Anyone know about repairing the center glass on a tank frame.

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mve1004

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
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Phoenix AZ
I just picked up a 125 gallon fish tank really cheap $25. The only catch was the top glass in the center brace was broke. I already know that this tank does hold water so I figured this was a good buy but I am having a really hard time finding a new tank frame for this tank. I was looking for a new tank frame because I was hoping to get one that didn’t require a piece of glass. I tried Glasscages.com and they only make up to a 48 inch long frame. I asked the guy if I can use two 36 inch by 18 frames and somehow seem them together. He didn’t want to be bothered with the question and got me off the phone without giving me any confidence that this is possible. Does anyone have any suggestions or should I just buy a new piece of glass that is the same size as the old one and silicone it back in place.
 
I would ask at a local mom & pop fish store. I got the entire top unit for my 75 at my lfs plus he repaired it for me.
 
Ok so the LFS told me they can't get a brace for this tank because it's an older model .I took one of the broke pieces of glass off only to realize that the glass was just siliconed to to top of tank under the frame. I thought it would have been attached to the inside of the glass not the top. Does anyone know if this is how it should have been done in the first place?
 
Can't say for sure if that's how its supposed to be done with it being attached to the frame (mine was attached to the glass) but to replace it you can head to a glass shop and get a piece cut for pretty cheap. Then just use epoxy to seal it.
 
butterfly_koi said:
Can't say for sure if that's how its supposed to be done with it being attached to the frame (mine was attached to the glass) but to replace it you can head to a glass shop and get a piece cut for pretty cheap. Then just use epoxy to seal it.

Was it attached where it was sitting on top of the glass. Or was it attached to the inside of the tank from front to back. Just not sure how long I need to make the replacement glass.
 
Why not just get a length of anodized aluminum and bend it down on each end over the edge of the glass, then silicone it to the top of the tank to keep it from shifting? That would hold just fine as a center brace.
 
mve1004 said:
Was it attached where it was sitting on top of the glass. Or was it attached to the inside of the tank from front to back. Just not sure how long I need to make the replacement glass.

It was on the inside of the tank butted up against the trim. Just measure the tank from front on back on the inside to see how much you will need
 
You can add it inside or on top. On top you are more likely to get a strong connection, as it is difficult to get the silicone between the tank panes and the end of the brace. You could also add two pieces, one on top and one beneath. Use silicone, not epoxy.
 
BillD said:
You can add it inside or on top. On top you are more likely to get a strong connection, as it is difficult to get the silicone between the tank panes and the end of the brace. You could also add two pieces, one on top and one beneath. Use silicone, not epoxy.

I was thinking of using 2 pieces of acrylic and bonding it to the frame so it all becomes one piece . Both pieces are 1/4 inch thick and are 12x18
 
mve1004 said:
I was thinking of using 2 pieces of acrylic and bonding it to the frame so it all becomes one piece . Both pieces are 1/4 inch thick and are 12x18

Also would help with a place to put lighting for such a long tank.
 
Resealed tank used 2x4 as a temp center brace until I know the tank holds water . After a few days if there are no leaks I will bond the acrylic to the plastic frame to make the real brace. I probably will use the wood also because I like the idea for the extra support.
 

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Better pics . This was easy and cheap. 1 2x4 was around $4.00 I . I cut it to 18 and 6/16 and also cut 3 inch for the part that holds the tank. I used 3 inch screws to hold the wood together. Like I said earlier this is a temp solution until I empty the tank and put on the clear acrylic plates . I do like the idea of the extra support so I will also use this wood with the finished product. I am thinking of making the wood black to match the frame also coating it with a water seal.
 

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What you did with the wood was exactly what I recommended but with an aluminum strip. Aluminum being more discreet and will never fail.

Careful what sealants and stuff you use on that wood. Most aren't meant to be in contact with aquatic animals and may harm them if they leach or drip from the wood which may be getting wet.
 
hpiguy said:
What you did with the wood was exactly what I recommended but with an aluminum strip. Aluminum being more discreet and will never fail.

Careful what sealants and stuff you use on that wood. Most aren't meant to be in contact with aquatic animals and may harm them if they leach or drip from the wood which may be getting wet.

Good point. I will do my research For the water seal. Maybe black electric tape to coat it. I may go to the aluminum still. I just didnt get much help at the home depot so I thought of this while I was there for a fast fix just to see if the tank would hold water after I replaced all the old silicone with new silicone . So far it's doing good.
 
Why didn't you just have some glass bracing cut and get a tube of silicone from the LFS? Easy, clean looking, and is repaired as the original tank was intended to be. No worry about trying to seal it (electrical tape a very bad idea), no clunky chunks of wood laying across the tank blocking light, having to always be worked around, etc.... The aluminum will work and will look a lot better without all the negatives of the wood but in my opinion still secondary to the glass.
 
Lepomis said:
Why didn't you just have some glass bracing cut and get a tube of silicone from the LFS? Easy, clean looking, and is repaired as the original tank was intended to be. No worry about trying to seal it (electrical tape a very bad idea), no clunky chunks of wood laying across the tank blocking light, having to always be worked around, etc.... The aluminum will work and will look a lot better without all the negatives of the wood but in my opinion still secondary to the glass.

The reason I didn't to with glass was because my friend did this a year ago with his tank and the silicone stretched and the tank still failed. Like I said earlier I'm going to still look into the aluminum . I have clear acrylic glass 1/4 inch thick that will be bonded to the original frame becoming one piece I just like the idea of the extra support with the extra brace over it. The wood was a quick thing put together to fill the tank. Here are 2 pics of the acrylic that will replace the wood. I am probably going to add one aluminum strip over each piece of acrylic for extra support.
 

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I want to say thanks for all the feedback up to this point. I getting so many good ideas to keep this tank safe.
 
hpiguy said:
What you did with the wood was exactly what I recommended but with an aluminum strip. Aluminum being more discreet and will never fail.

Careful what sealants and stuff you use on that wood. Most aren't meant to be in contact with aquatic animals and may harm them if they leach or drip from the wood which may be getting wet.

Do you have a pic of the aluminum so I can look for it today?
 
Found the aluminum strips you guys were talking about. Here is another pic . The aluminum is much better. As soon as I empty this tank the wood is off and I will silicone the aluminum to the frame. I an still going to bond the acrylic glass on to for support .
 

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