capj64's unofficial plywood build

[capj64]

What type of skimmer takes a direct intake line?

Does the direct line run to the sump and then to the skimmer? I'm gonna have to buy one to see how they work. My 29g is gonna have way more equipment than it needs just so I can learn for my 150g

 

[Jimbo7]

Haha sorry, I hope that didn't come off wrong, I was actually curious if there was a new one.
Most skimmers are either an in-sump or a HOB. The in-sump ones literally just sit in your sump and the pump takes water directly out. Most people create a whole other section so that sand and stuff doesnt get sucked out of your fuge. IMHO sumps should go something like this. (attached)
There might be some mistakes because i'm at work, rushed, and its almost lunch time

 

[capj64]

Didn't take it the wrong way...hope you had a great lunch.

I'm watching youtube vids trying to learn a little more about skimmers and installation.

What is a good skimmer for a 150g? And it they break down, do you know if they are easy to repair yourself?

 

[Jimbo7]

I have always used ASM skimmers and love them.
ASM G Series P rotein Skimmers
You would be fine with the G-2, but the G-3 isn't that much more expensive if you have the room. They are surprisingly simple, you will get it and ask yourself why you paid so much money for it. But there is a lot of things to take into account, and they are really worth it. Really the only thing you might ever have to replace is the pump if you run it dry, or a new intake.

I hear Octopus is a good brand as well, but you'll have to wait and see if someone else with one chimes in on that.

 

[capj64]

ok, reworked the closed loop. I'm hoping that with a good pump, I won't need PH's. Am I correct in thinking this, or way off base?

If I'm correct then I'm done with all lines running to/from my tank. Now I can start working on the sump design. Plus I'll get to try it out on my 29g and see how it works (just a smaller version).

I'm sooo stoked I don't know if I'll be able to wait to start on the 150g. I was telling my husband last night that it was going to be expensive. But that I was going to buy the equipment as I got the money that way I had everything before we start the installation in Feb 2011. He then told me that I could use the bonus that he gets from work, if he gets one this year. YAY! Hopefully no bills pop up between now and then.

ok, here's what I've got laid out now...

 

[Jimbo7]

ok, reworked the closed loop. I'm hoping that with a good pump, I won't need PH's. Am I correct in thinking this, or way off base?

If you get a good pump its going to help a lot. What matters more with that is how you scape your rock. If what you have now provides good flow to everywhere in your tank, then you should be alright. If not, then you might have to get one or two small ones to stir up the dead spots.

The only other thing im not crazy about is the second return line that goes to the right. That is a really long line, you are probably going to lose a lot of flow. I might run your sump return line to the left of the tank, get rid of the right one, and then have your closed loop return to the bottom two outputs and the right one, and get rid of the left.

I'm not positive though, it all depends on what size pumps you are going to be using, hopefully someone a little more knowledgeable on that area chimes in.

 

[capj64]

Each return line will have it's own pump, but doing it the way you just described would save me one pump. Plus less lines Thanks Always liked the second eye, one person can usually see what the other one doesn't.

 

[capj64]

I just checked my email and I got my quote back for the 1/2" starphire glass... wow, big difference from the 1/4" I had quoted the other day.
Without tax, my cost for the 1/4" was $93.41 for two 60 x 24 pieces.
For the 1/2", it's $258.94. hmmm

 

[Ziggy953]

I have always used ASM skimmers and love them.
ASM G Series P rotein Skimmers
You would be fine with the G-2, but the G-3 isn't that much more expensive if you have the room. They are surprisingly simple, you will get it and ask yourself why you paid so much money for it. But there is a lot of things to take into account, and they are really worth it. Really the only thing you might ever have to replace is the pump if you run it dry, or a new intake.

I hear Octopus is a good brand as well, but you'll have to wait and see if someone else with one chimes in on that.

Jimbo is offering some good advice here. I used an ASM G4X w/recirc mod on my 120g system and loved the heck out of the skimmer. They are good skimmers for the money.

Octopus skimmers are similar to that of the ASM and are an excellent option.

 

[Mitchell0605]

Tagging along.

 

[Jimbo7]

goossshh, is this built yet? lets gooo

 

[capj64]

lol, I know!! I'm ready to turn off TV, phone, etc...so I can start sooner than this fall.

 

[Greenmaster]

I'm here to tag along too

 

[capj64]

I've been "window shopping" getting an idea of where, when and cost of supplies. Just wish the cash flow was a little more free flowing. Sending my husband and son on a white water rafting trip this weekend so I'm hoping he'll be in a really good mood when I start bringing in the parts and pieces of this project

Now for some questions

1. The sock/bag that I see on some tank drain lines to the sump... is that necessary? And if I don't want to have my drain line diapered is there something else that I should do in the sump?

2. Why do I always see the auto top off filling into the return section of the sump? Wouldn't it be better to top off in the drain line section or the refugium area so that the fresh water gets all the "good stuff" before going into the DT?

3. Ok, I've jumped a little past the sump and started looking at lighting too. I don't want anything that puts off alot of heat (small house/menopause) so I've ordered a compact PAR38 6500k to see how well it works. I'm hoping that I can mount four of these over the tank. If it does work, I'll have less than $100 in it. Has anyone seen these used?

Thanks for all the help

 

[Jimbo7]

Haha good plan,

1| Its merely to collect particulates and gunk, you can also use it as a space to keep little bags of chempure or phosban if you ever use them. I think they help a lot, my moms is always catching stuff. But its personal preference.

2| Its kind of hard to tell, but the return section of the sump is the only section that has a variable water line. The other sections have baffles on both ends, and fill until they overflow into the next section. The return is the last section and where you will be able to tell how much water is evaporating out of your system. Does that make sense? Its still early for me.

3| I don't think you will be happy with that bulb. Its going to be really white/yellow and I can't imagine the spectrum is great. It's probably going to feed nuisance algae more then anything. But who knows, test it out and let us know!

If you are interesed in just a straight socket bulb, I know nanotuners makes this Nanotuners.com Quite a bit more expensive, but just giving you some options.

 

[BigJim]

1. The sock/bag that I see on some tank drain lines to the sump... is that necessary? And if I don't want to have my drain line diapered is there something else that I should do in the sump?

2. Why do I always see the auto top off filling into the return section of the sump? Wouldn't it be better to top off in the drain line section or the refugium area so that the fresh water gets all the "good stuff" before going into the DT?

3. Ok, I've jumped a little past the sump and started looking at lighting too. I don't want anything that puts off alot of heat (small house/menopause) so I've ordered a compact PAR38 6500k to see how well it works. I'm hoping that I can mount four of these over the tank. If it does work, I'll have less than $100 in it. Has anyone seen these used?

1. The filter sock is the first filtration media. Is it necessary? It all really depends on the design of your sump. Personally, I'd skip the sock. They're known to plug up quickly.

2. I think Jimbo nailed it. The return section water level is the first to change.

3. Interesting lighting. I imagine it would work like a small pendant. Just make sure to mount it high enough to let the light spread in the tank.

 

[Greenmaster]

No comment on the sock.
The return section water level in a running setup is the only one to change... unless your pump dies... so you could have a float switch in the return section of your sump and have your top off water pumped into your overflow then by the time it makes it to the DT the water is completely mixed... but I don't think it makes that big of a difference where the water enters just as long as it isn't directly into the DT.
That should be enough lighting for a FOWLR. But if you want any corals you will need better lighting.

 

[capj64]

Yeah, don't know about the sock thing yet. Maybe if I can just take it off and throw it away

ok, the ATO makes sense in the return section now. DUH

And as for the lighting, yes I'm going to have corals. I made the mistake of buying a rock with zoes on it...it keeps me at the tank for hours. I've named it my rock of plenty. Besides the zoes, there is a sea fan, a itsy bitsy baby sea urchin, lots of pod critters and I'm pretty sure a clam kinda like thing. So I figure as much as I love learning about my fish and this one little rock, I'll have a blast with what I can stick in my new build

So, GreenM...when you say better lighting, do you mean an higher color number (6500K is sun/daylight) or do you mean brighter more watts??

And thanks for the link Jimbo, I'm gonna check it out. Just had an image flash to mind...all the lamps and light sockets in the livingroom with different bulbs, "Which one would you choose, Honey?" lol Sorry, it's been a long day for me

 

[Greenmaster]

...So, GreenM...when you say better lighting, do you mean an higher color number (6500K is sun/daylight) or do you mean brighter more watts??...

I was thinking for the size of the tank having under 80w combined seems very low... the color temp (6500k for example) is more for lighting preferences and having a higher temp 10000k or 14000k you get more percentage as blue or violet and they are what show more of the florescence of corals and fish. So color is more of a preference thing and "Lumen" or "Par" are more important for corals and clams (non filter feeder clams) If you have a deep tank penetration is also very important as the lights intensity can drop very quickly the deeper you go. With all that said without spending a bunch of money I'm not sure what you would want to use... but the lights that you have selected put off more heat and less light per watt then T5's.

 

[capj64]

ok, got it. I don't want a lot of blue, so I've learned from Zero's threads not to go above 10000k or 12000k. I'll start looking at T5's again.

Thanks