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Old 02-03-2011, 02:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by WendiDell View Post
The readings are the same pre and post Prime. It's about .15, not dangerous but still a measurable amount.
I don't know if you've heard of it but I just ordered an ECO-Aqualizer. It's suppose to remove all the ammonia and any other toxins in your tank water. It claims to reduce tank maintenance by 75%. And to eliminate fish stress and virtually eliminate fish diseases that are caused by bad water or stress.
I have no idea if it will do any of the things it claims to do. But it has a 180 day money back guarantee. Plus has a 35 day free trial, you just pay $15.00 for handling and if you hate it send it back. If you think it may work for you, they charge you after 35 days. And then you still have 145 days to see how it works long term. Hate it, get your money back. Like it, get one for each of your other tanks.
It's a pretty safe way to try something new.
Also, thank you for taking the time to explain chloramines. Unfortunately I couldn't really fallow, I got lost pretty quickly so the rest made little to no sense to me.
Yes that stuff is very scientific. How old exactly are yout tanks, the last poster is onto it. If you can get beyond the nitrite I think the nitrates will eventually take over the ammonia.
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:17 PM   #22
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My 10g QT is 7 yrs old, it was our first tank. Then 61/2 years ago we got our first 55g tank. I was a community tank for 51/2 years. Then we had a fatal ick outbreak and we lost the entire tank. I tore down the set up and cleaned and sterilized the tank killed off all the ick.
Then 9 months ago I set up the 10g as a QT. Then we started a Cichlid Tank in the 55g and we've slowly built up our stock. With every new fish spending a month in QT before entering the 55g tank.
Then about 7 months ago I had to set up the hosp. tank. A fish became ill and I already had fish in QT, so another tank was needed.
Then someone gave us 4 of their fish. It was either us or death so I said yes.
I then found out they were Tinfoil barbs which can grow to be 14" apiece and that they were a schooling fish, so I had to keep the four of them.
So much for free fish. Because of their future size they needed their own tank to grow into. So, in late Oct. 2010 we bought our last tank (for now).
And that's how long our tanks have been running.
I agree with you about the last poster.
I guess I need to be a little more patient and wait the full 2 months to see if my tanks finally cycle.
But I still need to know about the ammonia and nitrites. How high is to high for the fish in the tanks? I know zero is best but that's not going to happen during the cycle. I understand that there needs to be a little ammonia to feed the nitrites and that there needs to be a little Nitrite for Nitrates to grow. But I don't want my fish getting sick because of toxic water.
So, at what levels does the water become dangerous for my fish?
Or am I stalling the cycle by keeping the ammonia and Nitrites below .25ppm? Should I let the ammonia and nitrites rise a little (.50ppm) , to give the night nitrates more to feed off of?
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:28 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by WendiDell View Post

But I still need to know about the ammonia and nitrites. How high is to high for the fish in the tanks? I know zero is best but that's not going to happen during the cycle. I understand that there needs to be a little ammonia to feed the nitrites and that there needs to be a little Nitrite for Nitrates to grow. But I don't want my fish getting sick because of toxic water.
So, at what levels does the water become dangerous for my fish?
Or am I stalling the cycle by keeping the ammonia and Nitrites below .25ppm? Should I let the ammonia and nitrites rise a little (.50ppm) , to give the night nitrates more to feed off of?
Hey,

No keep everything at or below .25ppm, it's not worth risking their life to make the tank cycle faster, it will happen. I am in the same boat as you right now, I have a 90G with 5 Cardinals in it. My LFS told me that it was okay to add them, after getting them and doing much research I found out about the Nitrogen cycle etc. It's a planted C02 tank so the live plants help a little bit, I monitor the levels twice a day (right now) to ensure everything is below .25 ppm.

Once they start to rise I do 10-20% PWC's and it drops them back to normal. (I only have an ammonia reading currently, the tank has been setup for 3 weeks with fish in it for 1 week).

So I'd say just be patient and monitor your levels. PWC's are key in this stage, from all of the research I've been doing. Hope this helps.

Regards,
DG
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:41 PM   #24
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If she has ammonia in her water supply, water changes are not going to help. You must find a new water supply if there is ammonia in yours.
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:46 PM   #25
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As we both know

Ammonia over .25 Cause Stress To Fish
Nitrites over .25 Cause Stress To Fish
Nitrates 0 to 20 Normal 20 to 40 Cause Stress To Fish

Now we know ammonia is used to start the cycle process at this point ammonia is a good thing, unless their are fish in the tank. Anything above .25 Causes stress to the fish. If fish are in the tank water changes are needed anything above .25

Nitrites are a product of the ammonia. Nitrites need to be kept under .25 if not this can cause stress to the fish. If fish are in the tank water changes are needed anything above .25

The good thing is the there are things called Nitrates which are a product of nitrites.

Nitrates are a good thing we want to keep them below 20 but not to exceed 40.
At 20 I personally consider water changes. Nitrates are our buddy we need to watch them so that they stay in range of 0 to 20 .

So the nitrates will take control at the cycle point.

Cycle point is:

Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 0 to 20

I think with your situation ammonia is going to be a part of your life.
I know there is some chemicals out there that will render ammonia non tox. Maybe that's the way? And if it gives you piece of mind.
Ammo Chips maybe a solution.
Look at this
http://www.aquatichouse.com/WaterPur...aterfilter.asp

Since your tap water is testing .25 for ammonia.
Well need to hear from other members to see what they think about other ways to treat ammonia from tap water.

But I would think at some point the Nitrates will win out over the ammonia and nitrites.

Any other suggestions welcome.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:37 PM   #26
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If she has ammonia in her water supply, water changes are not going to help. You must find a new water supply if there is ammonia in yours.
Water changes will help but aren't a solution, agreed.
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:57 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by dgreenslade View Post
Hey,

No keep everything at or below .25ppm, it's not worth risking their life to make the tank cycle faster, it will happen. I am in the same boat as you right now, I have a 90G with 5 Cardinals in it. My LFS told me that it was okay to add them, after getting them and doing much research I found out about the Nitrogen cycle etc. It's a planted C02 tank so the live plants help a little bit, I monitor the levels twice a day (right now) to ensure everything is below .25 ppm.

Once they start to rise I do 10-20% PWC's and it drops them back to normal. (I only have an ammonia reading currently, the tank has been setup for 3 weeks with fish in it for 1 week).

So I'd say just be patient and monitor your levels. PWC's are key in this stage, from all of the research I've been doing. Hope this helps.

Regards,
DG
That's what I've been doing so far. I wasn't sure about the safe level so I've been keeping both the ammonia and the nitrites under .25ppm.
I to check the water at 7:00 am and 7:00 pm. I've even done back to back PWC, the few times the ammonia or nitrites have spiked..
I just wish the water would hurry up and cycle, it's wearing me out.
I'm not going to worry about the ammonia in the tap water until after the cycling is over one problem at a time.
Thank you for the help and good luck with your cycling.
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Old 02-04-2011, 12:26 AM   #28
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Recently out of the blue, I had an ammonia reading of .25 . It turned out that my test kit was expired, when I purchased a new one the reading was back at zero. I am not sure if this would apply to you, but it may be worth thinking about. My old kit was by red sea (total piece of junk) the new one is by API (great kit). Hope this helps.
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:14 AM   #29
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Recently out of the blue, I had an ammonia reading of .25 . It turned out that my test kit was expired, when I purchased a new one the reading was back at zero. I am not sure if this would apply to you, but it may be worth thinking about. My old kit was by red sea (total piece of junk) the new one is by API (great kit). Hope this helps.
I wish that were the case, but I just bought the API Master Kit 2 weeks ago. Testing 4 tanks twice a day, more if one of them is spiking Ammonia or Nitrites, uses a lot of test drops.
I'm trying to cycle my tanks without letting the ammonia or nitrites go above .25ppm, I go through a Master kit every 2 weeks. It's getting a bit pricey but they never go out of date.
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:19 AM   #30
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I see, That is alot of tests, I can see how they would not expire lol. best of luck.
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