Go Back   Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community > General Aquarium Forums > DIY Projects
Click Here to Login

Join Aquarium Advice Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com
 
Old 10-29-2011, 11:04 AM   #31
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
kurtyboh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 1,413
Send a message via MSN to kurtyboh Send a message via Skype™ to kurtyboh
what's doug going to build now?
__________________

__________________
kurtyboh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 11:06 AM   #32
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Ibrahim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 2,559
You can still the tank. Just make the back 3 panels whit and the first one clear.
__________________

__________________
Ibrahim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 11:06 AM   #33
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Ibrahim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 2,559
Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtyboh
what's doug going to build now?
Guessing a sump.
__________________
Ibrahim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 11:11 AM   #34
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
mr_X's Avatar


 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Fairless Hills, Pa.
Posts: 17,895
Send a message via MSN to mr_X
i want to partition a rubbermaid sump. it's a 50 gallon one that's 52" x 31" x 12" tall, and i don't know what material i can find that's strong enough to span 31" and not bow.
__________________
thanks,
Doug
mr_X is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 11:19 AM   #35
AA Team Emeritus
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Whitby, Ont,Canada
Posts: 2,755
A little late to this thread, but for what it's worth, I'll add something. The seams on the bottom would be of no concern, since the tank would have to sit on a solid base so the entire base of the tank is supported. The concern for me would be the back joints, and the mitered joints. Using a table saw leaves a rough edge that probably doesn't weld well. As well they need to be precise to get a good weld. All this is of no consequence now, but perhaps still of interest. For a number of reasons, glass can be easier to work with with.
__________________
Join a fish club. Don't have one in your area? Start one.
BillD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 12:19 PM   #36
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
kurtyboh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 1,413
Send a message via MSN to kurtyboh Send a message via Skype™ to kurtyboh
@doug i was thinking it had something to do with your sump, but didnt realize you had a 31" in span in there!... a near perfect find for ya.
__________________
kurtyboh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 12:21 PM   #37
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
mr_X's Avatar


 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Fairless Hills, Pa.
Posts: 17,895
Send a message via MSN to mr_X
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillD View Post
A little late to this thread, but for what it's worth, I'll add something. The seams on the bottom would be of no concern, since the tank would have to sit on a solid base so the entire base of the tank is supported. The concern for me would be the back joints, and the mitered joints. Using a table saw leaves a rough edge that probably doesn't weld well. As well they need to be precise to get a good weld. All this is of no consequence now, but perhaps still of interest. For a number of reasons, glass can be easier to work with with.
i would think some companies would just heat a single piece and bend it to shape, instead of dealing with all of those seams....
__________________
thanks,
Doug
mr_X is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 12:30 PM   #38
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
rdnelson99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 1,861
@ Bill D and Mr._X. I agree that elliminating the seems would be preferable but I was trying to figure a way to do it using these sheets since they were only $10 each. I have herd that after cutting the acrylic with a table saw you can heat the eadge with a torch to get the perfectly smooth edge needed for a good weld. Haven't tried it yet but will when I build the sump.

Also to Mr._X, the guy said the edges were rounded so if you need exactly 31" it may not work. I figured I would have to cut a 1/2" or so off of each edge to get a true 90. I PMed the guys contact info to you. He is retired so I am sure he would have the time to ship you some.
__________________
Since my tank is a birthday present to my wife, everything I spend going forward is just an extension of my love for her right?
rdnelson99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 12:34 PM   #39
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
rdnelson99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 1,861
Another thought I had as far as the miterred joints in the display side was to bend a piece that was a couple inches wide and line the inside of the joint. Similar to the double layer I was thinking of for the back seems. In the back they I could hide them with the overflows but in the front they would be visable. My hopes was that if the weld was done right, they double layer may disapear once water was in the tank. Again, it is pretty much just a thought excersise now because the panels can't be used anyway.

If I were to go to the expens of buying clear acrylic, I would not go with this design for sure. LOL
__________________
Since my tank is a birthday present to my wife, everything I spend going forward is just an extension of my love for her right?
rdnelson99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2011, 03:43 PM   #40
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Ibrahim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 2,559
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdnelson99
Another thought I had as far as the miterred joints in the display side was to bend a piece that was a couple inches wide and line the inside of the joint. Similar to the double layer I was thinking of for the back seems. In the back they I could hide them with the overflows but in the front they would be visable. My hopes was that if the weld was done right, they double layer may disapear once water was in the tank. Again, it is pretty much just a thought excersise now because the panels can't be used anyway.

If I were to go to the expens of buying clear acrylic, I would not go with this design for sure. LOL
Yeah but I'm sure one sheet of clear acrylic can't be too expensive. You could always do the idea I previously stated which was making the back 3 panels milky white and the front clear
__________________

__________________
Ibrahim is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
diy, tan

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Green Spotted Puffer Profile Terrance Freshwater & Brackish - Fish or Plant Profiles 2 12-31-2012 12:30 PM
Restarting 50g reef tank - need advice adam83 Saltwater & Reef - Getting Started 1 10-15-2011 12:03 PM
cycled tank, possible algae problem? bubbles10 Freshwater & Brackish - General Discussion 6 09-20-2011 09:37 PM
New 29 Gallon Tank! Stocking question and more! gobullschi Nano Reefs 8 09-17-2011 01:23 AM
starting a 20 gallon fowlr tank PLEASE HELP volcomkrew4life Saltwater & Reef - Getting Started 2 08-08-2011 11:19 PM







» Photo Contest Winners








Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.