20 Gallon Long design, In-wall system

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d9hp

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
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Location
North Carolina
This is what I have been doing for the last 30 minutes. I want to know what wont work, what will work, and how I can make it better. I dont know which will take longer to write out :? but lets hope it looks fine. This is for my freind, and after he sets it up I might have a go at it as well. We still dont know which return pump to use either. Please just make comments and whatnot.
 
That is a good design, and if all passages stay clear, will work great. I am in the process of designing one also... problem is, I am having to implement it while the tank is already setup. :roll:
 
That is a good design, and if all passages stay clear, will work great

Ahhh, a 3000 lb weight just got lifted an inch from my shoulders. Just need some more folks to chime in before I feel ok. There will be strainers on all the overflows.
 
I think I would have pretty much the same comment as Timbo, except that I'd be even more afraid of the "as long as passages stay clear".

The scenario I fret (in designs I keep tossing through my head) are what happens when the overflow stops (for what ever reason)?

If there is nothing there to limit how much water the return pump can pump back to the tank, then your main tank will eventually flood.

Two possible solutions are a float switch for the return pump (stops the pump if the water level gets too low) or an overflow/baffle in the sump but the drawback to that is that the pump will run dry once the sump water level drops below the overflow/baffle.

I'd suggest a float switch to kill the pump in the off chance your overflows stop. Cause that's what I've just decided I'm going to do with my dream system :D

BTW... we want pictures when this is set up!! :)
 
Ok I made another design, im not sure how to make this one work. I was told that having the fuge go to the sump afterwards will kill all the pods, although I am using it for macro growth and the DSB, not really anything else. Here it is anyways. How would I get the water from the fuge back into the tank without lots of bubbles?
 
another thought... the problem with a float switch is that you have to keep on top of your water top offs as too much evaporation will also trigger your float switch... (this is why i can never decide which way to go)

what we need is a FLOW switch that can be put in line with the overflow plumbing. Flow stops, the pump stops!

[google...] [google...]

SWEET! they make them!

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/HTDOCS/pdffiles/cat/flow/P5_cat.pdf
dunno if we'd want that exact one, but at least we know they exist!
 
its not working, hmm. I wanted to do this with my existing tank, just turn one upside down, and stick it in the main tank. I also want to put a float switch for autotop off
 
i'm not a salty, but i like diy projects...

some potential problems I see

1> having both tank overflows drain into the fuge ... depending on how many GPH your return pump is pushing, are you concerned about violent currents / whirlpool effect of having all the water dumping into a 10 gal refuge without any baffles?

2> you show your drain lines being connected by a tee ... as I understand it, this will create backpressure on your drains, seriously decreasing the their flow rate.

3> the only way for water to get out of the fuge and back to the tank is by the gravity drain that connects them? ... what happens if this clogs with algae or debris ... does the drain have enough flow to support both drains from the main tank?

-----

in regards to that paddle flow switch being put inline with an overflow drain.

I do not believe that would work ... look at the pressure rating on that thing 3600 PSI! ... the water flowing down a gravity powered overflow drain, you would be lucky if you saw 10 psi

putting a float switch in the main tank to watch for low water wouldn't be any help, since by the time the switch noticed the low water level, all the water will have been spilled somewhere already.

putting a float switch in the main tank to watch for a high water level might help, since then turning off the pump will prevent the display tank from overflowing, but might make the sump overflow

float switches in the sump would serve similar purposes with similar problems

the best way to deal with it is have the system balanced so the sump can take in however much water the tank might drop during a power failure. also, have the display tank's water level such that it can absorb however much water the sump can deliver if the overflows get clogged and is not draining.

just my 2 dollars (heh, 2 cents isn't anything these days!)
 
btw - moved to the DIY forum ... since this is clearly a DIY project

This is actually one of those instances where it might be beneficial to have a second post running in the SW forum. Some SW enthusiasts (like me) do not venture in the DIY forum too much, cause every time we try a DIY project we end up injuring ourselves and buying the durn thing anyway :lol:
 
understood ... I selected the option to leave a mirror in the s/w forum - is that sufficient?

Guess you or I can move it back - was just trying to keep things tidy ;)
 
If your worried about the tank overflowing there are overflow switches for a/c condensate overflow pans that shut off the a/c if an overflow occurs. They are small and could be placed at the back of the tank to shut off the pump if the water level in the tank raises to much. I'm not sure of how they work, but I always figured when I had a sump I would try to figure out how to use one.

Here is a link for one made by little giant http://www.littlegiant.com/LittleGiant/comcat.nsf/0/9813f9887705f4e486256701006ec0af?OpenDocument
 
Ok, sorry I could not get back here, I was in the mountains in a tennis tournament. I am going to have 2 overflows in the fuge, one slightly above the other in case of disaster. The overflow into the fuge will actually be on the far side of the tank, furthest from the overflows. It will have a 90 degree elbow facing the glass, which should slow it down a bit.
 
Scratch that, the good guys over at reeffreaks gave me some more ideas, here is the newest plan.
 
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