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Old 08-01-2005, 09:52 PM   #1
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DIY Auto Top Off with Solid State Relay

Hey folks, I was rather quiet since I returned from vacation, but I was not idle. I got rather tired of running down and up the basement to start/stop my RODI water production, so I built myself a solid state relay (SSR). It uses a handful of parts, is relatively easy to assemble and can be controlled from either downstair or upstair and can also be set to run automaticaly with float switchs.

If anyone would be interested, let me know and I will post the schematic, explanations and a few pics.

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Old 08-01-2005, 10:11 PM   #2
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I am intrerested I do the same up and down stairs thingy
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:31 PM   #3
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OK folks, I will now awaken this thread. My schematics have been updated and I have enough documentation to start posting stuff here. So it begins.....

As I will progress with this, please feel free to comment or post questions. I will answer as time will allow me. Enjoy!

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Old 08-05-2005, 04:32 PM   #4
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INTRODUCTION

As with many things in life, necessity is the mother of many innovations/inventions. In this particular case, I modified electronic circuits, available on the internet, to suit my personal requirements. My requirements were pretty simple:

Easy to build, minimum amount of parts, reliable, no mechanical relay, keep the 120 Vac away from the salt water area, have visual indication when things are on or off and have remote control of the RO/DI system located in the basement.


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Old 08-05-2005, 04:33 PM   #5
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Unfortunately, I do have to include the section below.

LEGAL DISCLAIMER

I do NOT own rights/patents to any of the circuits or parts thereof, all the original information was obtained from the internet. This was built for my personal use, I am merely sharing this information with others DIY enthusiasts, FREE of charges, for the sake of making this hobby a little easier to manage end enjoy.

Should you decide to build this controller system, you are on your own. I am not and will not be responsible in any way, shape or form for what you do and how you use the information provided. In other words, if you decide to build this, by using the information provided, you agree that I am not and will not be responsible, you assume any and all responsibility, causes, effects, disaster, whatever, that may or may not occur. After assembling this little circuit, it may or may not work for you.

As with anything involving live household voltage/current, one must be diligent and apply the required caution that live AC commands. If you do not know what you are doing, or are not knowledgeable enough, in the fields of electronics or household electricity, do not attempt to build this. Otherwise, enlist the help/assistance of someone that is.

The only thing I can guarantee is that, after spending weeks of bread boarding, integrating, testing and debugging, I have build a working system and it works fine for me.

That being said now, I hope it will be useful for you and will, indeed, make your hobby more enjoyable.

END OF LEGAL DISCLAIMER


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Old 08-05-2005, 04:36 PM   #6
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PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION


When the container is filled at the maximum desired level, both float switches, FL1 and FL2, will be in the "open state". Meaning there is no current flowing through it. As water evaporates, the water level in the container will go down.

When water level gets below a certain level, float switch FL1 will be in the "closed state" allowing current to flow through it. At this point, nothing happens yet, except that the circuit is now ready for action.

Later on, water will go down to a certain level that will also place switch FL2 in the "closed state" allowing current flow. When this happens, the pump will start running to push water where you want it. Either RO/DI water from your prepared water container to your tank, or as in my case, it will activate a solenoid that directly feeds the RO/DI unit, which is connected to a very long plastic tube, which fills up my sump. As the water level rises in the sump, switch FL2 will eventually change to the "open state", but water will continue to flow until the level is high enough to change switch FL1 to the "open state". At this point, the circuit is reset, the pump/solenoid stops until the next time the water level is low enough to activate switch FL2 (closed state).

This is it! This is the basic principle of operation of my automated top off controller. Now, on with the manual modes of this gizmo.


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Old 08-05-2005, 04:37 PM   #7
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LOCAL CONTROL IN BASEMENT

If you would like to fill a container with RO/DI, while you are in the basement, it is easy. The only requirement is that you have a Tee connector and two valves, to redirect the water output to your local water line in the basement. Piece of cake! Open the valve for downstairs output, close the valve for upstairs output, and turn on switch S4 to activate your pump/solenoid. LED D1 will turn on and voila! Sit tight and wait or check later. Do not forget to switch back your two valves when you are done!!

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Old 08-05-2005, 04:38 PM   #8
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REMOTE CONTROL UPSTAIRS

If you would like to fill a container with RO/DI, it is the same principle as explained in the previous paragraph with a few differences. You still require a Tee connector and two valves. One output will be to your sump (normal operation) and the other will be use for manual output. Close the valve for normal operation, open the other valve and turn on switch S3. LED D6 will turn on and your pump/solenoid, downstairs will start. When done, turn off switch S3 and switch back your valves.

NOTE

If you do not desire to have one or the other, or any of the manual features, later I will list the parts that you can skip.

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Old 08-05-2005, 04:42 PM   #9
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Schematic of the switching section.

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Attached Images
File Type: jpg ssr-switching.jpg (91.6 KB, 428 views)
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:43 PM   #10
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Schematic of the Optoisolator/triac circuit.

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File Type: jpg ssr-optotriac.jpg (103.6 KB, 216 views)
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