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Old 11-06-2008, 07:41 PM   #31
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at the risk of sounding demanding, do you mind telling me what you would do if it was a SW?

A SW setup will work just fine for a FW i believe. Or at least it would be adapted on the fly to support FW fish/plants. Like I said before though, i believe I'm getting the SW bug and this might turn into a 8 bagillion gallon reef tank suspended over my bed and a body modification to add a mermaid type fin to myself. You know how that goes. I think i'm getting obsessede with reef tanks
LOL!!

I have looked into building a plywood tank that is why I was so interested in your thread. If it were me this is what I would do.

I would build the basic box (8' long 4' wide and 30" tall about 600g) I would then build on the back of the tank all the way across the coast to coast overflow. It would be 8' x 6" x 12". I would have a minimum of 8 drain lines (via bulkheads) I would also have a closed loop system with 4 returns and 1 intake. The pump would have an Oceansmotions 4way on the CL pump. This directs the water flow through 2 returns at a time and alternates between each pair creating random flow. I would probably have my return pump plumbed with 4 returns as well on at each corner of the tank (at the top of the tank pointed towards the center of the tank).

With the multiple drain lines you can direct the water flow to different areas of your sump or other equipment needed. One line can be dedicated to the skimmer, another to the refugium (this would probably be at least 100g on a system I would build) the others could be directed to other parts of the sump as needed.

That is in a nutshell what I would do. Obviously I would have to draw up some plans and work out the detail but in general that is what I would do.
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Old 11-06-2008, 09:25 PM   #32
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I know a little about water wells, and at the bottom there is what is called a "Foot Valve" this lets water flow only one way. For a well this keeps the prime on the pump. You could use this in reverse maybe. Just a thought. They are available at any big name hardware store.
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Old 11-07-2008, 02:46 PM   #33
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I know a little about water wells, and at the bottom there is what is called a "Foot Valve" this lets water flow only one way. For a well this keeps the prime on the pump. You could use this in reverse maybe. Just a thought. They are available at any big name hardware store.
A check valve?

This is an option for the FW tank but I would not use it if you decide to go with a reef.

Do some searches on google for reef ready tanks (RR) and see how they are setup. Pictures speak 1000 words.
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Old 11-10-2008, 06:35 PM   #34
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Gotta love DIY tanks. Best thing to so is keep things as simple as possible. Here is my 600G Plywood tank I built last year thats been up and running for 11 months now.
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Old 11-11-2008, 02:33 PM   #35
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Gotta love DIY tanks. Best thing to so is keep things as simple as possible. Here is my 600G Plywood tank I built last year thats been up and running for 11 months now.
i've actually read your thread extensively and believe that your setup is the closest to the one that I want. I've talked with you about in the other thread. On a diff forum anyway. Never saw the website. I'll cruise through it today. Thank you.

btw, lemme ask you while i got you here, what are the dimensions of the viewing pane? do you feel you could've gone with a taller piece of glass acceptably?

The reason I ask, if that I love the look of tall tanks. I want to build one close to 4ft tall, however the strength of the glass with that much water pressure quickly becomes an issue.
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Old 11-11-2008, 05:34 PM   #36
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i've actually read your thread extensively and believe that your setup is the closest to the one that I want. I've talked with you about in the other thread. On a diff forum anyway. Never saw the website. I'll cruise through it today. Thank you.

btw, lemme ask you while i got you here, what are the dimensions of the viewing pane? do you feel you could've gone with a taller piece of glass acceptably?

The reason I ask, if that I love the look of tall tanks. I want to build one close to 4ft tall, however the strength of the glass with that much water pressure quickly becomes an issue.
80"x25" Viewable and yes I probably could have gone taller even with .5" tempered glass, probably at least 30" viewable with no concern. Just as an example I once walked across some doors in my truck at work that were covered in cardboard sheets that keep the dust off to move some stuff around in the front of the truck, well when I got to the delivery site when we were unloading the doors one of the doors I stood on was half glass and only .25" tempered and my 200+ lbs rear end stood right on it and I never knew it. Plate/float glass is a different story it would have shattered immediately. But with a 4' height your looking at 3/4" glass minimum. Acrylic I'm not sure of though.
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Old 11-11-2008, 06:05 PM   #37
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80"x25" Viewable and yes I probably could have gone taller even with .5" tempered glass, probably at least 30" viewable with no concern. Just as an example I once walked across some doors in my truck at work that were covered in cardboard sheets that keep the dust off to move some stuff around in the front of the truck, well when I got to the delivery site when we were unloading the doors one of the doors I stood on was half glass and only .25" tempered and my 200+ lbs rear end stood right on it and I never knew it. Plate/float glass is a different story it would have shattered immediately. But with a 4' height your looking at 3/4" glass minimum. Acrylic I'm not sure of though.
well, i was thinking it's be .5" tempered. The viewing area would be about 5' x 3'. with 3 inches on either side for sealing. the braces would be 2"x6"s. So total glass would be 66" x 42". Too high?
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Old 11-11-2008, 06:18 PM   #38
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Thats a tough one. Might be ok because there will only be 60x36 area of the glass with no support from the water pressure. It also depends on how much water is behind it.
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Old 11-11-2008, 06:26 PM   #39
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Thats a tough one. Might be ok because there will only be 60x36 area of the glass with no support from the water pressure. It also depends on how much water is behind it.
ok, i guess i should elaborate. I was thinking a 6' x 3' x 4'(height) tank. The inside dimensions being only slightly smaller due to size of 3/4" ply. I know it's big and iffy, but I have some theories. I certainly dont want to build something that is destined to fail.

I also dont want to go 3/4" glass if i can help it. Mainly due to cost...
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Old 11-11-2008, 06:46 PM   #40
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To ensure better filtering of the tank, couldn't you have the return line pour into a painted/hidden vertical pipe or compartment so that the return water actually enters the tank near the bottom. Just have the return line pour into the standing pipe, etc. to preven the dreaded siphon.

I put a pipe with a tee at the bottom in a DIY pond filter. The top of the pipe extends above the water level in the tank so that water filling the filter enters the bottom and flows upward (through 25 lbs of large river gravel, layers of floss and sand) to the outlet (DIY bulkhead draining back to the pool) at the top. (the filter is upstream of the pond).
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