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Old 08-16-2011, 11:08 PM   #21
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300/12=25 GPH/in, which is ok, but you really want 35. Your uneven flow could be the slot tube not being straight and even, or not matched to the width of the screen. Next time you clean it, take a picture of the slot without the screen in it. Also post a pic of you entire sump area including the lights as they are placed when running. You have green growth in the center which means your nutrients aren't horribly high, just may need a little tweaking.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:36 PM   #22
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New Scrubber Sizing Guideline (Sept 2011)

Scrubbers will now be sized according to feeding. Nutrients "in" (feeding) must equal nutrients "out" (scrubber growth), no matter how many gallons you have. So...

An example VERTICAL waterfall screen size is 3 X 4 inches = 12 square inches of screen (7.5 X 10 cm = 75 sq cm) with a total of 12 real watts (not equivalent) of fluorescent light for 18 hours a day. If all 12 watts are on one side, it is a 1-sided screen. If 6 watts are on each side, it is a 2-sided screen, but the total is still 12 watts for 18 hours a day. This screen size and wattage should be able to handle the following amounts of daily feeding:

1 frozen cube per day (2-sided screen)
1/2 frozen cube per day (1-sided screen)
10 pinches of flake food per day (2-sided screen)
5 pinches of flake food per day (1-sided screen)
10 square inches (50 sq cm) of nori per day (2-sided screen)
5 square inches (50 sq cm) of nori per day (1-sided screen)
0.1 dry ounce (2.8 grams) of pellet food per day (2-sided screen)
0.05 dry ounce (1.4 grams) of pellet food per day (1-sided screen)

High-wattage technique: Double the wattage, and cut the hours in half (to 9 per day). This will get brown screens to grow green much faster. Thus the example above would be 12 watts on each side, for a total of 24 watts, but for only 9 hours per day. If growth starts to turn YELLOW, then increase the flow, or add iron, or reduce the number of hours. And since the bulbs are operating for 9 hours instead of 18, they will last 6 months instead of 3 months.

HORIZONTAL screens: Multiply the screen size by 4, and the wattage by 1.5

Flow is 24 hours, and is at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen [60 lph per cm], EVEN IF one sided or horizontal.

Very rough screen made of roughed-up-like-a-cactus plastic canvas.

Clean algae off of screen every 7 to 14 days, so that you can see the white screen material.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:42 PM   #23
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Very nice, subscribing
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:34 AM   #24
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Just wondering do any of you get algae growth around the water edge in your sump...guessing it's prob from the light.


Picture of my setup - Screen is about 2-3 days old.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:41 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAVE853 View Post
Just wondering do any of you get algae growth around the water edge in your sump...guessing it's prob from the light.


Picture of my setup - Screen is about 2-3 days old.
Yeah i do...just a coating ,,nothing thick ...your screen looks good
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAVE853 View Post
Just wondering do any of you get algae growth around the water edge in your sump...guessing it's prob from the light.


Picture of my setup - Screen is about 2-3 days old.
Your lights are pretty far away. Should have then about 4 or 5 inches away.

Good growth for 3 days
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:52 PM   #27
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Nice tank!

How would an algae scrubber help a reef filtration system that already has a skimmer and live rock etc? Would the algae scrubber replace a skimmer if done properly/big enough?
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:35 PM   #28
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The skimmer removes organic particles in the water, mimicking what the bech does. A scrubber gets rid or phosphates and nitrates. They each play different role so I wouldn't replace one with the other.
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:54 PM   #29
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You can run just a scrubber .
I never had a skimmer,,always ran a scrubber only with no problems ..
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:20 PM   #30
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I agree you can just run a big enough scrubber, I wouldn't though.
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