Go Back   Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community > General Aquarium Forums > DIY Projects
Click Here to Login

Join Aquarium Advice Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com
 
Old 01-15-2006, 08:15 PM   #1
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Wizzard~Of~Ozz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,039
Send a message via MSN to Wizzard~Of~Ozz
DIY Filtration.

I've been working out which way to inject Co2 and I figured I would just make it part of a filtration system. so the design is this.



Flow rate should be around 150GPH, tho I may have to reduce it so it doesn't blow all the sand out of the fluidized bed.

each tube is 17.5" high, and 4.5" in diameter (maybe 4") and uses 1/2" ID tubing. It will take some messing around with the sand to mark the levels, but it should provide huge biological filtration. I may also consider adding a UV sterilizer down the road between the Co2 chamber and the fluidized bed.

A) do you think this will provide adequate filtration for a 125Gal (it will also have a fluval 304 on the tank) (best answer I can find is that the fluidized bed should handle about 300Gal)

B) Is 150GPH enough flow to effectively inject Co2 into this tank? (pressurized Co2) or should I move it to a seperate powerhead @ 295GPH.

Thanks for any info. (I accidentally posted this over in FW General, but I guess it belongs here.)
__________________

__________________
Wizzard~Of~Ozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2006, 01:18 PM   #2
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 6,015
Send a message via AIM to greenmaji
I saw it in FW general.. I thought about it but didnt post..

Im not so sure you would need a hole reaction chamber for the CO2 injection..
If it was injected at the begining of the first chamber in the loop what would happen?
__________________

__________________
greenmaji is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2006, 02:51 PM   #3
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 320
I agree with green magi; your fluidized bed should provide plenty of room for bacteria; you should be able to drop the last chamber and inject at the first.

Actually I would consider injecting before the pump-impellors tend to knock bubbles apart very well.
__________________
10 gallon 2.6 WPG, CO2 supplemented.

3 Dwarf Puffers, 3 Ghost Shrimp, 3 Otos

Planted with Java Fern, C. retrospiralis, Java moss, chistmas moss, L. repens, R. rotundifolia, Wisteria, C. wendtii, C. lucen, S. subulata, M. heterophyllum, C. carolina
BlazerFRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2006, 03:17 PM   #4
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 6,015
Send a message via AIM to greenmaji
I was to consider injecting CO2 before pump; I was thinking about that. If its a good pump (like a MAG or something) then using a redusing line on the CO2 line, the ones used for in tank ordements, I think its 1/16th inch line, would help prevent airlock..

I couldn't figure out punctuation for the above writing so please excuse its strageness.. LOL..

anyway.. HTH
__________________
greenmaji is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2006, 05:54 PM   #5
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Wizzard~Of~Ozz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,039
Send a message via MSN to Wizzard~Of~Ozz
Problem I had was 2 fold, 1, the flow is backwards for the other 2 (top to bottom is required), bioballs are just there to break up the bubbles. also putting it first makes it the mech. filtration so the balls would collect leave pieces and such..

I will be adding the Co2 directly to a chamber, but what else could I put in a chamber that doesn't restrict flow and allows top-bottom flow?

(sorry about having 2 threads going, figured DIY was more appropriate.)
__________________
120 Gal SW, 150lbs Prem. Fiji, 23Gal Sump, 2x250w 15K MH, 4x65w Actinic
3 x Halichoeres Chrysus (1 surfed), 3 x Nemateleotris magnifica, 1 x Centropyge bicolor, 11 x Scarlet Hermits, 6 x Zebra Hermits, 40 x Astrea Snails, 6 x Nassarius Snails, 3 x Cerith Snails
Wizzard~Of~Ozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2006, 01:34 PM   #6
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 320
I don't think top to bottom flow is required to diffuse the co2. The sponge filters and fluidized bed should break the bubbles up plenty. JMO. If you're set on injecting into your cannisters, I'd do it at the bottom of the sponge one.

I do think the simplest solution would be to inject into the pump's inflow tho. Impellers do a nice job breaking up bubbles

Quote:
also putting it first makes it the mech. filtration so the balls would collect leave pieces and such..
Maybe i've misunderstood your diagram; you want to put the bioballs first? I thought "out to tank" would mean the filter output to the tank, so flow would be the other way...

Anyway I doubt bioballs would do much mechanical filtration, I think a sponge is your best bet for that. I'd probably put a sponge prefilter on the inlet hose anyway to prevent anything big from getting sucked through your filter's impeller. Lot easier to clean that way too, IMO.
__________________
10 gallon 2.6 WPG, CO2 supplemented.

3 Dwarf Puffers, 3 Ghost Shrimp, 3 Otos

Planted with Java Fern, C. retrospiralis, Java moss, chistmas moss, L. repens, R. rotundifolia, Wisteria, C. wendtii, C. lucen, S. subulata, M. heterophyllum, C. carolina
BlazerFRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2006, 03:09 PM   #7
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Wizzard~Of~Ozz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,039
Send a message via MSN to Wizzard~Of~Ozz
Sorry, to clarify a little, I will be using bioballs with a downward flow to force the absorbtion (absolutely no bubbles will make it to the tank).. while "breaking them up" is important with most inlines, when trying to push bubbles down in water it will be broken up and absorbed, never "blown out".. Breaking it up early will make little to no difference AFAIK, bubbles all float (and are being pushed down, not helped up and out), (look at an Aquamedic 1000 reactor, same design less then 1/2 the price)

After thinkin about the fludized bed, I may use gravel instead, or something that doesn't compact as tightly. I heard if the power fails or the pump is turned off for more then an hour, your bacteria will start to die.. tho I'll have to research this a little more first.

a great article on fluidized beds.

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/...d_Filters.html

Which looks like I'll continue with the sand route. This could be fun NOW HURRY UP SHIPPING COMPANIES, I WANT TO PLAY.....
__________________
Wizzard~Of~Ozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2006, 01:19 AM   #8
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 320
If you do end up using bioballs they would probably hold enough bacteria to jump-start a re-cycle after a long power outage. even a regular filter would probably exp. a signifigant die off after a long power outage, as fish wastes are no longer being actively caried to the colony.
__________________
10 gallon 2.6 WPG, CO2 supplemented.

3 Dwarf Puffers, 3 Ghost Shrimp, 3 Otos

Planted with Java Fern, C. retrospiralis, Java moss, chistmas moss, L. repens, R. rotundifolia, Wisteria, C. wendtii, C. lucen, S. subulata, M. heterophyllum, C. carolina
BlazerFRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2006, 02:11 AM   #9
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cleveland ohio
Posts: 361
Send a message via ICQ to JProx Send a message via AIM to JProx
i was going to post ealier, but does the design go from right to left, where water enters in via the bio ball area and is replaced to the tank from the sponge area or am i just a little confused?

all filters will experience bacterial die off from a power outage, but it can take a few hours for it to happen. the only expection is live rock and it will have die back too but it will take much longer to happen.

are you planning on diy'ing the bed filter ?

you might want to check out the rainbow line of filters, your design has alot of similarity to theirs, it might be a good way to check out what they have done to overcome some minor problems.
__________________
JProx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2006, 08:18 AM   #10
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Wizzard~Of~Ozz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,039
Send a message via MSN to Wizzard~Of~Ozz
It's left to right, And I've looked at the Pentair Aquatics model of virtually the same thing.

I've been looking at the Pentair one, Thsi is 250$ cheaper for me to build so I took the rough idea from what they offered and adapted it to use cheaper modules.

The plus side to this is I can use anything that would go in one of their modules.. The pressure guage looks like a good idea (to mark when to change the filter media)..

I'm hoping that I can put a micron filter in this one if I want to, making it almost a diatom filter aswell. I can also add modules, and put an adapter allowing for drain and fill to the filter (no more sticking hoses in the tank).. I think this will work out with so many benefit's and no real drawbacks.

Blazer, you are right, every closed filter system suffers the same dieoff from a power outage, oxygen starvation, it's just a question of how much die off there will be. I can also add an emergency pump that runs off a battery inline with the main pump, it will keep water moving at a slower rate, but it will still be moving. We'll have to see how the final turnout is to see what all I've added (I could also put a PVC tube in there to add my heater inline)
__________________

__________________
Wizzard~Of~Ozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
diy, filtration

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY Plywood tank, with INLINE filtration? LoogieLV DIY Projects 40 11-11-2008 07:00 PM
Filtration issues, or lack-there-of filtration... penelope Freshwater & Brackish - Getting Started 9 03-02-2008 08:22 PM
DIY Tap Water Filtration & pH Reduction Kinetix DIY Projects 9 11-08-2005 05:29 PM
DIY Background Tile Weight Question NOT A DIY PROJECT jThessin General Hardware/Equipment Discussion 4 11-01-2005 10:35 AM







» Photo Contest Winners








Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.