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Old 02-19-2011, 11:38 PM   #11
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lol..google is your friend-
Welcome to the Hampton Roads Reef Club website!
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:24 AM   #12
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Man cutting plexiglass preciously is difficult. It's either a tiny bit too wide, or just not quite wide enough to be held by silicon. I tried putting on the first part, well see how it work after it dries, it may work, not sure.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:12 AM   #13
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I have to disagree. Although the last baffle will dictate the MINIMUM water level in the fuge, it doesn't have to be taller. In fact if it is taller that means all the water level variation occurs in the last section (where the pumps are). If you do not have an ATO this can lead to pumps pulling air. It also means that the water may be falling into that last section and creating bubbles (depending on the exact design). With a short last baffle the water level varies through the whole sump (so the water level in the whole sump goes down one inch instead of the water level in the pump section dropping four inches). It also means that if your pump pulls more water than you think it will then it will drain the pump section and pull air before enough water can overflow from the rest of the system.

This is how I had it in my sump and had no issues. This is exactly how I will do it again in my next setup too.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:14 AM   #14
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i think the bubble trap should be after the refugium and before the return area actually. i suppose it couldn't hurt to have the water level in the refugium fluctuate, but my refugium was always packed with rubble and macros and i couldn't afford to have it drained half way.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:22 AM   #15
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Definitely, but if it is fluctuating that much (which it shouldn't) then you definitely don't want all the water level variation in the pump section.

I kept the bubble trap (extra baffle) before the fuge so I didn't have bubbles in the fuge blocking light.

I did it this way mainly becuase I didn't know how tall I could take that last baffle and still guarantee the pump had enough water.
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