I've been treating with heat and salt for about a week and a half now. It started with my keyhole but he's been ich free for atleast a week. The only fish that just doesn't wanna seem to fight it is the chocolate gourami. It keep vomit back to him. I'm dosing 4 tbspn of salt in the tank(32G) since I have scaleless fish and the heat won't go over 84F even though it's cranked to 88.
Ich won't go away!!
- Thread starter Oscarr19
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Dale_I
Aquarium Advice Freak
At 84 degrees the lifecycle runs about 3 or 4 days. If you don't get over 86, you are actually just speeding up their progress. That said, the salt should mess with their proliferation somewhat.
Since you don't want to advance the salt ratio, can you get an additional heater, or maybe one with more wattage?
Since you don't want to advance the salt ratio, can you get an additional heater, or maybe one with more wattage?
kelly77143
Aquarium Advice Activist
Kordons Ich Attack. In the green bottle is considered safe for scaleless fish and snails. It was the only product I could use. It doesn't require higher temps. But it will tint your water. You are directed to do a 20 pwc after treatment.
It worked in a few days for my fish. And it says dose for three days after the last spot is gone.
It worked in a few days for my fish. And it says dose for three days after the last spot is gone.
The Editor
Aquarium Advice Activist
Gotta read the fine print when it comes to aquarium heater ratings... Most likely rated to heat a 60g tank to 26*C when the ambient air temp around the tank is in the 20's...
The greater the temp difference between water and air the faster you'll lose heat so the more powerful the heater has to be!
My tank also has ich at the moment, and my Fluval E50 is topping out at about 28*C although I'm aiming for 31-32*C, heater is rated for tanks up to 60L and mines only 30L.
I've resorted to insulating the tank, wrapping it with towels and extra thick layers over the lid to help keep the heat in. I've squeezed another 1*C so far, and when it comes to ich that last little bit of heat can really make the difference between helping the parasite breed quicker or kill it.
That said I'm pretty well salted up also so with any luck it'll be gone soon!
Good luck getting rid of it
The greater the temp difference between water and air the faster you'll lose heat so the more powerful the heater has to be!
My tank also has ich at the moment, and my Fluval E50 is topping out at about 28*C although I'm aiming for 31-32*C, heater is rated for tanks up to 60L and mines only 30L.
I've resorted to insulating the tank, wrapping it with towels and extra thick layers over the lid to help keep the heat in. I've squeezed another 1*C so far, and when it comes to ich that last little bit of heat can really make the difference between helping the parasite breed quicker or kill it.
That said I'm pretty well salted up also so with any luck it'll be gone soon!
Good luck getting rid of it
Ok well i dosed yesterday and it'll be 24 hours soon but i still see a speck on my chocolate gourami. I know that they are still sores and not the actual parasite but i'm wondering if i should dose again. It'll be a lot easier if i don't but i'm starting to see colors on my fish i haven't seen before so i know that they're happy again.
Dale_I
Aquarium Advice Freak
I've never used chemicals to medicate for ich, but I would treat the tank as though ich were present for a full 6 days if your still at 82+ degrees. That would be two life cycles of the parasite, which should catch any stragglers trying to hold out.
