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Katiestl

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
15
I'm hesitant to post on here due to earlier posts in other forums where no one actually read what I posted and screamed at me for paragraphs on end for keeping fish in a bowl, but here goes:


The problem Now: I have 7 fish in a 20 gallon tank, 1 of my 3 White Cloud Minnows has started listing towards her tail(they're all about as big as they'll get--not tiny like neon tetras). She's tilted upwards. Was fine three days ago. Is it swim bladder, can this be fixed? She eats goldfish flakes, there are two small goldfish in the tank as well--all get along well. Heat set to 72. Had them since June, always healthy. I know other people say flakes are bad, but several people have said their minnows eat them with zero problems. Fish shop feeds them the same thing. PLease read on for the horrible history of my tank.



Our ongoing hellish nightmare of a problem: Long story, as short as possible. Some idiots gave out goldfish at a trivia night. I took two home to keep them from certain death. I had a tank throughout my entire childhood, many fish lived close to ten years with nothing fancy(filter and tank, never tested). While I cycled a tank for them, I kept them in a bowl, no other choice. This is where other forum people would stop reading and lecture me for ten paragraphs. I work with animals constantly, many exotics, never had a fish problem before, but it has been years since I had a tank. The new tank wouldn't cycle. I tracked down a couple of knowledgeable locals, they gave me some starter bacteria. It backfired. Tank smelled awful. Found another expert, water changes, constant testing and couldn't get it to zero. I started over, still no zero. This went on for two months. He suggested just using a few minnows to start as my levels weren't terrible. One week, all was well. Then nitrite skyrockets, then nitrates. All eventually self corrected in a few days. guy was always right. I switched gradually from plastic to live plants. Got a decent light, plants were growing everywhere. I don't know all the names, but creeping charlie, hornswort, red wendth, moss ball, vallisneria, something that looks like a spiral grass. They all grew, I had to throw out tons of plants. Life was good, all plants growing, fish healthy. Then, orange brown spots appeared on the glass, the glass would appear foggy, then a spot would appear, about one cm in diameter and grow until removed. I cleaned them, they regrew in two days. Then, I noticed my tank had partial sunlight on it for maybe 30 minutes/day due to changing sun pattern. I moved it, no sun hits it. The stuff kept growing. Store guy showed me a tank he had with it, named it(I forgot). He said it wasn't technically algae, but harmless to fish. Do a few larger water changes, it will go away. it didn't. Most of the substrate was covered. Filter, everything. He gave me two algae eaters(Cory) and said to use phosGuard in the filter. They are helping a lot. However, now every plant that had the orange/brown spots(plants still growing with brown spots but some were stunted) have either 100% died or been covered in black spots. They look nothing like the brown spots, much smaller like blackspot on a rose. The red wendth did have some spots like this from week two in our house. It spawned a new plant, I chucked the original, it took two months for the new plant to show the spots. The Creeping charlie is gone, leaves curled and died. The spiral plants quit regenerating and turned brownish, any new growth is clear, not green. Removed the hornswort as it shed constantly. Vallisneria rotted off and new shoots are clear, all covered in black. My whole tank is dying, why? Will all my fish die? For Now it's only one fish. She was the smallest from the beginning. Not quite as active. I see zero evidence of the goldfish bullying her. One of the other minnows occasionally goes after her to chase her, but he does that to everyone. Some pest snails have also taken up residence. i was told unless their numbers are large, they are harmless. This has been so much more trouble than it was worth. When I clean it, most of the dirt is all plant waste, not animal. Filters are disgusting in two weeks. Again, when plants and fish were healthy, very little dirt in tank.We cannot afford to start over with yet another new tank and filter and substrate and plants. it took two months to cycle this tank. This guy has never steered me wrong. His shop is so clean, all fish very healthy, none of his plants are turning black and dying.


Please help.
 
Hi Katiestl,
Welcome to the community.

People can rant and rave on occasion. Most people here are really helpful, and caring.

Sometimes though more caring of fish than the fishkeeper. Some are very direct in giving advice.

Brown spots could be from Diatoms.

You have a huge number of questions and issues all in one block.

Some basics will need to be answered.

What kind of light bulb do you have and how long is it on? Often a long tube light will lose it's spectrum/better ability for growing plants and need to be replaced.

What are the parameters of the tank.

Here are a couple threads for fish-in cycling...
Fish-in Cycling: Step over into the dark side - Aquarium Advice

I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice

fishless
The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling - Aquarium Advice

Water parameters?
Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, GH (general hardness), KH (alkalinity /calcium)?
 
I second diatoms??? They will turn plant leaves blackish color.

I'll add......are you using a fertilizer? Liquid or root tabs?
 
It sounds simple to me. When a tank is ‘clean’ it is undisturbed. You have a functioning biological filter. Everything breaks down very quickly to its simplest form (mulm). During the process the plants are being fed.

Sometimes we can damage the biofilter unintentionally by adding certain products, changing too much water and not adding enough dechlorinator, vaccuming the gravel or pulling rooted plants out.

If you damage the biofilter stuff doesn’t break down in the same way and the filter becomes dirty as it clogs with a backlog of partially decaying plant matter. This draws on oxygen and can create spikes in harmful nitrogen. Plants will not grow in a tank like this.

Guess what you have to do now? Resist the urge to intervene and wait it out. Leave the aquarium undisturbed until the biofilter returns. Once that happens things will start chugging along again.

In future trim plants. No need to uproot unless absolutely necessary. When you trim this is a form of nutrient export and can help reduce the amount of water changes you do. It sounds to me like you went through a period of instability when getting rid of plants and may have been doing too much all at once.
 
Thanks for answering:


OK--So the fish is now worse, she lies on her side at the bottom, struggling to get to the top to eat? Again, I've been waiting out aquarium problems since June. So, yes I believe diatoms are what he said. They originally only affected the glass/rocks. Then, I noticed a brownish orange color on plants. I had gorgeous plants that were growing so fast I had to trim once a week. They are all low-light plants that Aqua guy said would not need much in the way of fertilizer. My research showed the same. he said maybe an iron supplement. If I can keep orchids alive, this should not be this hard. So, the red wendth had black spots first, all other plants healthy for 3 months until I noticed brownish orange on the creeping charlie. The plants slowly died off. Leaves fell off, new ones grew in stunted. The spiral plant is Echinodorus and started having the blades turn orange brown, not as in dying, but covered in stuff. Slowly it began to lose green color, they quit sprouting new plants. The anubias slowly became shaded with rust colored patches. It is rooted to a log, I never disturb it. Only it, the vallisneria, Echinodorus and Wendth have true roots. The other plants are floating and all have the same problem. Root systems are well established on all plants. The healthiest Echinodorus has been uprooted by a jerk goldfish 3 times and is the healthiest plant in there.

My tank is a 20 gallon tall. The light is Current Freshwater LED, I have a glass top. I set the light to UV or white/red for about 8 hours a day. No sunlight hits the tank now, room is northwest, not very bright. The moss from the log is attaching to my glass, which is annoying, but the brown spots are much less than before. I did find some under the gravel. I can't really clean it.


I have 3 gold WhiteCloud Minnows.
2 Cory and 2 small comets.

All fish get along fine. A few pest snails are also in there, but everyone has told me they will only destroy plants if there are large numbers. All plants and fish(except goldfish) are from the same store. All plants looked healthy when purchased and grew quickly for months. The new grass has been destroyed and quickly breaks off and dies as soon as it sprouts.



I only have tests for Nitrite/Nitrate/ammonia. I use Ph neutralizer for my dechlorinator, so in theory, that should be fine. It always tests normal at aqua store. My nitrates run high, I can't seem to change this. Right now they're between a 20-40, usually they run 10-20. Nitrites are zero as is Ammonia(blue and yellow on tests). Water changes make Nitrates worse, so they aren't the answer. I just changed 40% water three days ago. Neutral Regulator is what our store uses for dechlorinator, so we did too. They said its impossible to overdo it. I added it to all water placed back into the tank.
I keep the thermometer at 72.5. Without it, the water stays room temp at 71.5. I only upped the temp for the Cory fish.


The tank is cycled, I can't lower Nitrates. Our tap water is neither hard nor soft here--according to plumbers.
 
Changing the position of the tank away from the window did change the light it was getting. Healthy plants use up more nutrients/ fish waste than dying decaying ones.
 
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I'm not sure at all what the last post meant. Yes, I moved the tank 4 months ago as the brown spots first appeared in areas that sunlight hit. And? It did nothing, they already established. It was clear to me that the sunlight caused the spots. I had a beautiful clear tank with healthy plants. Plus, I have a light on the tan that is perfectly suited to growing plants. Plus, I have low light plants. They were trimmed and cared for.



No one has responded to anything else I wrote when they asked questions, so this forum is about as useful as other fish forums. This is not bio filter related cycling. I didn't pull plants, they all died and floated to the top or disintegrated into a million pieces. I do not think the black spots are diatoms, whatever the larger brown/rust spots were(I was told those were diatoms), the corys ate them. Again, all plants are dying, not cycling. Evey blade of grass has disintergrated and broken off. The new growth stopped months ago. I stuck a new floating plant in and it is dying. All new growth that had already occurred turned clear and "melted" away into nothing. The filter is disgusting and full of black plant matter--not fish poop. The first few months, the filter didnt even look like it needed to be changed when I changed it. PLease, someone read my previous reply for info. Reading beginner websites isnt going to do anything, I already did all that months ago. Should I just kill the fish? She is dying. This life is a nightmare. I've spent the last month caring for ill relatives, put my dog down 3 days ago and came home to find a dying fish. I need a break here.
 
Sorry but if you don't like the help you are getting and you think the site is useless then why are you still here? People are trying to help you and have no clue what you have done or read in the past. Everyone is starting at the basics and moving from there because that's usually a good way to figure out what's going on with your tank.
 
So you have fish and plant problems........

If your fish are becoming ill then you have water quality issues more than likely. A few questions.....why are you using a pH neutralizer? What is your pH? Is it under 7 and acidic? Swings in pH can harm and or kill fish. Chemical water treatments are tricky because you don't really know if you are dosing exactly the same every time plus other variables that can affect pH and trying to control it. It's why most people find more natural ways to stabilize pH. I wasn't aware that pH neutralizer was a water dechlorinator??? If so what's the brand? I'd suggest using Seachem Prime for your dechlorinator. If you have low pH there's other options to raise it naturally (I'll wait for this answer first).

Second issue.....your plants could be dying from a general lack of nutrients in your water or a lack of fertilizer (micro and macro). I'm no plant expert but I do keep low light plants and I do use liquid fertilizer. You said you have grass?? Most grass that I know of requires high light, C02 and fertilizer to grow. Also, when your plants decay and breakdown in your tank this raises TDS (total dissolved solids). Some fish maybe sensitive to this. This swing of TDS can also make fish ill.

Thirdly, never take the advice of most fish store employees. I did the same when I was new and it took me 6 months to unf*ck myself. Best thing to do is go on forums and ask questions from experienced fish keepers and planted tank keepers. Read articles and books on fish and plants. Understand natural environments of the fish and plants you keep. Grab a book on fish diseases and familiarize yourself with it to know the basics. Know medications to treat disease. The great thing about this hobby is gaining knowledge as you go. There's something to learn from everyone. Just be patient and gain as much knowledge as you can either on your own or on here or similar forums and with books. It's hard for us to automatically know exactly what you've done or not done to your tank without being there with you or even seeing what you got going on.
 
Changing the position of the tank away from the window did change the light bit was getting. Healthy plants use up more nutrients/ fish waste than dying decaying ones.

I'm not sure at all what the last post meant. Yes, I moved the tank 4 months ago as the brown spots first appeared in areas that sunlight hit. And? It did nothing, they already established. It was clear to me that the sunlight caused the spots. I had a beautiful clear tank with healthy plants. Plus, I have a light on the tan that is perfectly suited to growing plants. Plus, I have low light plants. They were trimmed and cared for.



No one has responded to anything else I wrote when they asked questions, so this forum is about as useful as other fish forums. This is not bio filter related cycling. I didn't pull plants, they all died and floated to the top or disintegrated into a million pieces. I do not think the black spots are diatoms, whatever the larger brown/rust spots were(I was told those were diatoms), the corys ate them. Again, all plants are dying, not cycling. Evey blade of grass has disintergrated and broken off. The new growth stopped months ago. I stuck a new floating plant in and it is dying. All new growth that had already occurred turned clear and "melted" away into nothing. The filter is disgusting and full of black plant matter--not fish poop. The first few months, the filter didnt even look like it needed to be changed when I changed it. PLease, someone read my previous reply for info. Reading beginner websites isnt going to do anything, I already did all that months ago. Should I just kill the fish? She is dying. This life is a nightmare. I've spent the last month caring for ill relatives, put my dog down 3 days ago and came home to find a dying fish. I need a break here.

It sounds like a heavy load you have right now, I am sorry it seems there wasn't an answer for the tank.

My comment about moving the tank was that the additional light coming from the window could have caused good growth and algae spots. When moving the tank away from the window if the diatoms were bad, it could decrease plant leaves ability to absorb light and nutrients, coupled with the loss of sunlight as well. Plus a reduction of light causing plants to begin dying.

Dying plants cause water quality issues, which cause fish illnesses.

It is true, at the start, none of us here know if you actually know what cycled means frequently we are told, I cycled my tank and my fish are dying/sick, and we find out the cycle was 24 hours or one week...

The basics are there to help make sure you were able to get as much information as possible and sometimes one realizes they missed a HUGE thing, something like removing and replacing the filter pad and then experiencing a sick fish explosion/ dead fish disaster.

When you have a giant block of text it is not possible to catch each and every question, or to realize which question is the most important.

If the biggest question is what can you do for that one fish, I will re read the beginning and see if there is a clear answer.

Many things generally hold the answer. Moving the tank, change of light, possibly change in food, or not enough water changes to dilute the residual leftovers of food or poop. A fish can become stressed by even one missed pwc if it is in a sensitive way, which can cause a low resistance and illness to take hold. Even a spike in unsafe water parameter or a bully fish or one overfeeding. Can push a fish past a point it can maintain health. That is another reason why we ask more questions as well. To possibly be of better help.
 
Are you using a liquid test kit?

I would recommend finding out what your pH is right now in your tank.

With all the plants melting there is an imbalance. If you have been using a stick test, then just know that it can work fine today and tomorrow even one thing be wrong, as I have happen to me and have a tank of fish die.

As for nitrates, 40 isn't ideal but not usually a tank killer.

When a person gets rid of a big bunch of plants from trimming, it changes the ratio of plants absorbing nutrients like ammonia from food and fish waste, and causes a mini cycle. Where there is more waste than can be processed.

With GF, they eat and excrete waste constantly and will make maintenance a large chore in a small tank. Not screaming at you, but it can not be ignored that 2 new GF in the smaller tank would throw off the amount of BB in the tank with too much to process. If you washed off the filter pad in tap water, it would further kill off BB.

If you suspect swim bladder, you can feed the cooked insides of the round green peas to the fish, and remove uneaten parts after an hour. You can add a tiny drip of liquid from a garlic clove onto the pea parts to flavor it better.

PWC will help dilute the stuff in the water.

But your water might not have any buffering capability and you might have low pH like a pH crash, if it doesn't have any buffer. Which will also kill plants and make them melt. Which would be useful to know about GH/KH, TDS and pH.

It will be hard to get the tank back in order without knowing more about the water parameters.

If the fish seems too ill you of course could euthanize it. If the fish in general are a burden you could find someone to adopt them or return them to the store as a donation. When I had a big family crisis I had to give away a few fish and corals because the pressure and issues I was having were incompatible for the demands of my time. In a tank without fish, you could continue to keep feeding up with fish food to make ammonia, the food for the BB, (and remove all bad plant matter) to keep the cycle going. As an additional option.

I hope things can get back to a general calm for you.
 
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Fish is dead. Died while I was looking up how to euthanize her. Almost all plants are now dead, so glad I waited for them to come back around. (technically newest plant is still alive but looks sick and one other is still fighting, but all covered in black). I removed the Phosguard. The "grass" I have I listed the name of(vallisneria) already, it lists low light in every aquarium guide online. It was on my list of beginner plants. The healthiest plant is the one with the highest light requirements(echidnodorus)--taking the longest to die. My lights are pretty bright anyway. I listed those too. Much brighter than the lights at the aqua store. The sunlight I referred to(as I stated) was filtered light for about 20 minutes per day. The sun moves in the sky throughout the year you see and it never hit the tank(I ran a time lapse video before placing the tank there) when I first started it. As summer went on, the sun changed position, a neighbor tore down a tree and voila, instant sun. The orange spots appeared only in spots the sun hit. I stayed home for an afternoon and went into the room every 15 mintues. Sometime between 530 and 6pm filtered sunlight was hitting the tank. I moved it. It already had plenty of artificial light. The sun was only hitting the front wall and a small portion of the filter in the back.


Sorry, if I get miffed that no one actually reads what I wrote before posting replies. See, I run plenty of these discussions for actual mammals and we respond quickly with adequate info. Unfortunately we have no fish vets here, I cannot very well haul a tank around for people to look at. I already believed the orange spots were diatoms. Store guy stated they would not hurt the fish or plants. He showed me two new tanks he had set up that had them. He said with weekly cleaning, they would go away. He gave me Phosguard to place in the filter and two corys. Orange is gone i think, but black crap is on everything. His whole store uses Neutral Regulator(seachem) as a dechlorinator. he said it's ridiculously safe. It will not cause harm to the fish. He said it will only bring water with bad pH levels back to neutral, it won't mess with the levels if they are already OK. If this isn't true, please let me know. the bottle states nothing about it being unsafe. Per the bottle: it restores pH to neutral from either low or high pH, softens and conditions water, removes chlorine and chloramine and detoxifies ammonia. Sounds fine to me.


I have previously used two other dechlorinators stated by people in fish forums to be good. he said they're awful, had me change to this when problems arose(cloudy disgusting smelling water when initially cycling--his stuff worked).


So again, I assume all other fish will die. I looked for marks on the dead fish and only found a couple of black dots on her body that have been there either the whole time or since July. They were symmetrical, so I'm betting it was her color. Another minnow I have noticed has marks on its body. very faint, but there. They look potentially problematic. again these fish are small and they move fast, so hard to look at. I could think this is disease, but she had no marks like this. Her tail was partially missing by the time she died but it was there yesterday.



The plants. Lack of fertilizer shouldn't cause mass death with black spots. the red wendth had spots initially, but these are far more prolific. The plants wastes away. It turns clear, fall into pieces and dies. Also the moss from the log is growing on the glass, is that normal? I thought it was algae, but it grows tiny tufts that look identical to the stuff on the log. Is that killing the other plants? None of this makes sense. I had a perfect tank for 8 weeks and then it fell apart. Again the fish store's plant all look beautiful and healthy. My tank killed everything.



Should I give all the fish back, apparently I kill everything that comes home now. We have to put our rabbit down in the next couple of days. I literally have nothing left.


I was planning to upgrade to a larger tank when the goldfish got bigger. Again, as a child I had 6 goldfish in a ten gallon tank. No water testing and the fish lived for years. In fact, most only died after the biggest one ate them. The most I could afford to do now is upgrade to a 29 gallon, but I can't use anything in this tank lest I poison it. I water change every other week. If people here are stating I move too much with water changes but I need to do it more often, how does that make sense? What I see during cleaning isn't fish poop--it's dead plants. For the two months everything was perfect, the filter was still clean when I removed it after a month, now at 3 weeks it is clogged.
 
None of us are fish vets, that I am aware of.

What is the pH, GH/KH TDS.

Even with all information, you might not have an answer.

Water quality is a problem, since it does not stay the same at points in fish keeping, there would be NO way for us to say at any point in time what the parameters are or were, and just because you relate what it is presently, doesn't say what it was.

What it WAS any number of times could have been the issue.

What does your fish guy who has always steered you in the right direction say is going on?

I am sorry to hear about your rabbit. Life looks very tough for you.

You have been shared with a number of ideas. And asked for additional information. Perhaps you do not know the answers of all the questions. But with out some of the things like water parameters, amounts and frequency of water changes, it makes it difficult to answer.

As you mentioned you can't just hold up the tank and show each of us the tank and issues. So we rely on the feedback.

You mention that water changes make the nitrates worse. It can be because of muck in the substrate getting kicked up, and it could be vac'd.

Saying that you use pH regulator and that should be fine is not answering what the pH actually is.

Not having any kH can mean your tank isn't able to buffer., etc. So it is important details.

Having very high TDS can affect fish. This can happen by products that are added, not changing enough water and topping off water after evaporation with tap water containing more solids.

Reverse osmosis/ deionized water (or distilled) is good for adding back for evaporation.



Try and take a sample to the fish store and see if they can get you TDS, pH and all the other parameters.



What is your substrate?

I am not familiar with using neutral regulator as the standard of treating water.
 
Well we still don't know what your current water readings are to know even the basics of what you are dealing with and what your fish and plants are living in. These readings can swing from day to day in an uncycled tank.

If you were advised to keep your pH at 7.0 (neutral) by your store employee for goldfish then he has already advised you wrong. Goldfish need alkaline water or harder water than neutral. Again, using chemicals to alter pH will cause swings and can kill or harm your fish.

If you were told Seachem Prime is a bad dechlorinator then you were told wrong. If your tank was smelly during cycling it was because of the ammonia present during the nitrification process. This is normal and you can remove the smell by doing water changes to lower the ammonia, not adding chemicals. There's no need to add chemicals for cycling a tank. There's no need to alter pH to cycle a tank. If your water has a higher pH it's fine for goldfish. It's fine for most fish as they adapt to higher pH levels.

If you are doing a fish in cycle you should be testing the water daily to every other day with a liquid test kit. You should be keeping the ammonia level at .25 ppm. If it goes higher than this then do water changes until it's back down to .25 ppm or lower. If this means you are doing water changes every 2-3 days to keep the levels in an acceptable range then so be it. Nitrite shouldn't be over .25 ppm but 0 is ideal.

TDS, as Autumn stated and I've inquired about days ago, can affect health. Generally, anything at or below 400 ppm is ok for most fish.

Bottom line is something is going on with the quality of your water. It's why you have algae, fish death, and plants dying. So water readings as we have asked for is step 1. Whatever chemicals you add to your water in relation to your tested water readings is step 2. We haven't even began step 1.
 
Well. none of that really helped. I have gone to aquarium pros and they don't get it. The stores are quite a bit more helpful than forums as they haven't even tried selling me anything. I stick to local stores who benefit from me having a healthy aquarium. Sorry, but not one person online has found the problem or offered a solution--they have. The plants are getting too much light. Everyone has said to cut back light. I'm sorry I ever mentioned that I moved the tank--I want to assure everyone who has responded that this may be the cause that the problems occurred all months before I moved the tank. The tank was IN SUNLIGHT. It was getting too much light. I moved the tank 2 feet--that's it. Just to remove the 15 minutes of light it was getting--this helped a lot at first, then I got a brighter light and low and behold the algae returned. It is black algae.



My main problem is algae. Always has been. All other levels in tank are normal I've tested everything. So, if you have a question about a level other than Phosphate or pH--the answer is normal. My high light plants are still alive, low light plants have died.



I have solved the problem on my own but at the same time have no solution. Every test is normal save for two:


1. My pH is at 7.5. This is after treating with neutral regulator. Our water in the St. Louis area is alkaline. Around 8.5-9. Tons of people here have fish so I know they aren't importing water. I even had various store employees test their water and show me the pH--it's a little high and most places aren't using neutral regulator. I am. Thwe water from our faucet is as high as test can go. The regulator pulls it to 7.4.


2. I have added plant food--they started regrowing leaves.



3. The problem is the phosphates--they are as high as possible. The neutral regulator is the cause.


So can someone please tell me, how the hell can I lower the pH without neutral regulator? I have phosguard to remove phosphates, but until i stop feeding the tank with new phosphates--I'm screwed.
 
As I said before, fish adapt to pH. I don't know why you want to alter your pH. My tanks run between 8.4-8.6. I keep fish that like lightly acidic to neutral pH....technically. I also keep plants. I only use Seachem Prime for a dechlorinator and liquid fertilizer for my plants.

If I remember right your tank wasn't cycled. So your water chemistry is/was out of balance which causes algae. There's a lot of reasons you can get algae. Lack of water flow in the tank can cause algae.

If you are using fertilizers, that can add phosphates. It also raises your TDS.

You talked to the pros...... and they gave you a product that blew your phosphates out the roof and caused havoc in your tank. Here.....we don't blindly offer products without advising the potential problems.

Anywho, I'm guessing that me telling you your pH is ok isn't going to fly with you. I'm not a pro but here's some things to try.........mix your water 50/50 tap and RO water, add C02 system to your tank, add almond leaves to your tank, add mopani driftwood, add Peat moss to your filter and let the water circulate through it.
 
Sounds like we just aren't qualified to help you. Never understood someone coming to a forum for help and then belittling the people that do try to help. Oh well. Seems like you have everything figured out and don't need us. Good luck with the tank.
 
Out of interest read through and really must agree there is a lot of experienced help on forums who are trying their darn'est to help. For the fish death I'm hoping that is was stress related in some way (e.g. always a week fish and lots going on in tank) and that the others will settle down. Post back if other fish start to go the same way - at a guess it would either be stress related or bacterial. I'm reading through a book now on illustrated guide to fish diseases and it can be very, very difficult - unfortunately fish can't tell us much. I'm also sorry to hear of your rabbit.
 
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