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Old 08-05-2005, 04:43 PM   #11
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Schematic of the Remote Control box.

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Old 08-05-2005, 04:44 PM   #12
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Schematic of the Power Supply circuit.

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Old 08-05-2005, 04:52 PM   #13
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I will have additional details and information to post later, so please bear with me and do not build this thing before you have all the details. I will let you know when I have posted all the information that you need.

In the meantime, print and review the schematics to understand how they relate to one another. Have fun!!

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Old 08-05-2005, 05:41 PM   #14
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deffintely need to print them all out to see the links together but my first question...

why the time circuit?
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Old 08-05-2005, 05:46 PM   #15
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I have my autotopoff on a timer, otherwise it goes off and on constantly as the water moves.
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyZ
deffintely need to print them all out to see the links together but my first question...

why the time circuit?
The 555 is used as a bistable oscillator. Meaning that it only has two states: ON or OFF. In this circuit, it's main purpose is to act as a "bounce free" switch. You know, as water is flowing it makes waves and would cause erratic operation of the rest of the circuit.

When switch FL2 is activated, the circuit stays on until switch FL1 is off. While between the low level (trigger point) and the high level (reset/off point), it does not matter if the water surface makes the switch go ON and OFF, once it's on it stays on until the reset point.

Is this clear enough? I have a tendency to say a lot when I explain. 8O Refer to my introduction about this topic.

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Old 08-05-2005, 11:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearfan
I have my autotopoff on a timer, otherwise it goes off and on constantly as the water moves.
Sounds like you definitely need my little circuit! What you are experiencing is "switch bouncing", which my little circuit prevents.

As you can see in my previous explanation above, this is one thing that this circuit will not do. Not to mention the fact that you can also burn your pump or solenoid.

Anyway, tag along until the rest of the details are posted.

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Old 08-07-2005, 12:10 AM   #18
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Here is the parts list folks. Most of the parts can be obtained from most electronics supplies store or mail order outfits.



PARTS LIST

RESISTORS: All ½ watt @ 2%

39 Ohms: R9
330 Ohms: R8
360 Ohms: R6
620 Ohms: R5, R7, R12
1 Kilo Ohms: R10, R11
1.5 Kilo Ohms: R2, R3
4.7 Kilo Ohms: R1, R4


CAPACITORS:

C1: 0.01 Microfarad (Disk)
C2: 0.01 Microfarad @ 200 volts (Mylar)
C3: 1000 Microfarads @ 35 volts (Electrolytic)
C4: 10 Microfarads @ 25 volts (Electrolytic)


DISCREET DEVICES:

IC-1: 555 Timer Chip
IC-2: MOC3041 Optoisolator Triac Driver Chip
IC-3: 7805 Voltage Regulator Chip. Rated for 5 volts @ 1 Amp. Case Type: TO-220
Q1: 2N2222 NPN Transistor
Q2: MAC4DLM Triac Chip. Rated for 600 volts @ 4 amps. Case Type: 369D


DIODES/LED:

D1, D5: HLMP4740 Green LED
D4, D6: MV5752 Red LED
D2, D3: Rectifier Diodes. Rated for 125 volts @ 2 amps.

MISCELLANEOUS:

FL1, FL2: Reed Switches – Float Switches Normally Open (NO) Type

S1, S2, S3, S4: Small Toggle Switches – SPST – Rated for 125 volts @ 2 amps minimum.

T1: Power Transformer – 125V/24 volts CT @ 1 amp.

F1: Fuse – 1.5 amp @ 125 volts

Solenoid: Solenoid Rated 24 volts AC @ 500 milliamp.

Circuit Boards – Radio Shack Type.

Some Small Wire – Telephone Type Wire

Some Gauge 14 Cable – Power Cord Type

Some Electronics Solder

Some 6 Wire Cable – Telephone Type Wire

Metal Enclosure to House the Main Circuit Boards and Power Supply.

Some Plastic Standoffs to Support and Isolate your Circuit Boards

Electrician Tape

Plastic Enclosure to House your Remote Control Box

Two Wire Quick Connect (4 Required)

Four Wire Quick Connect (2 Required)

Six Wire Quick Connect (4 Required)

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Old 08-07-2005, 12:14 AM   #19
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If you do not whish to include remote switch S3 (Upstairs), you can skip the installation of the following parts: S3, R12, D5.

If you do not whish to include local switch S4 (Downstairs), you can skip the following parts: S4, D1, R7.

One more thing, in this circuit configuration, the current limitation is 1 amp @ 24 Vac. Limitations set by the power supply and the solenoid. I choosed a 1 amp supply even if my solenoid only require 500 mA, because I also wanted to feed the 5 Vdc supply from the same AC source.

If you want to crank something that uses more amps, you will need to take this into consideration.

That's it.

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Old 08-07-2005, 12:19 AM   #20
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Well, I think you have pretty much all the information required to build this baby. The only warnings I can make are: Beware of over-heating your parts when soldering. This is common reason for circuit failure. Heat is a big killer of home-brew projects. Also pay attention when connecting the integrated circuits, transistor or triac. If wiring is incorrect you can destroy the internal circuits.

The other thing I want to say is be VERY CAREFUL when dealing with live AC power!! And do not forget to ground your metal enclosure!!

Enjoy and happy DIY!!!

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