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Old 08-24-2006, 11:20 PM   #31
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No progress tonight. Instead we got a Great Dane visiting us.

We're going to foster him for a week, then decide if we're going to keep him long term.

By the way, he's huge, and I have a small house. He's very sedate though, the tail hasn't kocked anything over yet. The accidental head butt on the stairs definately gave me pause.
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:58 AM   #32
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Ok Pressley is settled in enough to stop following me for every trip to the basement and doesn't seem to mind the sound of power tools.

I figured it would be easier to install the flashing and ballast with the box partially dissasembled. The grounding wire is pinned between the ballast and the flashing.



After that I got the main wiring completed. FYI, #6x3/4 screws probably would be ideal for mouning the end caps, I had #8s, and it was a tight squeze, difficult to adjust.



Fully assembled box:


Unfortunately, it only lit very dimly. I have to look at the wiring diagrams again, I recall something about splicing the wires together instead of putting them into the end caps directly as I did.

I'm severely wishing I had not cut the wires so short. I've already had to put in one extra splice because of my cutting a wire too short.
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Old 08-27-2006, 12:52 PM   #33
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what do u mean lit dimly? my first attempt at a DIY light had the same result. but itwas not due to bad wiring. if u wired it wrong it simply wont work at all. if it is lit dimly it is normally becasue the ballast cant start the bulbs. what is written exactly on the top of the ballast? the problem may be that it cant support the bulbs u have put in.
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Old 08-27-2006, 06:48 PM   #34
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The ballast is a 4F32T8, it should be able to handle it. I think I see what I did wrong. There are two valid configurations. Splice all wires together and redistribute to both pins, or put a red and a blue on each pin instead of two red on a pin and two blue on a pin. The short between the reds or between the blues is probably confusing the ballast into putting out the wrong current.

Now I have to figure out how to get the wires out of the end caps. In was really easy and secure.

If that doesn't work, I read something about the conductive reflector helps start the bulbs, so maybe I'll add M reflectors. The M reflector will be closer to the bulb and have more of an effect.
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Old 08-27-2006, 08:01 PM   #35
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to get them out u have to pop off the back of the end cap and use something thin like a paper clip to lift up the little tab that is holding the wire. i had to do this a few times and it is no fun.
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Old 08-27-2006, 08:13 PM   #36
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I'm just going to buy another pair of end caps. $3 won't break me. I struggled with the little plastic tab and mauled it.
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Old 08-28-2006, 02:40 PM   #37
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I 've removed the wires with steady pressure while turning, but its hard.

The electronic ballasts I use are "instant start" and I belive you have wired it wrong. If it is designed for four bulbs ( it looks like it is in your picture) and you are indeed overdriving two, it should be wired..... both red wires to one end of bulb one, and one yellow wire to the other end of bulb one. Both blue wires to one end of bulb two, and the second yellow wire to the other end of bulb two. (no need for jumpers).

I hope that is clear.
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Old 08-28-2006, 03:22 PM   #38
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I'm also driving two short bulbs in sierial in place of one long bulb, so it's more like wiring 4 outputs to one bulb. In this case I usually see a red and a blue on each side of one endcap, and both yellows to the other end.
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Old 08-28-2006, 03:57 PM   #39
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That may be part of the problem!!!! Im confused, thats not the way it looks in your last picture.

I don't think you can overdrive 3 bulbs with that transformer.

I think you should try it with just the two bulbs, ( you'll like it )
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Old 08-28-2006, 05:39 PM   #40
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It is only two bulbs. The two bulbs are in serial. The two 18" bulbs should get detected as one 36" bulb.
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