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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice Freak
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DIY Canopy Plans
Hola!
I have come up with some plans for a canopy and need a critique about a few things. Here are my plans: ![]() Needed: 2- 49 1/2" X 12" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Front/Back 2 - 13" x 12" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Sides 1 - 8" x 49 1/2" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Lights 1 - 5 1/2" x 49 1/2" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Feeding 1 - 3" x 48 1/2" (1/2" Treated Plywood) - Support Beam 10 - 2" L brackets 40- 1/2" Screws 4 - Hinges & Screws How will this sit on my aquarium? Should I use wood blocks inside the canopy sides to sit on the aquarium or some sort of L bracket? |
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#2 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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blocks on the inside sides and possibley design the front to swing open without the sides so the blocks can go front to back. it seems like I need to draw something.. [acronym:46c7aa5a25="Laughing out loud"]LOL[/acronym:46c7aa5a25]
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#4 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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I was thinking the same thing.. like you would have to add a suspended board to mount the light on in the middle.. making the need for it being that high well not needed..
maybe you could go with just the front edge of it opening? |
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#5 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Moderator
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not only that but every time you need to do any maintenance, adjust a rock/[acronym:c826c7cb18="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]PH[/acronym:c826c7cb18] etc you have no easy access into the tank. I would suggest making it so the front swings open.
With a little extra time planning it out, you can easily make it so the fact that it opens is not visible. You can get internal hinges, even locking hinges, so there's nothing on the outside. Look for locking toy-box hinges or saftey hinges.
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Acronyms and Abbreviations |
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#6 |
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Aquarium Advice Freak
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Well I have seriously been thinking about changing my design on the canopy. I think I'll make a solid top that is 14 x 49 1/2 inches that the lights will be in. I will use a hidden hinge that you can't see from outside. Then the front panel of the canopy will be attached to the top with a locking hidden hinge. The hinge will allow the front to fold out straight with the top but will not allow it to fold down and hit the lights when the whole thing is raised.
I want to be able to pull forward the canopy side without having to raise the top. If I do pull up the top then the side will just go up with it and stay in the L shape as to not hit and damage my light bulbs. I'm going to use magnetic contacts to hold the side panel down against the canopy so there is no 'movement' with it. Under the canopy their will be a ballast, 4 [acronym:64c0cc3ebb="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:64c0cc3ebb] bulbs, reflector, Moon Light 3 led setup, couple of fans, and an atx power supply. Should the fans be in/out or out/out? Anyone know where I can get a glass top for a standard 55 gallon tank for relatively little money? Then I'll be left with a standard top with [acronym:64c0cc3ebb="Normal Output Fluorescents"]NO[/acronym:64c0cc3ebb] bulbs that equal 40w. |
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#7 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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you can wire ballasts and other such things under your canopy through power cords.. I wouldnt want them in my canopy.. but thats just me maybe, Id be afraid they would get water damage.
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#9 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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yea i wouldn't put ur ballast inside the canopy.
oh and cheers for the ideas, i'm building one soon.
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Dimidiochromis compressiceps, Astatotilapia latifasciata Melanochromis cyaneorhabdos Labidochromis caeruleus Cynotilapia afra 'Cobue' Pseudotropheus acei 'Msuli Point' Aulunocara stuartgranti 'chipoka' Labidochromis freibergi Oreochromis mossambicus Etroplus suratensis |
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#10 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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I would put them under the stand and as far away from the sump as I could.. of those options.
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