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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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20 Gallon Long design, In-wall system
This is what I have been doing for the last 30 minutes. I want to know what wont work, what will work, and how I can make it better. I dont know which will take longer to write out
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#2 |
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That is a good design, and if all passages stay clear, will work great. I am in the process of designing one also... problem is, I am having to implement it while the tank is already setup.
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#3 | |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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Quote:
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#4 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Moderator Emeritus
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I think I would have pretty much the same comment as Timbo, except that I'd be even more afraid of the "as long as passages stay clear".
The scenario I fret (in designs I keep tossing through my head) are what happens when the overflow stops (for what ever reason)? If there is nothing there to limit how much water the return pump can pump back to the tank, then your main tank will eventually flood. Two possible solutions are a float switch for the return pump (stops the pump if the water level gets too low) or an overflow/baffle in the sump but the drawback to that is that the pump will run dry once the sump water level drops below the overflow/baffle. I'd suggest a float switch to kill the pump in the off chance your overflows stop. Cause that's what I've just decided I'm going to do with my dream system [acronym:5dddc7837e="By the way"]BTW[/acronym:5dddc7837e]... we want pictures when this is set up!!
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#5 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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Ok I made another design, im not sure how to make this one work. I was told that having the fuge go to the sump afterwards will kill all the [acronym:81e89b823a="copepods, amphipods, etc"]pods[/acronym:81e89b823a], although I am using it for macro growth and the [acronym:81e89b823a="Deep Sand Bed"]DSB[/acronym:81e89b823a], not really anything else. Here it is anyways. How would I get the water from the fuge back into the tank without lots of bubbles?
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Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in there shoes! That way, when you do criticize them, you are a mile away and have their shoes. http://members.lycos.co.uk/d9hp/yarrrr%20ahab-kid.jpg Would you like to join the North Carolina regional forum? Click Here! |
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#6 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Moderator Emeritus
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another thought... the problem with a float switch is that you have to keep on top of your water top offs as too much evaporation will also trigger your float switch... (this is why i can never decide which way to go)
what we need is a FLOW switch that can be put in line with the overflow plumbing. Flow stops, the pump stops! [google...] [google...] SWEET! they make them! http://www.dwyer-inst.com/HTDOCS/pdf...low/P5_cat.pdf dunno if we'd want that exact one, but at least we know they exist!
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#7 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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its not working, hmm. I wanted to do this with my existing tank, just turn one upside down, and stick it in the main tank. I also want to put a float switch for autotop off
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Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in there shoes! That way, when you do criticize them, you are a mile away and have their shoes. http://members.lycos.co.uk/d9hp/yarrrr%20ahab-kid.jpg Would you like to join the North Carolina regional forum? Click Here! |
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#8 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Moderator Emeritus
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thats ok, I found a better flow switch. the one pictured is brass, but it also comes in stainless. Handles 50 VA, (50 Watt, 250 VAC, 1.5 A) with a 5 foot cord! everything you need all in one!
of course you'd like the link... http://www.metexcorporation.com/Kobold/psr.html
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#9 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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can you give me a diff. link, this one isnt working
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Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in there shoes! That way, when you do criticize them, you are a mile away and have their shoes. http://members.lycos.co.uk/d9hp/yarrrr%20ahab-kid.jpg Would you like to join the North Carolina regional forum? Click Here! |
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#10 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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works for me...
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