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Old 11-13-2014, 04:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mebbid View Post
No, I don't have glass work experience. Nor do I need glass experience to see the potential problems that arise from trying to patch a crack rather than replace the pane of glass.

You said it yourself that the cracked glass you patched was toast with a mosaic of cracks running through it.

My point is, that even if the chance of the bottom panel breaking is minute, the $200 ish dollars that it will cost you to buy a new panel of glass and replace it is miniscule compared to what could happen IF that failure were to happen.

Even assuming all repairs would be diy the damage to your house could EASILY cost thousands of dollars in damage.

There was a person on this forum that bought a cheap stand that got wet and failed dumping a 55g tank on the floor. If i remember correctly the repair bill was over $10,000.

The risk of patching outweighs the benefit.
I think you do need experience of glass and it's working methods to be boldly stating such things.

I have already agreed it would be best to replace the pane and not have a patch so that is a mute point.
On my tank.
Yes, the panel cracked but the glass spec was sufficent that it held up and no water was lost, one of four panes failed. No problem. (Laminated is 2 sheets normally, similar to front window glass in a car)

For the post,
The bottom panel that exists will most likely crack, as I noted by experience.
The replacement panel, this will cover completely the failed piece making the tank water tight.
There will be no problem except the glass falling from the bottom when the tank is moved, remember I said tape the base panel, standard practice that will prevent the panel separating while it is being moved.

It will be safe, uniform cross hatch at about 6-8" interval with gaffer type tape.

Then fit panel as advised. It will be safe, if you are confident with silicone it should not leak, providing tank is properly installed, level etc.

It really is straightforward.

I also said it would be best to remove the panel but it is not necessary.

A full sheet or two halves, silicone inside without removing the original piece.
Water tight.
Tape base panel for safety, to prevent injury to persons during transit.
Safe, secure.

What is the issue exactly?
You are more likely to have an o ring fail in the future spilling all that water than the silicone failing, or the glass repair, bearing in mind it is a full replacement.
Just cut time. It's exactly the way I'd do things.

You run more risk cracking side panels during deconstruction and properly remounting the glass to make a full repair.

If the base panel really concerns you and you don't like the gaffer tape look, use sticky back window film, secure anti entry type.

That will most certainly provide a safe and viable method for repair.
It will also be cheaper faster and just as safe long term despite the obvious failure in the sheet.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:30 PM   #22
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a buddy of mine fixed a 20g long this way
1 sheet glass on inside and sealed
1 sheet glass on outside and sealed
yes it held up about a week till it burst
20g water destroyed his new wood floor in his apartment cost him almost $3500.00 to fix , now imagine 300g the damage would be astronomical
if it costs more than 1/2 of what you paid for the tank ,
to repair it correctly consider it totaled
it may cost more for a new tank but at least you'll have piece of mind of not flooding your home
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:28 PM   #23
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I agree with 54seaweed, the thought of "what if it did burst" would be enough to play on my mind making me worry all night long. 300gallons... Just imagine what that looks like on the floor. 1135 litres... 1.135 cubic meters... Sod that. Write it off or sell it as needing a repair then it's someone else's problem!


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Old 11-13-2014, 09:07 PM   #24
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I would replace the glass. It's worth it. The only other option I can think of is plywood coated with fiberglass and epoxy.


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Old 11-14-2014, 12:37 AM   #25
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Ok so heres another option. You could break down the tank and remake something differently shaped from the remaining panels.

Measure the longest sides and see if you have a third panel with no breakages that could fit as the bottom. Then cut end panels out of the last two un-broken panes. You will end up with a more regular shaped & smaller tank this way but you aren't writing the whole tank off.

For what it's worth i would attempt a repair myself. If the tank sits on a bit of wood that is cut to support the cracked base, it won't drop out. Lowering in another base over the cracked one should be about as good as redoing the entire base but in truth would probably come with some risks. Even the pond liner alternative has some merit if the wood that the tank is on is never removed. There would be some risk of leakage around the corners though. Any tank is a risk of breaking whether it's brand new or something that you have patched up already.

I'm interested in seeing what you end up doing. I hope it works out well for you.
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Old 11-14-2014, 04:00 PM   #26
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Wow. If that pops flood insurance won't cover you. The only things I'd do with that is find a tank builder to fix it, replace the bottom with a plywood and fiberglass job (similar to a diy tank,) or scrap it.

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Old 11-14-2014, 04:19 PM   #27
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That's what I said. I think glass would be the best tho those diy aquariums use mostly water pressure to hold the glass in place. The silicone doesn't stick to great to the epoxy it could work since it's on the bottom. If you do that put paper all the way around the bottom and only fill it part way for a couple weeks if there's any moister coming through you will see it on the paper and you can drain it b4 it becomes a problem


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Old 11-14-2014, 04:57 PM   #28
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3500 to fix 20gals water? That's 80 litres or so, seems a little steep! Was it in a block of flats or something? Maybe that could cost so much, 50litres is easy to mop up from a vinyl floor.

It isn't 300g but my big tank (750litre DIY) is 198 us gals +filters at the moment, it'll hold more (1020 on paper) but displacement of substrate. Same twin skin, the inside panel is enough to make watertight. If I spent all day worrying about it bursting what is the point of keeping fish! Too much stress! Test fill it, if it doesn't leak it will not suddenly burst unless you have not set up properly in the first place. I admit I worried for a few days but years later, it still works. The second skin was my built in failsafe.

Essentially you are replacing the broken pane while leaving existing glass in place using glass and silicone the same way the tank was originally built, how can it suddenly catastrophically burst? If this happened they wouldn't be selling them as they would be considered unsafe!

Hi Al, how are things? Told you I'd be back!
Yes who did that? Make a new tank with an old one? Was that you?

The worst thing that happened so far, a failed valve on the filter lost some 200 litres (52g)
It dried out no problem but it was a stone floor, on carpet maybe you would need to clean carpet, a tank like that on a first floor (I think that's 2nd floor in USA) on timber is always going to go wrong! If the wood beneath isn't up to it it will fail. 300 gals is over a ton, plus tank plus rocks plus you! That's more like 1.5+ ton that's 3300lb. BIG WEIGHT! I wouldn't put that on a timber floor! You need concrete and a perfectly level and evenly supported tank.
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:16 PM   #29
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Has the OP revisited this thread recently?
The smartest move would be to try to seek some remedy from the tank manufacturer, it was a brand new purchase after all (I did say just tell them it happened at first fill).

If it does come down to a DIY repair, it can be done,
BUT!!!!!!!
the most important thing to do to insure against failure is to find some way to fully and completely support the entire bottom pane of glass. That way there is no force exerted on the glass itself, but rather is transmitted to the wooden stand structure.
It is having that 1/8"-1/4" gap under the bottom plate that is the issue.


Fully support the entire bottom, and the full piece patch would work.
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:25 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 54seaweed View Post
a buddy of mine fixed a 20g long this way
1 sheet glass on inside and sealed
1 sheet glass on outside and sealed
yes it held up about a week till it burst
20g water destroyed his new wood floor in his apartment cost him almost $3500.00 to fix , now imagine 300g the damage would be astronomical
if it costs more than 1/2 of what you paid for the tank ,
to repair it correctly consider it totaled
it may cost more for a new tank but at least you'll have piece of mind of not flooding your home
I'll bet he just slapped them on and left the gap under the tank. If patched that way, what do you expect?

the idea is once the bottom piece has cracked, it's integrity is compromised and the only way to get around it is by fully supporting it so no pressure is exerted on the glass bottom, but transferred to the stand.
simple physics...
then the only way the bottom could fail is by concussive force, concentrated crushing forces or twisting/shearing forces, none of which you would encounter in a common aquarium set-up, unless of course you drop a real heavy rock onto the bottom glass.
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