Originally Posted by Ziggy953
Your design is sound.
The overflowing part (getting it to drain into the sump) is done by the pump that is pushing water from the sump back into the tank. A 1" PVC
pipe will handle about 600gph. The key is to match your pump to the plumbing you use. This is the same basic principle as in any SW
tank. My tank for instance has dual overflows that handle 1000gph each. I have 3 return pumps that allow for just under 2000gph return so my overflows can handle the water flow.
Since you are doing a plywood tank you can easily accomidate any amount of flow you want. BTW the short pipe is a bad idea. If your pump fails or the power goes out your tank will drain down to that level. You want your overflow pipes to be plumbed all the way to the top of the tank.
I've read a great thread of a plywood tank that I will look for for you. The guy built the "box" and then extended a coast to coast overflow all the way across the back of the tank so there was no piping inside the tank itself. By doing something like this you will get maximum surface skimming and excellent flow.
i'm excited to see you taking an interest in my cry for help Ziggy. thank you for that.
I think I'm ditching the idea of the plumbing popping down through the bottom, and since i'm building the tank, i'll incorporate a built in overflow compartment out of site complete with a top and bottom intake.
My idea would be to extend the tank 6 inches from left to right (the new six inches being the overflow and filtration), pop a wood divider in there that goes the entire length from back to front of the tank.
Add a notch with teeth on the top for a skimmer, and a notch with screen on the bottom for bottom debris.
Then compartmentalize the new 6 inch section off with baffles (for lack of a better word) with the compartments having prefilters and other cleaning items before finally having a standpipe or 2 take it down to the sump.
No need for syphons. Does this make sense or am I missing something. It can't be this simple...