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Old 08-01-2003, 01:05 PM   #11
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got an email from craftics - my glue should be here on 8/5

can't wait for it to arrive so I can weld together mine and test it out

btw, to be on the safe side, I ordered three viscosities of Weld On ... #4 which is water-like, #16 which is a thin gel and #40 which is a 2 part epoxy like material ... The #40 meets some sort of DoD spec for strength and durability, so I'll probably use it to join my inner and outer boxes.

dusty - I also plan to have 2 nylon screws going through the part that hangs on the tank, pressing down onto the lip of the tank, so I can raise and lower the box in relation to the tank, hopefully to give me a little water level adjustment ability.
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Old 08-01-2003, 01:17 PM   #12
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and the chamber "baffle" or weir actually on the outside box needs to be "taller" - this is what sets your tank's water level.
I saw this earlier in the posts and I have to disagree with this... Most overflows have the basket inside the tank determine the water level. The siphon tube then sits over the tank, and in the outer box, the bulkhead and tube should raise above the siphon U-tube. this will create the lock and thus when the power goes out, the overflow will not lose the siphon. The outside of all the overflows I have seen for externals, have been at least 4" below water level...This in turn, creates somewhat of a pull for the water to continue flowing...

Also, the outer box doesn't really need a baffle at all..
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Old 08-01-2003, 01:37 PM   #13
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I think it depends on the design used

many of the DIY designs I have seen use an external weir / baffle, to maintain the siphon while doing maintence on the drain, as well as to help control water level.

I believe the CPR overflow as well as the Life Reef use a weir in the external box as well

I imagine using the inside box solely to set water level is OK too - to each their own
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Old 08-01-2003, 02:20 PM   #14
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well i ordered my acrylic for my sump and overflow $10 for overflow and $70 for sump and all cuts pre done, even the little teeth
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Old 08-01-2003, 04:21 PM   #15
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that's great to hear!

if you get everything and it's really cut nice / fits together well - be sure to write up a quick review for the gen. retailers section - I'm sure others in texas would like to know about a aquaria friendly dealer such as the one you found.

this thought just occured to me

when you orderd your pieces, you did include the width of the paneling in your measurements for the bottom pieces right?

like your overflow being built from 1/8th stock, so you need the bottom to be 1/4" longer and wider so the "walls" can be glued onto it

same thing for your sump - with 1/4" stock you need an extra 1/2" inches length and width on the bottom to accomdate the walls!
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Old 08-01-2003, 04:53 PM   #16
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The inside overflow box. Do you plan on having it have slits or fingers to kind of strain the water going into the box?

Will the inside box be adjustable so you can make minor adjustments to the inside tank water height?
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Old 08-01-2003, 05:34 PM   #17
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yes i did take into consideration the sides and all. yes the fingers are 1/4 inch wide and 1/2 inch deep. the only way i know to make it adjustable is raise it on the tank wall. any other help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-01-2003, 06:53 PM   #18
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Most overflows that hang on the back have a slit cut into the inside box. this slit runs verticle and there is a hole and stainless steel or nylon screw and nut that fit in a hole on the hang on portion of the overflow.

You can losen the nut and slightly rase and lower the intank portion of the overflow to have a direct effect on water level.
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Old 08-01-2003, 08:04 PM   #19
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could i do the same with some xtra acrylic pieces by placing them between the hang on part and the tank wall?
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