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Old 07-22-2008, 06:32 PM   #1
lilpete777
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Require this forums' Infinite wisdom!!

First off let me say hello to everyone on this forum! I've been coming here for the past couple of months for help in everything from correct cycling, water changes, etc. But now i need your help!

Recently 2 of my fish (I forgot what species they are) have been "flashing" or rubbing against objects in my tank. I have a 20 gal tank that was host to numerous tropical fish that have unfortunately passed away to fishy heaven. Now 4 adults and 1 baby remain. I have also noticed that one of the fish, that is not flashing, has a white spot on its tail (red Box). My mind immediately jumped to Ich but no other fish have exhibited the same signs nor has there been any other spots appearing on the same fish. One of the two fish that is flashing now has its dorsal fin clamped tight and is constantly at the top gasping for air (one in the blue box). I have attached pictures (excuse the blur) that shows this. If anyone can help please let me know! Thank you in advance!

Tank specs:
- 20 Gal
- Carbon Bio-Filter
-Ammonia 0, pH 7.2
- Recently vacuumed gravel and changed 75% of water due to algae outbreak
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN1256.jpg (36.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1251.jpg (35.6 KB, 5 views)

Last edited by lilpete777; 07-22-2008 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:17 PM   #2
jsoong
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Flashing & clamped fins = external parasite. If that white spot is ich like (hard to tell from the pic) I'd start treatment. <Actually, I'd treat for external parasites regardless if that flashing & clamped fins persists.>

Sometimes ich can be in the gills & show no spots, this may account for the gasping at the surface.

Finally, I assume that your tank is fully cycled? In any case, maintaining perfect water conditions is a must when dealing with illness.
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Old 07-25-2008, 03:26 PM   #3
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Hey jsoong,

Thanks for the reply. Yeah i was doing some research and i found out that indeed these are signs of Ich. I read that a way of treating for Ich, other then direct medication, is to increase the water temp to at or above 86F. But i read that platies like it around 79F so would increasing it that high cause anything negative to happen? i know that with higher temps comes lesser oxygen content in the water so aeration of the water will need to take place. But i'm worried that they might not support that high of a temp.

As far as the tank being completely cycled, i have to admit that i was a little rushed in putting the fish in after doing the water change. However i test for nitrates and ammonia and they all seem to be in a good range. I have had the tank for nearly 6 months now and have done numerous water changes so I'm guessing that might be the culprit due to increase stress.

Thanks again for your help everyone!
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:01 PM   #4
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The platies won't mind the temporary increase in temp. Increase it slowly to 87 (or 88 ) degrees. Be sure that you have an air stone in the tank. If you don't, reduce the height of the water so the filter splashes into the tank. Keep it that way for at least two weeks after the last sign of ich goes away.

What are the Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia levels?
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Old 07-25-2008, 10:57 PM   #5
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First let me thank you for responding so fast. I don't have my tester kit since i let my friend borrow it since he's suspecting he has ammonia poisoning. But ill do a water change tomorrow. How much should i do? 20%-30% alright?

Also now the fish prefers to rest at the bottom of the tank. But she still comes up to eat (and boy does she eat!!) and always greets me when i walk by the tank. I am afraid that the water won't reach optimum levels in time!! But i am hopeful and i have a feeling she will pull through stronger. Thanks again
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Old 07-26-2008, 03:57 PM   #6
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Definitely keep up with the regular water change schedule. 30% is fine. Since you don't know the exact values, I'd go with a 30% change.

Take a sample of your water to the lfs and ask them to do an Ammonia, Nitrite, and nitrate test using a liquid reagent kit (no strips). Get the exact values, not just "they are fine". If your Ammonia and Nitrite are both 0 and you have present Nitrates, then your tank is cycled and you have optimum levels. Unless of course you have high Nitrates (>30).
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