to my tank) if you use a python you hook to the sink (which I don't recommend) you differ for the whole tank, I only do 15 gallons from a 55 that has approx 42 gallons of water so about a 35% pwc weekly.


Your hardness is absolutely fine for the fish you have as coralbandit said, I understand your concern with adding more fish because yours are dying off but your fish could simply be stressed because they are social fish and they have no one to be social with.


Before you restock get the test kit and check everything ammonia, nitrite, ph, nitrate. Get a good filter line an aquaclear hob and run both filters so you don't cycle, don't charge the gravel out in one go either as that holds a lot if your beneficial bacteria as well and with a cartridge filter you will not have enough beneficial bacteria to keep the tank from cycling, I wouldn't charge gravel until you get a good filter that can hold a lot of beneficial bacteria (aquaclear) and then I after fish get better do 1/3 gravel per week(it's hard to do but it can be done) or you can do the whole gravel bed but you will take about half of the old gravel put it in nylons or mesh bags and put it inside the tank (an eye sore but it will help the tank not to crash) and remove 2-4 weeks later depending on your water test results.

I am running an Aqueon Quiet Flow 50, will that be okay to keep? I'd rather not change my filter if I can avoid it.

Okay, I can certainly do that with the gravel, thanks!

I just called my pet store to see if they'd test the water and they said they would so I'll be bringing in a sample later today and I'll let y'all know what they say.

If it is just stress, is the best idea to just put more fish in and what's the best method for doing that? I've always bought a few at a time and just added them gradually. I didn't really consider them being stressed since the fish had been dying before it was so severely under stocked, but I can see why this may be an issue now.
 
Your water is great I have over 550ppm in my tap water or I did the last time I checked. (the state started getting a bit cranky so they are working on improving it)
 
I am running an Aqueon Quiet Flow 50, will that be okay to keep? I'd rather not change my filter if I can avoid it.

Okay, I can certainly do that with the gravel, thanks!

I just called my pet store to see if they'd test the water and they said they would so I'll be bringing in a sample later today and I'll let y'all know what they say.

If it is just stress, is the best idea to just put more fish in and what's the best method for doing that? I've always bought a few at a time and just added them gradually. I didn't really consider them being stressed since the fish had been dying before it was so severely under stocked, but I can see why this may be an issue now.
Aqueon are horrible filters sorry to say, the most crucial part of your tank is a good filter, it's well worth the investment to get a good one and they aren't extremely expensive, if you want to stay with a hob filter go with aquaclear I have 2 on my 55 gallon, I have beneficial bacteria for days [emoji4].



The second thing is an Aqueon 50 will not be enough for a 55 even though they say it's rated for your tank they are not you honestly need an aquaclear 70 at minimum or a 110 you won't regret it, they are 3 stage filters among carbon ceramic media (the stuff beneficial bacteria grows on and never gets replaced) only gets swished lightly in tank water once a month in a bucket of tank water you removed from the tank and put back in or once every 2-3 weeks, the sponge gets squeezed out in tank water you removed from the tank during a pwc and put back in and you're done.
I don't run carbon in my tank and here's how clear my tank is with 2 aquaclears

Water change Saturday https://imgur.com/gallery/rgcmP

I'm not a dealer for aquaclear or anything but they are absolutely amazing and you don't have cartridges to replace.

Let us know what the test results cane back as.

As for adding new fish I wouldn't until you get the water parameter readings,

Does this tank have a heater? As that could also be an issue if your water temp fluctuates constantly.
 
I agree I hated the aqueon that I had. After running it for 2 weeks in my 36g bf. (Came with the tank) Now it sits in my basement collecting dust Like Rick said there is no real place for decent filter media. I jimmy rigged my old top fin 40s to hold more media than I could get in aqueon. I run 2 of the topfin (Petsmart brand) and a marineland canister I also don't run any charcoal in my filters unless I have had to medicate
 
from my experience problems start when one starts messing with the water PH to much. chances are that whatever comes out of your tap is what comes from the LFS tap and i highly doubt they modify it. unless for very specific application I would leave whatever PH you have, and if things are really bad (not in your case) then RO is the only answer, not the magic "pour the bottle in" stuff.
getting from Chicago area where water is even harder.


aquaclear are great filters.
I don't run carbon in my tank and here's how clear my tank is with 2 aquaclears
its not the amount of filters, its the fact you don't have any pollutant that necessitates carbon (y) . that said I don't run carbon in my filters either
 
from my experience problems start when one starts messing with the water PH to much. chances are that whatever comes out of your tap is what comes from the LFS tap and i highly doubt they modify it. unless for very specific application I would leave whatever PH you have, and if things are really bad (not in your case) then RO is the only answer, not the magic "pour the bottle in" stuff.
getting from Chicago area where water is even harder.


aquaclear are great filters.

its not the amount of filters, its the fact you don't have any pollutant that necessitates carbon (y) . that said I don't run carbon in my filters either
That and I have my filters modified with filter floss in place if the carbon, but I run 15x turnover rate so that way my filters stir up the bottom creating less decomposing organics.
 
I just bought a AquaClear 110 at a great price. I will PM you the link.

It is a really great filter and I used my old one on my 46G and then later on a 29G and it was fine in both. It has adjustable flow. My new one will be adding extra capacity to my 72G.
 
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