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Old 08-11-2005, 08:54 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyZ
Thanks Serge! I'd say you're english is just fine.
Well, thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyZ
$50 canadian, right? So I could expect to pay about $75ish U.S. thats not bad.
Umm.... Usually, it works the other way around. Low US price, MUCH higher CDN price. Eh!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyZ
You said, "radio shack type" for the CB; would the following be large enough?
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=276-148
It's not the same type I have but it will certainly do the job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyZ
i had a quick thought. I think U.S. and Canada have the same power supply levels. But just to be sure i won't need to make further adjustments, what is the power coming out of your typical socket in canada?
Yes, we have the same voltage and cycle: 115/120 @ 60 Hz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyZ
any chance we could get a peek at the inside of
yours?
By your command! Check the following pictures. Unfortunately, unlike with my 35 mm, I cannot do macro photography with this digital camera, but it should give a good idea.

HTH
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Old 08-11-2005, 08:55 PM   #32
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Another view of the "remote box"
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Old 08-11-2005, 08:58 PM   #33
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The next four pictures are of the main enclosure. I know.... I know... It looks like a rat's nest.
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Old 08-11-2005, 08:59 PM   #34
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Last two pictures of the main enclosure.

8O
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Old 08-12-2005, 10:43 AM   #35
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Fantasic! Thanks for all the information Serge!

Quote:
Umm.... Usually, it works the other way around. Low US price, MUCH higher CDN price. Eh!
uhhh yea.. I don't know WHERE my head was on that one. I think I just applied the typical 50% backwards. So then 35-40$ is even better!


what are your thoughts on additional resistance/loss of a long run on the float switches? If the leads on those switches were say... 40-50 feet (apx 15 meters), would the additional resistance on the wire call for any adjustments? I'm considering using this rig on an RO unit in my basement, but filling the tank/sump in my living room. The lead runs would be about that length (to keep the run clean)

Thanks yet again!
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Old 08-12-2005, 11:52 AM   #36
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what are your thoughts on additional resistance/loss of a long run on the float switches? If the leads on those switches were say... 40-50 feet (apx 15 meters), would the additional resistance on the wire call for any adjustments? I'm considering using this rig on an RO unit in my basement, but filling the tank/sump in my living room. The lead runs would be about that length (to keep the run clean)
Thanks yet again!
OK, after a little research, here is what you need to know and don't want to know.

Household telephone wire can be either #22 or #24, so here are the technical details about the wire resistance. Loss is minimal as we are dealing with 5 Vdc.

#22 wire: Resistance is 16.14 Ohms for each 1,000 feet of wire, or 0.01614 Ohm a foot.

#24 wire: Resistance is 25.67 Ohms for each 1,000 feet of wire, or 0.02567 Ohm a foot.

So, for 50 feet of wire, you are looking at very little additional resistance to the circuit, which in this case, the switches are connected to either ground or 5 Vdc.

#22 wire - 50 feet: 0.807 Ohm.
#24 wire - 50 feet: 1.2836 Ohm.

HTH

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Old 12-01-2005, 01:05 PM   #37
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DIY Auto Top Off with Solid State Relay - Improved Schematic

Well folks, here is a revised, improved schematic.

After moving in September, it became apparent that the original circuit was very limited and it needed some design improvements to be usefull to other people. The one I actually built will have to be somewhat modified now that my setup is completely different from my previous house.

This version should allow you to just plug in whatever pump you are using into it, and let the float switches control the On/Off phases. There is still a manual overide and the standard On/Off switches.

The section where it indicates SSR Oulet Plug, is in effect an oulet plug on the enclosure of the circuit, allowing you to just plug your pump.

The kiss principle in action.

The previous caveats still applies. Umm... I had to shrink the size of the file as it was too big for the site. If someone wants a larger one, PM me and I will email it to you.

Enjoy!

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Old 12-03-2005, 06:08 AM   #38
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Ok Serge.. Im very impressed.. and almost completely lost
any chance you could give us a thread on electroinics 101 to help learn how to interperate your schematic?
any chance you could explain what the diffent parts do? and maybe a link or two to places were you could obtain the parts?
TIA
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:56 AM   #39
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Hey greenmaji!

Umm, there are many web sites that provide tons of information on electronics basics. Beside, I am not a very good teacher, believe me.

Well, all the information/explanation is already presented in this thread. Check the previous pages. The parts ID on the schematic are the same as in the original parts list, except for a few exceptions where the part has changed but the info is on the new schematic. I would suggest that you print this new schematic, before reading this thread from the beginning, to make it easier to follow the explanations I initially provided. No need to reinvent the wheel.

As for the parts, you have your local Radio Shack, I also ordered from Newarks what I could not find locally. Here is a short list of parts supplier:

Newark: http://www.newark.com/
Jameco: http://www.jameco.com
Mouser: http://www.mouser.com
Global Semi: http://www.globalsemi.com

In my situation, what I could not find at Radio Shack, or a local electronic parts distributor, I just ordered from Newark and got the parts in 3 days. By the way, as a precaution, I always buy two of whatever I purchase, just in case.


But, I will gladly answer specific questions.

Happy DIY and enjoy!

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Old 03-20-2006, 10:28 PM   #40
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Update - Unit is now operational

Hi folks, just thought I would post a few pics of my DIY top off unit. It has been running for the last 3 days. It's so nice now, not having to worry about forgetting that water valve! Hehehe

Cheers!

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