DIY Canopy Plans

[noteworthy]

Hola!

I have come up with some plans for a canopy and need a critique about a few things.

Here are my plans:

Needed:
2- 49 1/2" X 12" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Front/Back
2 - 13" x 12" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Sides
1 - 8" x 49 1/2" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Lights
1 - 5 1/2" x 49 1/2" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Feeding
1 - 3" x 48 1/2" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Support Beam
10 - 2" L brackets
40- 1/2" Screws
4 - Hinges & Screws

How will this sit on my aquarium? Should I use wood blocks inside the canopy sides to sit on the aquarium or some sort of L bracket?

 

[greenmaji]

blocks on the inside sides and possibley design the front to swing open without the sides so the blocks can go front to back. it seems like I need to draw something.. LOL

 

[noteworthy]

I really don't want the front to swing open but I'm afraid my two hinged doors on top will not allow enough room for lighting reflectors

 

[greenmaji]

I was thinking the same thing.. like you would have to add a suspended board to mount the light on in the middle.. making the need for it being that high well not needed..
maybe you could go with just the front edge of it opening?

 

[BillyZ]

not only that but every time you need to do any maintenance, adjust a rock/PH etc you have no easy access into the tank. I would suggest making it so the front swings open.

With a little extra time planning it out, you can easily make it so the fact that it opens is not visible. You can get internal hinges, even locking hinges, so there's nothing on the outside. Look for locking toy-box hinges or saftey hinges.

 

[noteworthy]

Well I have seriously been thinking about changing my design on the canopy. I think I'll make a solid top that is 14 x 49 1/2 inches that the lights will be in. I will use a hidden hinge that you can't see from outside. Then the front panel of the canopy will be attached to the top with a locking hidden hinge. The hinge will allow the front to fold out straight with the top but will not allow it to fold down and hit the lights when the whole thing is raised.


I want to be able to pull forward the canopy side without having to raise the top. If I do pull up the top then the side will just go up with it and stay in the L shape as to not hit and damage my light bulbs.

I'm going to use magnetic contacts to hold the side panel down against the canopy so there is no 'movement' with it.

Under the canopy their will be a ballast, 4 PC bulbs, reflector, Moon Light 3 led setup, couple of fans, and an atx power supply.

Should the fans be in/out or out/out?


Anyone know where I can get a glass top for a standard 55 gallon tank for relatively little money? Then I'll be left with a standard top with NO bulbs that equal 40w.

 

[greenmaji]

you can wire ballasts and other such things under your canopy through power cords.. I wouldnt want them in my canopy.. but thats just me maybe, Id be afraid they would get water damage.

 

[noteworthy]

My choices are under canopy, mounted on back of canopy.. or under fish tank stand.

 

[DeFeKt]

yea i wouldn't put ur ballast inside the canopy.
oh and cheers for the ideas, i'm building one soon.

 

[greenmaji]

I would put them under the stand and as far away from the sump as I could.. of those options.

 

[DeFeKt]

Anyone know where I can get a glass top for a standard 55 gallon tank for relatively little money?

Yea, $6, but shipping would cost you a fortune

 

[greenmaji]

I didnt even see that.. good eye defekt..
I wouldnt think you would want to cover your tank considering your going to be doing a reef setup..
some use eggcrate from the hardware store
as far as using NO for reef tanks.. uuhh.. I would be more inclined to say its possible if you overdrive about 3-4 of them to 4X.. and that would be with T-8 bulbs.
I might be using 4 on mine.. I went ahead and ordered the ballasts off of e-bay. so I might as well try it..