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Old 04-29-2004, 08:22 PM   #1
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Anyone who uses a Skill Saw 10" Table Saw Notice-

That the ripping fence dosn't always stay on the backside of the saw. I.E when i send some wood down along the fence the back tends to move outward.

It's not a gear driven fence like the older and more expencive models. It has a little arm that wraps around the lip of the table, then sinches down to hold it, but doesn't.

I was thinking of cutting some acrylic panles, and wondering if i should just clamp a peice of plywood down to the table and useing that? or back the fence up with some plywood, and doing it that way?

Any other ideas?

TIA.
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Old 04-29-2004, 08:36 PM   #2
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Take the fence off and look underneath by the clamp. there should be either a bolt, a screw or an allen head socket inside or on the end of the fence that you can use to adjust the clamping force of the fence. Good Luck!
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Old 04-29-2004, 09:34 PM   #3
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What OBX said.


Afterall, theres alot of vibration in something like a saw, so its not impossible to think some screws would wiggle loose every now and again.

and if its new, they never tighten everything down from the factory.
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Old 04-29-2004, 09:48 PM   #4
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Just some general advice, always use a tape measure to set your distance, and not the side of the saw. Make sure you measure from both ends of the blade to make sure it is even on both sides.
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Old 04-29-2004, 10:38 PM   #5
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all good advice. I will check the screws.

Now just as a recap. I should be getting a 60+tooth blade? i.e plywood blade? for acrylic. It's got a crabide blade on it with big teeth now. lol
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Old 04-29-2004, 10:55 PM   #6
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Check out these sites...
http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html
http://fins.actwin.com/articles/acrylic/tools.php

I'll bet the guy at melevsreef would be happy to answer your questions
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Old 04-30-2004, 04:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefRaff
all good advice. I will check the screws.

Now just as a recap. I should be getting a 60+tooth blade? i.e plywood blade? for acrylic. It's got a crabide blade on it with big teeth now. lol
60 + tooth carbide isn't that good for plywood, let alone acrylic. There are specialty plastic blades with very fine teeth - to save money, get the 7" one if the arbor will fit. On my saw, thin kerf blade with 100+ teeth works best. I suppose you can use blades with fewer teeth as long as you go very s.l.o.w.l.y ... That way you get more teeth cutting per inch of material - same as using a fine tooth blade.

An easier way to get a smooth edge is with a router if you have the machine, preferable mounted to your table.
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Old 04-30-2004, 06:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
An easier way to get a smooth edge is with a router if you have the machine, preferable mounted to your table.
Somewhere i do. I think the Brother-in-law borrowed it.

I bought a rotozip thinkin i was gonna use that and the first time around it took a big chunk out. lol

come to think of it, i think i even have a seporate table for a router.
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Old 04-30-2004, 09:25 PM   #9
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along the same lines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=2389286139
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Old 04-30-2004, 09:43 PM   #10
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Dude, It's already sold last month. LOL
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