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Old 06-24-2010, 06:48 PM   #31
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goossshh, is this built yet? lets gooo
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Old 06-24-2010, 07:00 PM   #32
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lol, I know!! I'm ready to turn off TV, phone, etc...so I can start sooner than this fall.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:28 AM   #33
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I'm here to tag along too
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:54 AM   #34
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I've been "window shopping" getting an idea of where, when and cost of supplies. Just wish the cash flow was a little more free flowing. Sending my husband and son on a white water rafting trip this weekend so I'm hoping he'll be in a really good mood when I start bringing in the parts and pieces of this project

Now for some questions

1. The sock/bag that I see on some tank drain lines to the sump... is that necessary? And if I don't want to have my drain line diapered is there something else that I should do in the sump?

2. Why do I always see the auto top off filling into the return section of the sump? Wouldn't it be better to top off in the drain line section or the refugium area so that the fresh water gets all the "good stuff" before going into the DT?

3. Ok, I've jumped a little past the sump and started looking at lighting too. I don't want anything that puts off alot of heat (small house/menopause) so I've ordered a compact PAR38 6500k to see how well it works. I'm hoping that I can mount four of these over the tank. If it does work, I'll have less than $100 in it. Has anyone seen these used?

Thanks for all the help
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:58 AM   #35
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Haha good plan,

1| Its merely to collect particulates and gunk, you can also use it as a space to keep little bags of chempure or phosban if you ever use them. I think they help a lot, my moms is always catching stuff. But its personal preference.

2| Its kind of hard to tell, but the return section of the sump is the only section that has a variable water line. The other sections have baffles on both ends, and fill until they overflow into the next section. The return is the last section and where you will be able to tell how much water is evaporating out of your system. Does that make sense? Its still early for me.

3| I don't think you will be happy with that bulb. Its going to be really white/yellow and I can't imagine the spectrum is great. It's probably going to feed nuisance algae more then anything. But who knows, test it out and let us know!

If you are interesed in just a straight socket bulb, I know nanotuners makes this Nanotuners.com Quite a bit more expensive, but just giving you some options.
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capj64 View Post
1. The sock/bag that I see on some tank drain lines to the sump... is that necessary? And if I don't want to have my drain line diapered is there something else that I should do in the sump?

2. Why do I always see the auto top off filling into the return section of the sump? Wouldn't it be better to top off in the drain line section or the refugium area so that the fresh water gets all the "good stuff" before going into the DT?

3. Ok, I've jumped a little past the sump and started looking at lighting too. I don't want anything that puts off alot of heat (small house/menopause) so I've ordered a compact PAR38 6500k to see how well it works. I'm hoping that I can mount four of these over the tank. If it does work, I'll have less than $100 in it. Has anyone seen these used?
1. The filter sock is the first filtration media. Is it necessary? It all really depends on the design of your sump. Personally, I'd skip the sock. They're known to plug up quickly.

2. I think Jimbo nailed it. The return section water level is the first to change.

3. Interesting lighting. I imagine it would work like a small pendant. Just make sure to mount it high enough to let the light spread in the tank.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:38 PM   #37
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No comment on the sock.
The return section water level in a running setup is the only one to change... unless your pump dies... so you could have a float switch in the return section of your sump and have your top off water pumped into your overflow then by the time it makes it to the DT the water is completely mixed... but I don't think it makes that big of a difference where the water enters just as long as it isn't directly into the DT.
That should be enough lighting for a FOWLR. But if you want any corals you will need better lighting.
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:14 PM   #38
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Yeah, don't know about the sock thing yet. Maybe if I can just take it off and throw it away :P

ok, the ATO makes sense in the return section now. DUH

And as for the lighting, yes I'm going to have corals. I made the mistake of buying a rock with zoes on it...it keeps me at the tank for hours. I've named it my rock of plenty. Besides the zoes, there is a sea fan, a itsy bitsy baby sea urchin, lots of pod critters and I'm pretty sure a clam kinda like thing. So I figure as much as I love learning about my fish and this one little rock, I'll have a blast with what I can stick in my new build

So, GreenM...when you say better lighting, do you mean an higher color number (6500K is sun/daylight) or do you mean brighter more watts??

And thanks for the link Jimbo, I'm gonna check it out. Just had an image flash to mind...all the lamps and light sockets in the livingroom with different bulbs, "Which one would you choose, Honey?" lol Sorry, it's been a long day for me
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:27 PM   #39
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...So, GreenM...when you say better lighting, do you mean an higher color number (6500K is sun/daylight) or do you mean brighter more watts??...
I was thinking for the size of the tank having under 80w combined seems very low... the color temp (6500k for example) is more for lighting preferences and having a higher temp 10000k or 14000k you get more percentage as blue or violet and they are what show more of the florescence of corals and fish. So color is more of a preference thing and "Lumen" or "Par" are more important for corals and clams (non filter feeder clams) If you have a deep tank penetration is also very important as the lights intensity can drop very quickly the deeper you go. With all that said without spending a bunch of money I'm not sure what you would want to use... but the lights that you have selected put off more heat and less light per watt then T5's.
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:20 AM   #40
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ok, got it. I don't want a lot of blue, so I've learned from Zero's threads not to go above 10000k or 12000k. I'll start looking at T5's again.

Thanks
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