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Old 09-01-2009, 05:24 PM   #11
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I used straight clear pine 1 by's in different widths to build my canopy. It's light enough for me to handle by myself even with the DIY lighting system in it (Which I also made removable from the canopy) for the days when I have to replace any bulbs, ballasts and or cleaning.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:03 PM   #12
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I used 3/4" cabinet grade plywood for mine with no frame. I wanted my canopy 15" high to accomadate the MH lighting I'm using and AFAIK, you can't get a piece of any wood 15" wide. I have neither the skill or tools to join 2 pieces to make a 15" wide board.

This is the canopy before I put on the doors, stained, painted and sealed it.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:15 PM   #13
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Larry what is AFAIK?
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:12 PM   #14
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:40 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dhemp34 View Post
so i need to create the frame using 1x2's see the diy blueprint intrstruc i used said to nail the wood board on the outside together...although i wasnt to keen on that i didnt know any other way....thats primarily my question. what would do i use and how do i contruct a solid nice canopy..the DYI i researched obviously cost me over 100 bucks and its a piece and so i'd rather be able to post pics and get prof. advice from fellow fish folks
I wouldn't use nails .... bad holding power, splits wood & looks ugly!

Depending on how high your canopy is, you might want to use 1x3's for your frame. <I used solid 1x8" for my sides, then joining that with 1x across the front & back. At the back, I use 2 1x3's, one at the top & one at the bottom, leaving a good sized gap all the way across for ventilation. My front is tapered, so a single 1x joins the front.>

For joinery, I used glued rabbeted joints. reinforced with screws. The rabbeted joints keep the canopy square & prevents shifting. For the top, I simply inset a 1/2" plywood into the frame. I rabbeted the top edges of the frame so the plywood edge is covered with solid wood. The plywood is more stable than solid wood, so when glued into the frame, keeps it flat.

1x's can cup & bow when exposed to moisture, esp. when you don't get furniture grade wood. So it is important to design your joinery to minimize it. I would not use a single piece as a flap door. <You need to use frame & panel construction if you want a flat wood door.> I cheated & use acrylic instead. Also, I use "5/4" stock (1.25" thick nominal, usu. 1-1 1/8" after dressing), this is more stable than the usual 3/4" 1x stuff.
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:15 PM   #16
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Thanks Spoonman, my brain stopped functioning there for a minute.
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:42 PM   #17
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Whew,

I've opened a can of OSCIDI (oh shoot can i do it). LOL...I guess i'm really novice here..cuz you are talking over my head at this point. 1x's etc???..lol...maybe in the end i'll end up cheaper with a store bought because i dont want to pi$$ away another 100 bucks on a build that goes wrong
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:27 AM   #18
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Whew,

I've opened a can of OSCIDI (oh shoot can i do it). LOL...I guess i'm really novice here..cuz you are talking over my head at this point. 1x's etc???..lol...maybe in the end i'll end up cheaper with a store bought because i dont want to pi$$ away another 100 bucks on a build goes wrong
It's not that bad. I used a Brad nailer with 1 1/4 & 1/2 inch finishing nails, 1 1/4 inch deck screws (must drill pilot holes 1st or the wood will split), waterproof carpenters glue and 1"Thick x 4"wide x 8' long, 1"x2"x'8, 1"x2"x8' clear pine. Mind you that a 1 inch x 4 inch x 8' piece of wood is actually 3/4 inch x 3 1/2 inch x 8'. The 5/4 wood Jsoong is talking about is exactly 1 inch thick x 4 inches wide and is a stronger piece of wood as well as being more expensive but good stuff and IMO not necessary for a canopy. The stand I bought from the manufacturer for my 120 is made of 1 by's and is holding about 1500lbs of weight and is put together with glue and staples with no screws in sight. Considering it's only a canopy you should need to go any larger than 1 by's (3/4 inch thick). I didn't make up any sketches or I would give them to you, I just copied the stand design and went to town. Here are some pics of my build, I hope it helps.
The Start


Top frame and panels installed, picture of the back side

Font side

Almost there

Open Back side

With Doors made but not yet installed

Completed on tank
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:21 AM   #19
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2 different methods of construction with a similar result.
I hate you guys with all the fancy tools...lol. Great job and very nice work Keith.
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:34 AM   #20
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2 different methods of construction with a similar result.
I hate you guys with all the fancy tools...lol. Great job and very nice work Keith.
Thanks. If I had a drawing I would of posted it instead but the photo's should give him a good idea how to do it. The tools are courtesy of the handy man special we bought and rebuilt which worked out great because the wife didn't complain once about buying the tools we needed due to the 300K we saved doing it ourselves.
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