EscVelocity
Aquarium Advice Activist
Corries don't tolerate salt well at all, and can stress them. It can kill them.
sick corries
- Thread starter Da Squid
- Start date
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Da Squid
Aquarium Advice Freak
Ok, its been a few weeks now and my remaining 3 corries have seemed to perk up a bit. The only change in the tank has been going the high tec planted route. I suspect that since I have many tall fast growing plants now that are creating large patches of shade everywhere, the corries are less stressed and having a much easier time rooting around for food.
Just a though in case anyone finds this thread while researching a similar problem. If all else fails, try lots of shade!
Just a though in case anyone finds this thread while researching a similar problem. If all else fails, try lots of shade!
Da Squid
Aquarium Advice Freak
Sorry to keep harping on this subject, but I keep running into trouble! My remaining three corries were doing great, so I picked up three beautiful spotted corries a few weeks ago along with 4 marigold swordtails. I lost one fish from each group within about 4 days of tank entry, but the remaining ones looked very strong and healthy.
Swordtails continue to thrive and pump out babies, but the reamaining two spotted cories are showing the oddest behavior. They stay in the tall plants and perch like little monkies! I rarely see them running along the ground. One of them has gills that are always in overdrive and he floats sideways or upside down. Every time I think he's dead he perks up and starts acting normal again. I stopped using the EI method of fertalizing to keep my nitrates down to around 15 or 20 but that doesnt seem to be making a big difference in their health. I tried feeding extra catfish food, but this has only resulted in a snail surge.
PH is 6.4ish, temp is 74ish. I've notice a possible slight raise in ammonia since I cleaned out the cannister filter last weekend. Its slight enough that it could even be my imagination, but the yellow color doesnt seem as yellow as it should be. Tanks is heavily planted with CO2
The two new corries really seem to be fighting to stay alive. Any ideas on how I can help them?
Swordtails continue to thrive and pump out babies, but the reamaining two spotted cories are showing the oddest behavior. They stay in the tall plants and perch like little monkies! I rarely see them running along the ground. One of them has gills that are always in overdrive and he floats sideways or upside down. Every time I think he's dead he perks up and starts acting normal again. I stopped using the EI method of fertalizing to keep my nitrates down to around 15 or 20 but that doesnt seem to be making a big difference in their health. I tried feeding extra catfish food, but this has only resulted in a snail surge.
PH is 6.4ish, temp is 74ish. I've notice a possible slight raise in ammonia since I cleaned out the cannister filter last weekend. Its slight enough that it could even be my imagination, but the yellow color doesnt seem as yellow as it should be. Tanks is heavily planted with CO2
The two new corries really seem to be fighting to stay alive. Any ideas on how I can help them?
Da Squid
Aquarium Advice Freak
The struggling spotted cory finally died today. In a way it's nice to not have to worry about him anymore. I know someone would have answered me by now if they had any ideas, but I still gotta keep asking. Why don't corries like my tank? 
dkpate
Aquarium Advice Addict
I have been looking to see if I can help you at all, and I found this. Not sure if it helps or not, but I will keep looking too. Good luck!
Chilodonella
Symptoms: Dulling of the colors due to excessive slime, fraying of the fins, weakness, gill damage
The symptoms of Chilodonella includes changed (heavy) breathing, excessive secretion of [COLOR=black! important][COLOR=black! important]mucus[/COLOR][/COLOR] that makes the skin of the fish look cloudy, clamped fins, loss of appetite and scratching against aquarium decoration. You can also observe a general loss of virility in infected fish causing them to act more lethargically. In severe cases the fish moves away from the rest of the [COLOR=black! important][COLOR=black! important]fish[/COLOR][/COLOR] and hides somewhere. It should however be said that a fish can seem healthy long after being infected by Chilodonella and the disease can often already have caused serious damage to the fish when the symptoms start to appear.
Chilodonella tolerates a wider variety of different water temperatures than many other parasites and ore often found in colder waters.
The disease is as I said earlier easy to treat once diagnosed and can be cured with a wide variety of treatments ranging from commercial Chilodonella medicine to treating the water with (or bathing the fish in) [COLOR=black! important][COLOR=black! important]potassium[/COLOR][/COLOR] permanganate, formalin, malachite, copper or salt. It should be said that some fish and other aquarium animals are sensitive to salt and/or copper and those methods should not be used if you keep such fish. Research your fish to find out if it is sensitive to salt or copper. Examples of salt sensitive fish are certain catfish species and freshwater rays.
Chilodonella
Symptoms: Dulling of the colors due to excessive slime, fraying of the fins, weakness, gill damage
The symptoms of Chilodonella includes changed (heavy) breathing, excessive secretion of [COLOR=black! important][COLOR=black! important]mucus[/COLOR][/COLOR] that makes the skin of the fish look cloudy, clamped fins, loss of appetite and scratching against aquarium decoration. You can also observe a general loss of virility in infected fish causing them to act more lethargically. In severe cases the fish moves away from the rest of the [COLOR=black! important][COLOR=black! important]fish[/COLOR][/COLOR] and hides somewhere. It should however be said that a fish can seem healthy long after being infected by Chilodonella and the disease can often already have caused serious damage to the fish when the symptoms start to appear.
Chilodonella tolerates a wider variety of different water temperatures than many other parasites and ore often found in colder waters.
The disease is as I said earlier easy to treat once diagnosed and can be cured with a wide variety of treatments ranging from commercial Chilodonella medicine to treating the water with (or bathing the fish in) [COLOR=black! important][COLOR=black! important]potassium[/COLOR][/COLOR] permanganate, formalin, malachite, copper or salt. It should be said that some fish and other aquarium animals are sensitive to salt and/or copper and those methods should not be used if you keep such fish. Research your fish to find out if it is sensitive to salt or copper. Examples of salt sensitive fish are certain catfish species and freshwater rays.
dkpate
Aquarium Advice Addict
Found this too:
Neon Disease (Sporozoasis)
S: This incurable disease can affect characins, Cyprinds, and cichlids. The disease can manifest itself in several ways. Symptoms vary, and can include a loss of color, emaciation, and the loss of equilibrium causing fish to swim in an erratic, jerky manner. An infected specimen will wander from its school. The body may become a milky, opaque color.
A: Since this disease is not treatable, the best way to prevent its spread is to immediately remove the affected fish, and destroy it. Disinfect the tank after removing other fish.
Neon Disease (Sporozoasis)
S: This incurable disease can affect characins, Cyprinds, and cichlids. The disease can manifest itself in several ways. Symptoms vary, and can include a loss of color, emaciation, and the loss of equilibrium causing fish to swim in an erratic, jerky manner. An infected specimen will wander from its school. The body may become a milky, opaque color.
A: Since this disease is not treatable, the best way to prevent its spread is to immediately remove the affected fish, and destroy it. Disinfect the tank after removing other fish.
Blueiz
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Your temperature is on to low for tropicals. Since you describe the gills as moving fast and the cories spending time in mid tank instead of where they normally are on the bottom, the o2 saturation could be low in the tank. Im guessing since you run co2 and a cannister filter that you are relying on the plants to oxygenate the water. Do you still have the lotsa shade plant?
What are the tank mates.
The fish could have also came in weak, or even with a disease. Do you typically put fish straight in your tank, or do you QT?
What are the tank mates.
The fish could have also came in weak, or even with a disease. Do you typically put fish straight in your tank, or do you QT?
Da Squid
Aquarium Advice Freak
Thanks dkpate, I hadn't considered looking for a disease but I'll be sure to read up on those tonight when I have some free time.
To answer your questions Blueiz, I do rely on the plants to oxygenate and while the other fish in the tank are all active and not gasping for air, perhaps the oxygen is just low enough to upset the corries? I could adjust my cannister output to disrupt the surface just a little bit to experiment. Yes, there are lots of shady spots and the corries do tend to congrate in them during the day.
Tank mates are 3 small marigold swords, ten neons, two small SAE's, a mess of fry and snails, and four black mollies. none of the fish are in any way aggresive, though the black mollies are very aggresive eaters. The second they inhale all the flake food they dive down and go after all the catfish wafers. I think I overfeed a bit to ensure the other fish get a chance, which is probably why my snail population is getting out of control.
I'm no expert, but the fish seemed healthy enough when they entered my tank. I acclimate them with the bag method but no, sadly a QT tank is not yet in the budget.
To answer your questions Blueiz, I do rely on the plants to oxygenate and while the other fish in the tank are all active and not gasping for air, perhaps the oxygen is just low enough to upset the corries? I could adjust my cannister output to disrupt the surface just a little bit to experiment. Yes, there are lots of shady spots and the corries do tend to congrate in them during the day.
Tank mates are 3 small marigold swords, ten neons, two small SAE's, a mess of fry and snails, and four black mollies. none of the fish are in any way aggresive, though the black mollies are very aggresive eaters. The second they inhale all the flake food they dive down and go after all the catfish wafers. I think I overfeed a bit to ensure the other fish get a chance, which is probably why my snail population is getting out of control.
I'm no expert, but the fish seemed healthy enough when they entered my tank. I acclimate them with the bag method but no, sadly a QT tank is not yet in the budget.
dkpate
Aquarium Advice Addict
My BGK is a hog also, so what I have to do is feed the DG by hand, and he is one happy camper now! Not sure if you would be able to do this with a corey, but maybe it's worth a try!
Blueiz
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Sounds like you are doing everything right. Are you getting, or have you gotten all of your cories from the same source? I dont' recall seeing the name of what type you have either, can you post that, sorry if I missed it.
Da Squid
Aquarium Advice Freak
I've gotten them from two different sources, both respectable in my area. My first buy was 8 corries that I think I've identified as emerald. One died every 4 days or so until there were only 3 left, but the 3 remaining are doing fine now.
When it looked like the trouble was over, I bought three spotted corries. One died a week later, then the other one died a few days ago. The last one's gills are still going at an incredible rate, though at least he spends most of his time at the bottom of the tank.
When it looked like the trouble was over, I bought three spotted corries. One died a week later, then the other one died a few days ago. The last one's gills are still going at an incredible rate, though at least he spends most of his time at the bottom of the tank.
Blueiz
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Ask these stores what there sources are, there is a good chance that they get fish in from the same company. I know that I had purchased an oscar from my ls and it did poorly, everything checked out in my tanks so I mentioned it at the lfs the next time I was in. I was asking him when he may be getting more in and he told me that the company he gets his fish from was having problems with there oscars at the time so he wouldn't be getting anymore in for a while from that source.
Another thing to find out form the lfs is what there water parameters are and see if yours are a close match.
I mentioned the low temp before, o2 saturation is higher at cooler temps, so that should cross out the concern about not getting enough o2.
What do you put in your tanks when you do a water change or for ferts? Since the usual stuff seems to check out ok, looking for something more in depth.
You could just be like me where snails are concerned, I cant keep them alive for more than a month..lol.
Another thing to find out form the lfs is what there water parameters are and see if yours are a close match.
I mentioned the low temp before, o2 saturation is higher at cooler temps, so that should cross out the concern about not getting enough o2.
What do you put in your tanks when you do a water change or for ferts? Since the usual stuff seems to check out ok, looking for something more in depth.
You could just be like me where snails are concerned, I cant keep them alive for more than a month..lol.
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