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Old 07-06-2005, 01:14 AM   #21
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I am not 100% sure about ATS removing all of dissolved protein, I have heard arguments that is does not and that DON's can build up in a scrubbed tank. But I would immagine that it would take out some of the dissolved protiens, I cannot be more convincing b/c the fact is I really don't know, there is no way of testing them without going to a laboratory.
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Old 07-06-2005, 01:52 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JProx
i mean seriously.. does this commerical unit look has it has a 1000watt lighting engine under its hood? http://www.aquaticengineers.com/imag...el_Model12.jpg
From the looks of that design the idea was to only have to light a very small surface area at a time and I would assume it would be 24/7 lighting.. there doesnt seem to be one square foot of surface area that needs to be lit.. the 1000watt figure ashdavid is talking about is for one square meter wich is 10.8 times larger then the surface area in that design.. I would assume by the way that filter is designed it would need around 95 watts of light.. maybe 4-12" ODNO bulbs could manage that. LOL.. Building the rotating scrubber would be an issue of creativity.. LOL
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:06 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frick-n-Frags on Reef Central
My skimmer hasn't pulled a drop since Xmas but I did throttle it down in case of an OD it would still work.
RC
If you read the tread he had been running the ATS for several months only.. and the PS was on the system prior to the addition of the ATS.. Im completely uncertain of how he designed the ATS and how efficient the design is but he is not the only user in the thread that says they are having the same result with ATS..

I dont know about all of the dissolved protein being removed but shutting down a PS on a reef system is good enough removal for me..
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:24 AM   #24
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Well with my tank, like I said before I did not do a water change for almost a year, only topping water up, I did not have any issues with sick fish. I would assume that proteins would have been taken out considerably. Have though about the design yet?
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:42 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashdavid
Well with my tank, like I said before I did not do a water change for almost a year, only topping water up, I did not have any issues with sick fish. I would assume that proteins would have been taken out considerably. Have though about the design yet?
I was hoping you could help me narrow down design details on top of giving the tons of other details about lighting, surface area needed, water flow needed.. I really owe you on this!

I have seen the rotating algal wheel design.. it looks very difficult to clean ( the scraping of the algae) and to build compared to a tray design..

In the tray design what would be the best layout? What do you think would make a great design?
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Old 07-06-2005, 03:45 AM   #26
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The tray is straight forward , all you have to do is design it to best utilize the type of lights you are using so no light is wasted ,eg for MH lamps if you are using one light, make the ATS square and put the light in the middle of the tray, if you use ordinary fluorescent lighting make the ATS long and narrow ect. Then make it about 8 to 12" deep to stop splashing or use a lid, keep the water level at about 2 to 4" , the main thing I found is that you only need 1/2" from the screen to water level. It is the dump bucket that is difficult, I designed my own b/c there are no pics on how to build one. You have to figure out how much flow you are going to have and then you have make the volume of the bucket so that it will tip from 8 to 20 sec, but you also have to make it so that it will tip when it is full of water, btw I had to figure all this out by myself,lol. I will try to get some design pics for you. Just give me a few days to look for them.
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Old 07-06-2005, 05:02 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ashdavid
I will try to get some design pics for you. Just give me a few days to look for them.
Ill try to be patient.. Im still reading on the ATS subject right now.. I need to find out the amount of food the system will ultimately be using and then do some calculations on how big I need to make this thing.. wich of course will determine all the other factors such as light and water flow..
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Old 07-06-2005, 06:34 AM   #28
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How much distance is needed for the dump bucket splash? Could it be just enough to cause some turbulence or does it need to be enough to make a big splash? If you could explain your answer that would be great as well.. Id really like to understand the reasons for the design..
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmagi
Quote:
Originally Posted by JProx
i mean seriously.. does this commerical unit look has it has a 1000watt lighting engine under its hood? http://www.aquaticengineers.com/imag...el_Model12.jpg
From the looks of that design the idea was to only have to light a very small surface area at a time and I would assume it would be 24/7 lighting.. there doesnt seem to be one square foot of surface area that needs to be lit.. the 1000watt figure ashdavid is talking about is for one square meter wich is 10.8 times larger then the surface area in that design.. I would assume by the way that filter is designed it would need around 95 watts of light.. maybe 4-12" ODNO bulbs could manage that. LOL.. Building the rotating scrubber would be an issue of creativity.. LOL
sorry for my broad generalization, however i dug that pic up just to throw another idea out there, a 1000watts of lighting is a monsterous amount of light, sure its over a 1 sq meter box, but that has to take some serious amounts of money to power and build. that design though is rated for a 500 gallon tank, i believe. it does use 2 -> 96watt pc bulbs. orginally i thought it was meant to run only when the lights on the main tank were off, but there is another pic showing the reverse. which makes me wonder how they control the co2, or any of the ph spikes. it has a surge box built in, not sure how it works in the system, or where its actually located though. here's the specs (no idea why i didn't post this before) http://www.aquaticengineers.com/ecowheel%20unit.htm

i really don't think building a rotating design would be much more difficult than the traditional tray maybe a little more expensive, but not harder. the biggest hurdle is finding a premade round cyclinder in the right size, and if thats impossible (which it probably is) you can always cut out the peices from an acrylic sheet. that actual unit is used in city aquariums, so it must work pretty darn well, it might be worth emulating.
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Old 07-07-2005, 03:53 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by JProx


i really don't think building a rotating design would be much more difficult than the traditional tray maybe a little more expensive, but not harder. the biggest hurdle is finding a premade round cyclinder in the right size, and if thats impossible (which it probably is) you can always cut out the peices from an acrylic sheet. that actual unit is used in city aquariums, so it must work pretty darn well, it might be worth emulating.
It is not the fact that a rotating drum would be hard or easy to build, the fact is that it is not as efficient as the dump bucket or wave types. Dr Adey has stated that when running water and no wave action was implemented, the algae production rate droped by 50%.Wave action is deffinately a must when designing your ATS. Also about the light thing, the fact is more light means more algae production. Those figure that I stated before,
Quote:
Originally Posted by JProx
The amount of nitrogen micro algae can take out of water per day ,per sq/m in normal aquarium conditions is about 4g or a little more, higher values have been recorded in experiments .
This value of 4g per day is acheived with about 12h a day lighting or so I am led to believe. Dr Adey recomends lighting periods of 12 to 18hrs a day. I run my ATS for 18hrs a day, which incidentlly has 2200w of light. I think someone said before that they have never heard of the 1000w per sq/m rule before, this is true there is no rule on this but in Dr Adeys book all the most efficient ATS's were the ones that ran 800w to 1200w, so I just picked the middle number. Also Dr Adeys home aquarium has a light per sq/m of 1650w, and he states this is his most effective ATS( Dr Adeys ATS surface area is 0.18sq/m).
Btw I read the other thread on ATS in this forum and I would just like to clarify something, I believe that the Townsvile 600,000g public aquarium is not using ATS's at the moment, due to experiments being carried out.
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