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Old 02-03-2014, 09:37 PM   #31
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So I'm a diy kinda guy and have envisioned a very nice pure 2x4 stand for my 75g tank. I know I should explain myself a bit more but I just don't know how so, ill just show you soon. The basic concept is a pure 2x4 look on the outside with a door or 2 with a nice gloss finish over it to hold the beauty of the natural wood. I'm not into staining wood, it kills the look for me but ill start this soon. Thoughts/ideas good or bad are always welcome! Pics coming soon after I square the cost away!
If you have a jointer, I'd buy 2x10s and cut them down to 4" and square up the edges with the jointer. The sharp corners look sooooo much better than the dressed edges from the mill. I'll be waiting for results, OP.

This is my stand. It's 100% southern yellow pine. No stain, just polyurethane.
The next one I build will be a more conventional design with cabinet space below it though. Doh!

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Old 02-03-2014, 09:38 PM   #32
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not if you pre drill with counter sink, I don't glue cedar because it moves so much( shrinks and expands with moisture) I glue hard wood and pine, it bonds extremely well especially when used with nails or screws.
So this is a silly question but since cedar is a side wood, doesn't that make it a bit lighter in weight compared to that of oak or pine?
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:39 PM   #33
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If you have a jointer, I'd buy 2x10s and cut them down to 4" and square up the edges with the jointer. The sharp corners look sooooo much better than the dressed edges from the mill. I'll be waiting for results, OP.

This is my stand. It's 100% southern yellow pine. No stain, just polyurethane.
The next one I build will be a more conventional design with cabinet space below it though. Doh!
Wow I like that wood!!!!
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:54 PM   #34
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Wow I like that wood!!!!
Thanks. The top is glued 1x6 clear stock (no knots). It's more expensive than the framing lumber, though drove my materials cost up to $48. I bought (2) 2x10x10,
(1) 2x8x10, (2)1x6x10 clear, (1) 1x6x6 clear. I didn't actually need 2 2x10s, because I measured wrong.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:12 PM   #35
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Thanks. The top is glued 1x6 clear stock (no knots). It's more expensive than the framing lumber, though drove my materials cost up to $48. I bought (2) 2x10x10,
(1) 2x8x10, (2)1x6x10 clear, (1) 1x6x6 clear. I didn't actually need 2 2x10s, because I measured wrong.
I think I'm measuring a bit wrong too! I wanna angle the corners so its nice but that's complicated for me! The stand its self will be 52"x20"
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:35 PM   #36
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I think I'm measuring a bit wrong too! I wanna angle the corners so its nice but that's complicated for me! The stand its self will be 52"x20"
My dad is "storing" a planer/jointer for my uncle so I had access to it.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:48 PM   #37
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My dad is "storing" a planer/jointer for my uncle so I had access to it.
Sounds useful! Can I borrow it! What exactly is that?
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:16 PM   #38
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Weathered cedar looks good yes, but you aren't going to get that weathered look indoors with out the light. You can make artificial weathering DIY to get that silvery gray look but weathered cedar is far from the warmth new cedar.

Jointer is used to joint edges and face of a board. Used to square stock. A planer is used once you get a squared face from the jointer to plane stock to desired thickness.

If the stand is built from 2x4 no need to go with 3/4 thick ply. You can go with 1/4 veneer with no issues. I used one sheet for the 75 gallon stand I built and I think it was around 45 (cherry). Likely going to spend more on cedar based on the last cedar I bought to build our bench/privacy screen on our patio. Also most places will have a scratched, bad corner, etc.. bin and veneer ply always makes it way there. Will save a little because will need moldings to cover stuff up.

This stand used 4x4 and 2x4 frame. I used half lap joints on the 2x4 and 4x4 connections. Dowels were used on the vertical 2x4. I used 3/4 for the top and bottom (because needed to thin stuff out of the shop).



After that I used 1/4 thick birch veneer ply and a quality glue to cover the inside of the stand and a few coats of polyurethane. I wrapped the outside stand in the 1/4 cherry veneer and took a few boards of cherry and made my moldings to wrap the edges and make door frames.



Couple coats of poly and let nature takes its course on the cherry and it will develop the rich color.

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Old 02-04-2014, 08:02 AM   #39
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Very nice work lep! But again op is trying to keep things cheap and easy, for lack of a better term. While your builds look outstanding there is no way to accomplish that for under $100, a sheet of 1/4" veneer cherry is atleast $30-$35 itself. Let's not try and turn this into a contest or else I'll have to dig into my portfolio
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:03 AM   #40
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For the cheap factor, you can't beat southern yellow pine from a lumber supplier. It doesn't look terrible either.

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