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Old 07-24-2010, 03:08 AM   #41
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The main advantage isn't electricity usage as alot of people think, but the longevity of the led. Most leds are rated at around 100,000 hours, unlike cf and mh bulbs which only last about a year before they start dimming or slipping spectrum. The leds will cost $30-40, the power supply looks to be around $45, the heatsink probably around $50.

Once leds become more mainstream, I'm sure there will be a wpg-type rule. I posted earlier the sipled "guideline", which is basically the only reasonable guide there is right now. PAR is the best right now, and I read PUR is even better, but testing tools are expensive, and hard to find, and lumens doesn't measure the light plants can use, but what we see. I think lux is a better measurement, but I'm not sure how these are measured.
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:13 AM   #42
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sent you a pm, sorry to interrupt, can you help?

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Originally Posted by krap101 View Post
I think it's about time I finally started this. I'm probably going to be running 12ish 3w leds (3.7v ~800ma) for a total of ~3.6wpg and diy co2. Since I can't take my 29 or my 40B with me to school, I want to be able to continue my planted tank at school, and 10 gallons don't have very good lighting to start with.

I'm also considering finally starting my baking soda co2 system. When you heat baking soda, it releases co2, but it needs to be pretty hot. I'm wondering if could run copper pipes from the heatsink to a container with the baking soda, and use the heat from the leds to power my co2. If not, I can use a peltier (thermo electric cooling) where you run it at 12V, one side gets very hot, and the other gets very cool. Electricity isn't a problem, so the efficiency of the peltier shouldn't be an issue. One problem I see possibly is condensation, but we can worry about that later. I guess baking powder can come in a liquid activated form, where when you add a liquid, it will begin releasing co2. This could work very well for this application. Either add the liquid at the beginning, add a needle valve and some container that can keep up with the pressure.

I'll post a little more once I get my budget approved (parents) and find a suitable power source. If I make two strings of 6 leds, that'd be 1.6A and a little over 22V, which is reasonable. I'm hoping to be able to be close enough to the power supply voltage to be able to not have to have a resistor in the series, but any suggestions will be helpful

Thanks!

see title, i can delete this post later.... again sorry to interrupt...
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:31 AM   #43
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Okay, I ordered 10 Cree xr-e Q2 in the wc bin (6350-7000k). If I'm able to attach two "strings" to one meanwell, I'll go that route, but otherwise, I think I'll go the dimmable buckpuck route.

I'm contacting DX right now to add 2 more leds to my order. Right now, I think 3 strings of 4 leds (14.8V and 3.2A) with the ability to add a fourth string.
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:06 PM   #44
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I've changed to 2x6 with a 24V 2.5A psu, that way I can add fans without worrying about resistors. I've also just ordered 15 thermal adhesive pads (in case I screw up) from nanotuners. Once I get everything, I don't think assembly should take too long, but it'll be awhile for pictures, since dx is in China
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:57 PM   #45
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What I was thinking.

If I had my laptop, I could render it up all nice, I might get to that later for fun. :p

Aluminum plate with offset acrylic shield. Fans mounted up a little to draw air across the plate.
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Old 07-31-2010, 04:18 AM   #46
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That looks awesome. I was wondering what dimensions I should get it in and if there was a good place to get it?
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Old 08-01-2010, 02:28 PM   #47
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I bought my koralia evo nano today, should be here by thursday. It sounds like a pretty good design.
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Old 08-01-2010, 05:22 PM   #48
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Results for Heat Sinks

They now offer DRILLED AND TAPPED heatsinks! Dangit I wish they had that a month ago when I ordered a bare heatsink and went the thermal adhesive pad route...Drilled and tapped ALWAYS beats thermal adhesive!

BTW-Anyone know how to photograph a tank lit by LEDs? My camera cant get any good pics of the new tank. They all look like trash.

Matt
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Old 08-01-2010, 06:31 PM   #49
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Is it better because you can use something like arctic silver rather than the pad, or is it more secure?

Maybe if you take the picture from above the tank looking down, you won't get as much glare? If you use optical zoom, being farther away can reduce the pixilation and glare, as well as reduce the angle downward for the picture. It'd be hard to catch fish if you're far away though.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:15 AM   #50
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1 in. x 48 in. Flat Bar 1/8 in. Thick, Aluminum - 44660.0 at The Home Depot

Something like that, if you have a way to cut into strips, you could just use one strip per series of 6 then have one piece to fasten them all together.
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