Fungus?

[ebjornsgard]

I have a Mickey Mouse platy that I have had for a year develop a cottonlike growth that has spread across its body in the past few days. I noticed it yesterday, and started Tetra Lifeguard, which is a general medicine that is supposed to treat fungus, bacterial, etc. She is in an established, cycled 20 gallon tall tank a little over a year old (she was one of the first fish I put in it). Can anyone identify what this is if it's something other than fungus?

I haven't used a master kit on this tank, but I just got new test strips, and it read 0 nitrites, 20-40 nitrates. I'm going to do a water change after 5 days of the Lifeguard treatment. I would have removed the fish from the tank to treat it, but I don't have anywhere else to put her.

Side question: any idea how she could have gotten a fungus, if that's what this really is? I haven't added anything to the tank lately. All of the fish get along, I've never seen any nipping or damage. Besides her, there is a small female molly, two larger Cory cats, and 3 zebra danios. (I know the cories and danios should be in bigger groups, I'm hoping to add a few in the near future).

 

[coralbandit]

I would say the platy has ich with a secondary bacterial infection..
I would treat for ich..
Fungus only grows on dead /damaged tissue.

 

[BBradbury]

Hello eb...

Pathogens are present in any tank. It just takes a missed water change or two to stress the fish and stress can affect their immune system to the point they can be infected. Healthy fish in pure water conditions aren't at risk.

A 20 G tank should get a couple of water changes weekly of at least 50 percent, more is always better. Start a more aggressive water change routine and add a couple of teaspoons of standard aquarium salt to every 5 gallons of new, treated tap water. Putting chemical medications into the tank is never a good idea, you don't know how they will affect your fish. Reduce the amount you feed to a little every couple of days. Sick fish aren't likely to be hungry and you don't want to pollute the tank water with uneaten food.

Pathogens aren't likely to do well in very clean water with a trace of salt in it. Continue to follow this routine until you see improvement in the fish and then you can stop using the salt and reduce the water changes to most of the water once a week.

B

 

[Potluck]

Your fish is covered in ich, I would treat with rid ich plus which also fights secondary infections that might arise from the ich itself, I would do a 40%-50% water change with a thorough gravel vac replace with temperature matched and conditioned water and dose the take with the rid ich + per instructions, the following day I would do a 25% partial water change with a thorough gravel vac, refill with temp matched and conditioned water then I would do 25% every other day after for the full duration of treatment, IF YOU HAVE ACTIVATED CARBON IN THE FILTER YOU HAVE TO REMOVE IT OR THE MED WILL NOT WORK sorry that's very important lol. after you see no more spots I would keep treating for 3-5 days.

as far as water changes I would do 25-35% weekly as if your fish are not used to having such large frequent water charges it can stress the fish out grin dishes in the water Chemistry and you'll just keep having problems, give you an example, I have a 55 gallon I do 40% weekly I tried to up it to 2x 40% weekly and my fish wouldn't eat, stayed at the bottom, lost color and didn't act right until a couple 3-4 days after my second partial Water change, but you can achieve the 2x30%/50% weekly like B said but you have to gradually work up to it so you don't shock the fish.

I would also make your own garlic juice to soak the food in for the fish or get garlic guard as it boost fishes immune system, you can also get new life spectrum optimum fish flake that has garlic in it already (best flake food in my personal opinion)


IMPORTANT: Before you start rid ich plus run new activated carbon in the filter for 24 hours to remove the meds that you've already added, remove activated carbon do the 50% water change and then add the rid ich plus.

 

[ebjornsgard]

Thank you for all of your information. I had an inch outbreak right when I first started the tank, but it cleared up with the Tetra Lifeguard. I assumed this was different because it started with the larger white spot on the tail, not little white dots. I agree now, that it looks more like ich. I did miss a water change, that's probably why it happened.
And don't worry, Potluck, I took the carbon out, and just left the filter runnng to keep the water moving.

 

[Matt68005]

"fungus"
No, not fungus
Bacteria and parasites
Fish dont get "fungus" infections, they have an immune system, just like every other living being.

 

[Angellove78]

Vacuum the bottom and clean the tank. Water change.then Turn up the heat, with aquarium salt and keep the lights off. Every few days water change and keep the bottom vacuumed as much as you can. Aquarium salt works! Let it dissolve in a bowl of water (same temp) and add it to the tank.Always have it on hand. It's cheap, good for everything. Every water change add another dose. Good luck. The other fish will probably get it too. Salt will kill it!

 

[ebjornsgard]

Vacuum the bottom and clean the tank. Water change.then Turn up the heat, with aquarium salt and keep the lights off. Every few days water change and keep the bottom vacuumed as much as you can. Aquarium salt works! Let it dissolve in a bowl of water (same temp) and add it to the tank.Always have it on hand. It's cheap, good for everything. Every water change add another dose. Good luck. The other fish will probably get it too. Salt will kill it!

I have 2 more days in my current treatment, and I will do a deep clean at that point, and try the aquarium salt. I've heard good things about it. Thank you.

 

[Angellove78]

I have 2 more days in my current treatment, and I will do a deep clean at that point, and try the aquarium salt. I've heard good things about it. Thank you.

If you want to speed things up so it works. It really helps to turn the heat up and turn out the light to speed up the life cycle of ich. Can't kill it with anything till it falls off the fish.

 

[ebjornsgard]

My heater doesn't have a dial on it. It's one of those pre-set heaters, set to 78 +/-2 degrees. I will take your advice with the light though, and keep it off.

 

[Potluck]

My heater doesn't have a dial on it. It's one of those pre-set heaters, set to 78 +/-2 degrees. I will take your advice with the light though, and keep it off.

That's why I recommended rid ich plus because you don't have to increase the heat with that med, do not add salt if you have plants, salt does not kill ich it promotes slime coat, heat doesn't kill ich it speeds up the life cycle of the parasites, if the ich isn't gone by the end of your current treatment honestly put activated carbon in run for 24 hours remove carbon and do rid ich plus abs the ich + any secondary infection will be gone in 3-6 days but you will continue the treatment for 3-5 days after the last spot is gone , it's the best med out there for ich in my opinion and many others, it has malachite Green and formalin.

 

[ebjornsgard]

That's why I recommended rid ich plus because you don't have to increase the heat with that med, do not add salt if you have plants, salt does not kill ich it promotes slime coat, heat doesn't kill ich it speeds up the life cycle of the parasites, if the ich isn't gone by the end of your current treatment honestly put activated carbon in run for 24 hours remove carbon and do rid ich plus abs the ich + any secondary infection will be gone in 3-6 days but you will continue the treatment for 3-5 days after the last spot is gone , it's the best med out there for ich in my opinion and many others, it has malachite Green and formalin.

That's really good to know. I will see if my local pet store has it. Also, I have only fake plants, so the salt wouldn't be an issue in that regard.

 

[Potluck]

That's really good to know. I will see if my local pet store has it. Also, I have only fake plants, so the salt wouldn't be an issue in that regard.

The rid ich plus is great the only downfall is it can't be used with scaless fish, and could possibly dye the silicone in the tank, but I would rather have dyed silicone than dead fish as ich does kill.

 

[ebjornsgard]

The rid ich plus is great the only downfall is it can't be used with scaless fish, and could possibly dye the silicone in the tank, but I would rather have dyed silicone than dead fish as ich does kill.

Okay, new question. I have two corydoras. They are scaleless. They would probably be affected by the rid ich? Also, would say be bad for them? I want to make sure before I get anything that might harm them.

 

[Potluck]

Okay, new question. I have two corydoras. They are scaleless. They would probably be affected by the rid ich? Also, would say be bad for them? I want to make sure before I get anything that might harm them.

You can't use rid ich with the cories, have to find a scaless fish safe med

 

[Matt68005]

Sulfamethoxazole and Trimethoprim (maracyn plus) along with "quick cure" (malachite green) would definitely help your fish.