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Old 05-17-2012, 10:50 AM   #11
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Heared back from RapidLED - They are SO friggin fast on their e-mails.

Here's the reply:

Alex,
They don't come pre-tinned, but the board that the solderpads can handle the heat from the soldering iron, so don't worry about it. Just make sure you don't touch the actual LED in the middle of the board with the iron!

Let us know if you have any more questions.

Regards,
Vince
Rapid LED



Gonna start watching Youtube videos. Wish I bought an extra LED or two.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:22 AM   #12
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If anyone is interested, I figured out where the aluminium came from - and Ikea Triple Rail Curtian Holder:

KVARTAL Triple curtain rail - IKEA
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:20 PM   #13
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That looks like a pretty sweet heatsink with fins to dissipate the heat and the aluminium is a solid piece which means a lot of heat sinking potential. My guess is the LEDs will run super cool, but if not a very small fan to cool the heatsink would make it perfect.

I don't have any experience with LEDs. But I did try to solder a few times when I made a solar panel. It's kind of difficult to do cleanly and takes a little bit of practice to get the right amount of solder in the right place. I would practice first and use a pencil style soldering iron.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:10 PM   #14
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I have a 25 watt Pistol grip soldering iron, which is less than ideal. Ideally I'd want one hotter than that. After looking at video's of this, I'm fairly certian I'll be OK. I think I'll make some sort of holding mechanizim for the LED to stop it from scooting around everywhere while I try and work. I have the solder already as well from when I repaired my LCD Television
(not sure how long that photo will work for - Copied from facebook)

I'm just worried about getting the LED too hot, but from what I can see about "reflow" soldering to mount them to the board, that the LED is plenty hardy. its amazing really!

I think I'll just make sure to solder them before attaching them to the heatsync. My 25 watt soldering iron would have a tough time combating the heat dissipation of all that aluminium!
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:52 AM   #15
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So, Still waiting for the parts to come in from RAPID LED. Tracking shows its stuck at Customs :-(

Also started thinking about Controlling it.

I COULD just plug it into my 24 Hour timer... But then I started thinking about Fading the LED's on, and then having a relay turn on my main T5's once it reaches about 70%, to lessen the "shock" of bright lights turning on. Kind of a sunrise then sunset.

Do they make relays that handle 0-10 volts, and can actuate the Mains of 120 volt? (not sure if that makes sense)

The signal would only be 500mah, so the relay would have to be fairly efficient.
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:37 PM   #16
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It Arrived! it arrived!

Everything is as it should be. Tested all LED's. Need new retina's now. They're super bright with two AA Batteries.

The Optics don't come pre-mounted, But they've told me that the thermal adhesive works well to mount it, and to avoid superglue as the fumes can fog the lens.

I'm going to see if I can pre-tinn all the LED's and the wires tonight.

Unboxing:






I've already turned down the Drive to minimum (300mah?) as to not forget. The LED's I have can be driven at the maximum, but not without great cooling, so for testing reasons I'll leave it at 300mah until everything is all assembled.

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Old 05-23-2012, 05:32 PM   #17
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I am happy you got them. I can't wait to see it up and running!
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:30 PM   #18
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Alright, Super Busy Night!

I don't know what I was smoking, but I saw that the Star (Mounting) for the LED was 13mm wide... Turns out it was 20mm wide, which was way to big to fit on my heatsync because there is a tiny lip on it.

I took a risk, and "clipped" part of the heat sync off with some sidecutters. I tested to ensure that it was still electrically isolated. It was. After clipping all 12 LED's, 2 of them didn't work. I took a file to the two that didn't work (after they were pre-tinned) and was able to fix them up.

They are now glued to my heatsync via Arctic Silver Adhesive.

Now that they are mounted, I've tested them all with the AA tester. I'm fairly sure I've done permenant damage to my eyes as there is a green/yellow blob in my vision. I smartened up (a little late) and wired my dimmer switch in so I could stop giving myself welders flash with the LED's. These suckers are BRIGHT.

My biggest fear now, is that when I wire it all together, the Solder will run over the cut edge and short out. I'm really going to have to be careful when doing this. Everything is now pre-tinned, so I won't have to add any solder. This should help, but I am nervous!

For those of you who are afraid of tackling this yourself due to the soldering aspect... Its actually quite easy. My biggest BIGGEST bit of advice - Don't be impatient, Let your soldering iron heat up fully! (5+ minutes!) Once you get going, then it really only takes 2-3 seconds per Terminal to pre-tin. Also, Make sure you get a solder with a rosin core. I had a bit without it, and it just did NOT want to stick. I realzed after 1 LED and switched to the rosin core, and it went so much faster.

Also... Ventilate. I've got a killer headache right now, and its 100% because of soldering inside my apartment.
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Old 05-24-2012, 03:07 AM   #19
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Quote:
Also... Ventilate. I've got a killer headache right now, and its 100% because of soldering inside my apartment.
There is a reason why fume extractor was invented
As for the soft start, it depend on your electronics skills.
This super cheap 3 component circuit will soft-start your leds, its only 30-50 sec before full brightness reached, by changing the R1 value to a larger will increase the time to reach full brightness.


If you willing learn or already have experience with micro-controllers, check out this link
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:03 AM   #20
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Ok, so I've got them installed on the heatsync, and I bought a multimeter as well. I have it tuned to 1 amp. The LED's can do 1500mah, and the driver can do 1300mah, but I decided for now to leave it lower as I don't run CO2. It also leaves me some headroom for the future, will run cooler, and still should provide a LOT of light. (4200lm)

Wish I had a par reader.

Next, I'll test fit in my enclosure (involves moving my T5H0 to the edge of it) and then throw it on top of the aquarium. If all goes well, I'll mount the optics.
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