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Old 10-26-2005, 10:52 PM   #1
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Another proposal... two-tier rack... made of wood!

OK... so I looked into metal shelving at Wearing Williams... the corner posts cmoe to maximum of 6'0" in the E-Z-Rect line of shelving... I need 6'7" corner posts... and I don't want to get into cutting them... further to that, it was going to cost over $225 (CA$,or $175 US$) for the setup... so I think I will go with wood so I can customize the heights however I want.

Please remember from my previous post that my space the rack is to go into is 79" high, 53" wide, and 28" deep front-to-back. It's a former clothes closet with the doors removed, on a cement sub-floor in the basement of the house. A 150-gallon currently sits on the spot where i intend to slot my finished rack.

So for starters, I was drawing the basic shelf template each tank will sit upon. You can see the measurements, all in inches... and the orange lines are 2.5" wood screws.

I intend to use all "2x4" pieces which are accurately measured 1.5" x 3.5". I intend to use 8 of the 2x4 for the sides of the rack, and fasten the shelves to those sides. Below the bottom shelf, front-and-back, and between shelves, behind each tank, will be an additional post to distribute the load.

Please comment on this shelf design for now and let me know if you think this shelf will stay together as is or if I need to start from scratch right again. Please let me know.

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Old 10-27-2005, 12:35 AM   #2
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You could easily build a two tank rack with 2x4s A single 2x4 can hold a lot of weight end to end i.e. like a table leg. (compression)
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Old 10-27-2005, 01:00 AM   #3
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heres a little something I just whipped up.
This will be more then enough for your tanks providing it's 2x4 material for everything.
Screws are the red dots, and liquid nails should be used on all joints.
dimensions are up to you.
btw i'll be building one of these in the next 2 weeks.


Matt.
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Old 10-27-2005, 02:28 PM   #4
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regarding the picture posted in the above response....

my personal opinion here is that i put very little faith in that type of butt joint construction, when you are loading a surface and relying on screws to transfer load to the legs. if i were you, i would have a 2x4 screwed into the inner side of the legs. that means 2 more lengths of 2x4, one from the floor to the bottom of the first level, and a second one from the top of the first level to the bottom of the top level. that way, the weight of the tanks will be transfered directly to the floor instead of relying on the screws to transfer the force from the shelf to the leg. the outer legs will be there to stabilize things, and carry a little load, but the inner leg components will be the main load carrying elements. and they will be loaded in compression (wood beams are very strong in this type of compression)

im anal about building things, so i tend to overbuild then, but i dont trust screws in a shear loading condition (i.e. loads applied perpendicular to the axis of the screw.). so, take my adivce, or toss it aside...

~mike
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Old 10-27-2005, 09:58 PM   #5
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You mean like this.

Good point on the weight issue

The problem here is securing the legs into place. You would have to have some sort of a corner bracket or a length on the inside from leg-shelf-leg.
Not only that but it is near impossible to find a drop saw that will cut a perfect 90deg angle. so any shift in weight could have a collapsing effect on the entire setup.
I presume over there you'd have the liquid nails, which in essence would be enough to hold the wood and tanks together by itself, the screws are only for extra support and to keep it square while it sets. (btw 3 to 3 1/2" screws minimum)
However I will also be putting a 2x4 length diagonaly across the back for extra support and to keep it level/square for life.
Man, you should have seen the rough as guts stand I had under my 4x2x2.
And that was built by a stand/tank builder.
Only saw it when I got rid of it the other week, all nails and basic wood glue.
made me shudder.

I'd chock a car up on that stand and consider myself safe working under it..
cheers.

Matt.
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Old 10-27-2005, 10:57 PM   #6
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This is revision 2-a to my plans for a wood aquarium rack. Please note, as some of you haev been suggesting, I CANNOT place the 2x4's "on edge" with the 1.5" edge facing sky, as opposed to my current "flat" design with the 3.5" flat side facing sky. If I do this, my cabinet shelve space will be too minimal to hold the 70-gallon (48 x 19 x 21) tanks I plan to place inside.

I am now using 2x6 for the corner posts!

Please see my design and let me know what you think. The schemes for shelf, side posts, front, and back of rack are now shown.

PLEASE... let me know your thoughts.

SHELF


SIDE POSTS


BACK


FRONT
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Old 10-27-2005, 11:04 PM   #7
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quick question...
Quote:
I CANNOT place the 2x4's "on edge" with the 1.5" edge facing sky, as opposed to my current "flat" design with the 3.5" flat side facing sky. If I do this, my cabinet shelve space will be too minimal to hold the 70-gallon (48 x 19 x 21) tanks I plan to place inside.
how do you figure that?
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Old 10-27-2005, 11:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeFeKt
quick question...
Quote:
I CANNOT place the 2x4's "on edge" with the 1.5" edge facing sky, as opposed to my current "flat" design with the 3.5" flat side facing sky. If I do this, my cabinet shelve space will be too minimal to hold the 70-gallon (48 x 19 x 21) tanks I plan to place inside.
how do you figure that?
The cabinet has to fit inside a 79" high cubbyhole, and it already measures 76.5" high. As is, the bottom shelf is only 3" off the ground!

Please review my drawings and measurements to see why I say that.
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Old 10-27-2005, 11:13 PM   #9
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Meaning... my shelf beams currently 1.5" "thick" in the position they are in. If I turn them "on edge" as you propose, that is 3.5 "thick," thus losing 2.0". Multiple this by 3 shelves (2 for tanks, 1 at top) and I then lose 6.0". I only have 2.5" to spare as is and that assumes I was exact at measuring my 79.0" heigh of cubbyhole.
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Old 10-27-2005, 11:18 PM   #10
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aah gotcha.. my mistake.
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