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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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DIY CO2 question about check valve
I am an idiot
Anyhow, question is : which check valve do you guys use? plastic ones (the ones available at pet stores) or metallic? (if metallic where can I buy metallic ones) -- also where do I put the valves --BEFORE the T joint or AFTER it? -- so basically one valve per bottle or 1 per 2 bottles?[/img]
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55 Gallon FW Eco-complete Substrate Equipment : In-line heater, RENA XP3 filter, 130 Watts Fluroscent Plants - Hygrophila polysperma "sunset", Bacopa caroliniana,Bacopa australis,Rotala rotundifolia "colorata", Water Sprite, Ludwigia repens,Hydrocotyle verticillata, Swords, Stargrass, Anubias Nana, Petite Nana, Dwarf Sagittaria, LUDWIGIA ARCUATA,Micranthemum umbrosum Fish - 3 Bolivian Rams, 2 Australian rainbowfish, 6 Bloodfin tetras , 4 julii cory cats, 1 Ottos,1 Bristle nose Pl*co Read my aquarium autobiography at http://www.swanandmokashi.com/HomePa.../Aquarium.aspx |
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#2 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Iowa USA
Posts: 5,390
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When I was using DIY CO2, I used the plastic ones and never had any problems with them. You do have to replace them about once a year since the CO2 will slowly break down the plastic. You can put them before or after the T connector, it's mostly personal preference. I preferred putting them before the T so that the rest of the system would stay pressurized when changing out one of the bottles.
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~Joy 10 Gallon Planted Photo Log - 5.5 Gallon Planted Photo Log - 2.5 Gallon Planted Photo Log - Pico Planted Photo Log |
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#3 | |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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Quote:
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#4 |
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 325
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I think using two individual check valves is also better because in the event that the check valve gets stopped up, you will only have one bottle adding pressure on it, instead of two...
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--- 75 Gallon Rena FilStar xP3, Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200W (2), Coralife 48" Aqualight 260W 6700K --- 10 Gallon Hexagon Hagen AquaClear 30, Visi-Therm Deluxe 50, DIY CF 20W 6500K CF, Hagen Natural CO2 System :: Bloodfin Tetra (1), Red-eye Tetra (3), Black Skirt Tetra (3), Harlequin Rasbora (6), Platy (1), Otocinclus Catfish (1) :: Rotala Indica, Hygrophila Difformis (Wisteria), Cabomba Carolinia --- |
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#5 |
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 138
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This might be a really dumb or n00bish question but here it goes.. <_<
>_> Which way are the check valve suppose to go? I never really known because I always bought them in bulk so I never got to see the instructions. I'm also a little confused. How does a check valve help a bottle keep it's pressure? Maybe I'm thinking of something else. Check Valve Gang Valve ![]() I could understand how the gang valve can be closed and let the bottle keep it's pressure but not the check valve. I did my 1st DIY Co2 system today and I added two check valves and a gang valve to it. The gangV was put on the edge of the back of the tank with a checkV right underneath it so that water won't siphon up the tube. The 2nd check valve was put on the tube that went from the back of the gangV to the bubble counter cause I had the impression that the water from the bubble counter and/or the sugar/yeast mixture could siphon up the tube and contaminate my tank. I could be wrong. After about 5 to 6 hours I notice that no gas was going into my tank. Then I realized that the checkV only allows air to enter one side and out the other. Not the other way around. I had placed the checkV at the top with the "V" rubber center thing facing down as well as the other one near the bubble counter. It's kind of hard to explain so I drew a pic. Sorry my digital cam batteries ran out and I lost my charger. ![]() As you can see, the lower checkV wouldn't allow the gas to go into the tank so I turned it around and hopefully I'll be able to get Co2 into my tank tomorrow. |
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#6 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Iowa USA
Posts: 5,390
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In a more standard setup where the two generator bottles are connected by a T and go to the same CO2 diffuser, if you unhook one bottle the entire system will loose pressure. If you place a check valve between the T and the diffuser, when you change a bottle both bottles and the line upto the check valve will loose pressure but the line between the check valve and the diffuser will stay pressurized. Now if you use two check valves one between each bottle and the T, then only the bottle being changed and the line to its check valve will loose pressure, but the other bottle and the line leading to the diffuser will stay pressurized.
Hope that makes more sense.
__________________
~Joy 10 Gallon Planted Photo Log - 5.5 Gallon Planted Photo Log - 2.5 Gallon Planted Photo Log - Pico Planted Photo Log |
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#7 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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The very reason a check valve exists is to prevent backflow, either fluid or gas/air... SO when you have it setup the way Purrbox describes w/ one check valve on each bottle before the "T" and you remove a bottle, the pressure from the system should shut the open valve...
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#8 |
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 325
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the "arrow" thing in the checkvalve is the direction of airflow. If you need to, you can do a simple blow test.
__________________
--- 75 Gallon Rena FilStar xP3, Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200W (2), Coralife 48" Aqualight 260W 6700K --- 10 Gallon Hexagon Hagen AquaClear 30, Visi-Therm Deluxe 50, DIY CF 20W 6500K CF, Hagen Natural CO2 System :: Bloodfin Tetra (1), Red-eye Tetra (3), Black Skirt Tetra (3), Harlequin Rasbora (6), Platy (1), Otocinclus Catfish (1) :: Rotala Indica, Hygrophila Difformis (Wisteria), Cabomba Carolinia --- |
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#9 | |
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 138
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Quote:
Today I changed my DIY Co2 system a bit. I removed one of the check valves and the bubble counter and I added an air control valve between each bottle and T valve. Everything seems to work alot better and I'm actually getting Co2 in my tank now! Today I also made a DIY powerhead type filter using a water pump, a gravel cleaner, and floss. It came out awesome but it's way to powerful. The flow moved my gravel and pulled out some plants. |
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#10 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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actually I have a spare powerhead -- how can I use it with my CO2 system?
__________________
55 Gallon FW Eco-complete Substrate Equipment : In-line heater, RENA XP3 filter, 130 Watts Fluroscent Plants - Hygrophila polysperma "sunset", Bacopa caroliniana,Bacopa australis,Rotala rotundifolia "colorata", Water Sprite, Ludwigia repens,Hydrocotyle verticillata, Swords, Stargrass, Anubias Nana, Petite Nana, Dwarf Sagittaria, LUDWIGIA ARCUATA,Micranthemum umbrosum Fish - 3 Bolivian Rams, 2 Australian rainbowfish, 6 Bloodfin tetras , 4 julii cory cats, 1 Ottos,1 Bristle nose Pl*co Read my aquarium autobiography at http://www.swanandmokashi.com/HomePa.../Aquarium.aspx |
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