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Old 07-21-2010, 04:15 PM   #31
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I'm not adding the bicarb to the tank. It's actually similar to a yeast generator, but instead of using yeast, you use baking powder. In order to control rate, you control how much water is added to the reactor. You'll only need to add more bicarb (change the "reactants" out) when the baking powder is used up. It's similar to the yeast reactor this way too, except you don't have to worry about keeping the yeast alive (or anything for that matter), I'm guessing it will last longer, and you will have more control over how much co2 is released (how much water is dripped into the powder.)
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:35 PM   #32
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Decomp of H2CO3 is very miniscule. You aren't going to get sufficient co2. The amount that comes out of the solution won't be enough. You are not only fighting the bonds of the H and Co3 but also the partial pressure of the actual solution(which is lowered) and the atmospheric pressure. In short, it probably won't work sufficiently well. EI: the combined pressure of built up gas against the water and the high humidity and high concentrations will all combine to equillibriate at an undesirable point.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:00 PM   #33
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Baking powder is baking soda + dry acid. When you add water, you release the acid, so you will get 1 mole co2 per mole of baking soda. This reaction will be done at room temperature, or maybe higher if I want to heat it with my light.

If I want to be able to control the reaction even more, I could start using vinegar or some other acid instead of baking powder, and dilute it until I get the right amount of co2?

I'm guessing i'll need something to absorb the extra water, so maybe use some bentonite clay (well digger's mud) or a sponge at the top or bottom of the reactor.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:23 PM   #34
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Acid is probably your best best. A weak dilution of vinegar is going to generate the most co2 consistantly. Only problem now is convenience. How often are you going to refuel it? a 20# tank of co2 lasts 6months-year on a 10gal. Yeast lasts about 1 month- 2 months.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:34 PM   #35
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It depends on the byproducts of the reaction. I think you'll be able to create a very long lasting reactor with this method, just you need to find a way to control the byproducts. I believe that you just get a salt, and if it's water soluble, I may be able to get rid of it using the sponge/bentonite, The bentonite is used for oil spills in shops and when kids throw up, and I'm hoping it will absorb all the excess liquid after the reaction takes place, and hopefully absorb the salt (sodium acetate). If I can keep the contact point between the new vinegar and the baking soda free of salt and water, I think it will increase my chances of success by alot. And I'll be able to continue to add vinegar until the baking soda is all used up, or the contact point is covered by sodium acetate.

I wasn't aware yeast lasted that long. 2-4 weeks are the numbers I'm used to.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:23 PM   #36
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Looking at some leds now,

From this site
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/xlamp7090xr-e_b&l.pdf

and the graph, that means I want a WC, WF, or WN right? 6700K is the optimum temperature?
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:39 AM   #37
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You probably want to go with XR-E's
http://ledsupply.com/docs/cree-xre.pdf
I think a mix of cool white and neutral white would work.
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:28 PM   #38
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Since I can't edit my posts in this forum, here are more links

Designing and Building a LED Fixture
Ultimate LED guide - Nano-Reef.com Forums
Comprehensive DIY LED Project List - Nano-Reef.com Forums
Cheap LED Light?
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...tml#post547327

As of right now, I'm probably going with the cree xre p4/q5's. I'm thinking neutral white is a little bit too yellow? Or maybe not..
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:24 PM   #39
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LED Experimental Tank (to be started later) - Page 7 - DIY Aquarium Projects - Aquatic Plant Central

I think I found my guideline. It isn't a wpg guideline, but rather a sipled (square inches per led) guideline.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Keeper View Post
Sorry I've been gone, But regarding how many LEDs you need for a tank, a good rule of thumb I've devised is for low-medium light, 1 LED per 24 square inches of surface area of the tank. I.E. my 29g has 15 LEDs over with the top having a surface area of 360 square inches. Higher light would be in the 1:18^2" or for insane light 1:12^2" ratio.

Do not attempt to use Lumens as a rule of thumb, as LEDs get better at emitting light, keep in mind PAR levels may or may not jump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Keeper View Post
Evil, I do run just 6500K, I'm not sure I want to run anything else, nor am I sure that anything else is required. I think the red is hyped a little bit much, most people run 6500K PCs without much issue, and I think that a case could be made that LEDs put out more reds and blues than their fluorescent counterparts.

That said, I am beginning to think that the planted aquarium could stand a little bit more red to help in the root system (most reds are used to help drive the root system from what I've red). I may or may not add a few reds to try and prove that theory.

Andy..... Its really hard to say, the 1:24^2 inches ratio is deff not medium, not when I'm dosing ferts every other day or so, with DIY CO2, in a 29g tank, where 2 bottles isn't giving me 30PPM. I suspect its borderline high light, medium would probably be 1:30^2"-1:36^2", its really hard to say without a PAR meter. 60 is deff in the high range though, going higher without CO2 is not adviseable.

Mileage may vary by tank depth of course, my tank is 17-18 deep.

With all that said and done, anyone the Greenville/Spartanburg area with a PAR meter be willing to lend it to me for a day or two get some numbers on my rig?
Currently, I'm planning on 8-10 leds. I can do 2 strings of 4/5 or 3 strings of 3. As the tank is 20x10, having a 2x4 string setup sounds like it will have the best "uniformity". So, using p4's, that will probably cost around $28-$35. I haven't decided on how I'm going to heatsink it yet, either one big one or a few small ones.

Not 100% on power supply either...yet

I'm also wondering, if the cool white and neutral white run the same voltage, can I put them on the same string as the cool whites? I'm thinking maybe 20-30% neutrals now that I've seen some tanks with that on them.
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:57 AM   #40
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What are the advantages of LEDs in a FW system? How much does this look to end up costing?

Do you see, at some point in the future, an "idiot's guide" type thing? IE, how anyone can learn the cycle even if they don't understand the science behind it... will LED aquarium lighting get to the "do x, y, z, and you're good to go" level any time in the near future?
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