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Old 07-18-2012, 09:03 PM   #1
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DIY 40 gal sump/fuge

I will be building my own new sump for my 125g reef very soon and I wanted to document for anyone interested in following. It should be done and running relatively quickly as I have already done quite a bit of the up front research and gathering of supply.

I will be replacing a wet/dry sump with a 3 chamber sump with fuge. I am using a 40g breeder. My drain section with two 4" socks and skimmer will be in the chamber on the left. That section is 10" wide with an under-over set of baffles. I could have squeezed it to 9" and would have been alright on the skimmer but 10" is needed for the two sock hangers. I decided to go this way to leave me some flexibility on where I put the filter socks. At 9" I would have had to put one in the fuge for sure. I might end up putting one in the fuge anyway, but this way I have the flexibility to try both configurations.

The fuge will be the center section and it will be 13" wide ending with an over-under-over set of baffles to act as a bubble trap. The first of these three is at 11.5" height which is 0.5" shorter than the baffle at the left of the fuge. The last of the bubble trap baffles is at 11". Finally, the width of the return chamber is 9.5".

Comments? Improvements? I need them by Saturday morning cause that is when the glass goes in.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:26 PM   #2
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Add a fourth baffle to the return section trust me. I have the three baffle system and unless you have an ato it will create a waterfall effect which will cause stray bubbles to suck into your return and coming out as micro bubbles eliminating the point to all your bubble traps lol
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:26 PM   #3
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Plus it'll be an added bubble trap
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:36 PM   #4
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Pump with plumbing. Got all the PVC from menards. Boy, I stood in that isle contemplating things for like an hour. Plumbing is complicated!

I'm using a danner mag-18 as the pump. The white piece above the pump is a 1" check valve that will prevent back flow in the case of power loss. Above that is a ball valve to regulate flow. Finally, the T that sends water to 0.75" inside diameter tubing to the tank returns.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrc8858
Add a fourth baffle to the return section trust me. I have the three baffle system and unless you have an ato it will create a waterfall effect which will cause stray bubbles to suck into your return and coming out as micro bubbles eliminating the point to all your bubble traps lol
I guess I could picture that happening as evaporation lowers the water level. ATO is part of my future but not for a while. Maybe I will consider a forth...problem is I already ordered all the glass from a local shop. Using 1/4" glass. All the quick places like Ace only have 1/8". That would probably be alright for this last baffle.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:53 PM   #6
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Ya its not really taking any pressure just diverting a small amount of water so I wouldn't be concerned if that baffle was 1/8. Plus since its submerged there's equal pressure on both sides unlike the tank walls being pushed out.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrc8858
Ya its not really taking any pressure just diverting a small amount of water so I wouldn't be concerned if that baffle was 1/8. Plus since its submerged there's equal pressure on both sides unlike the tank walls being pushed out.
Part of me felt that way about all the baffles. I was gonna go 1/8" on all of them, but then a heard a bad story from someone on here that had 1/8" crack on him. The thought of braking down the whole thing to recaulk made me opt for 1/4"
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:00 PM   #8
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I have more pix to share and stuff to explain, but my wife jacked the iPad which has all the photos. More to come later.
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:10 AM   #9
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Ok, so here are a couple of tools I made to help me with getting the baffles in. They are modifications based on stuff that I saw on YouTube videos. I attached some rubber tubing to my caulk gun and duct taped the other end to a stick. I think this should help me get caulk into the joints between the baffles where there is only an inch of room. I saw a guy use the tUbing on his gun on the Internet, but he didn't have the stick which seemed to make it messier. Patent pending...

The second one is to help me scrape up the excess caulk from the joints. It is a scoopula from our labs at school (I am a science teacher, remember high school chemistry?) attached to a stick. The curved metal mimics a glazer's tool that they use to clean up joints (again based on a YouTube video). It should allow me to get nice clean joint and hopefully no leaks!
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:14 AM   #10
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Ok last one is my lights. I went cheap with these. Clip on lights from home depot for $6 a pop and a 2 pack of cfl flood lights for $12. The bulbs are listed as 5000k which should work well for growing Chaeto.

Just waiting on the glass which should be ready on Friday. I will probably get the baffles in on Saturday, and maybe get this bad boy running early next week.
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