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Old 03-22-2013, 02:51 PM   #1
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DIY sump and stand

So I have decided to take it to the next level and add a sump to my current 55. I have some softies and LPS that are doing good but not thriving and I just can't defeat the cyano. I will be adding a skimmer (crazy I've gone this long without one) and will also have a refugium in one compartment of the sump so I can grow macro algae. So ive decided to go with a 20 L which won't fit in my stand so I'm building a new stand to accommodate the new sump, and I thought I would share the process.

These are the plans I used for the frame:

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/diy...binetframe.htm

It's all 2x4 and I used 1/2" plywood for the top and bottom of inside (where the sump will sit).

I will post pics of the build later today.

As for the sump I'm using an idea I found on melevsreef.


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The first chamber is dump and skimmer section, then a 3 baffle bubble trap, 2nd chamber is the return area, 3rd chamber is fuge. I have a mag 7 pump and will t off the return line to feed the fuge. The fuge line will have a ball valve to control flow. The fuge baffle will have teeth (hopefully) and be 1.5" higher than the 3rd bubble trap baffle, which is 9" h.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:55 PM   #2
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Personally I would go with a more basic design for your sump. Swap the return and fuge chamber that way its less plumbing and work on you.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:50 PM   #3
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^ agreed. I'm running it skimmer, fuge then return. Seems to be working good. Keep it simple.
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:51 PM   #4
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I originally planned on doing it that way but I guess the flow might be an issue, especially with sand in the fuge. Russ, do u have 1 " pipe coming from the tank? I went w the bigger CPR overflow and it comes w a 1" bulkhead, which ive read yields 600 gph w just gravity. Shouldnt flow be low through the fuge?

I would much rather do it the way you are saying.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:13 PM   #5
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The actual bulkhead measures 1and 1/2 inches. But the pipe is 3/4. As far as flow, you don't really need it ripping through the sump. I have a steady flow even though I have the ball valve fully open. I'm happy with the way this thing is working. The only thing I might have done differently was maybe not put sand and rubble rock in the fuge. Just run the cheato bare bottom. I know it would defeat the purpose of a fuge because of pod population but it doesn't seem nescesary. My DT for some reason will not keep a good pod population even though there is a lot in the sump. I'm thinking this is because of my 2 sand sifting stars.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:17 PM   #6
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Ok good to know. I wish there was a way I could see how it would be before I glue the baffles in... I went with the cpr 90.

Here's how the stand went:

base with 45* cuts to join the ends and the four corner braces.

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All vertical support braces and the plywood bottom of inside.

Attachment 161532

All horizontal top braces and extra door support brace (not sure if this is needed but I am all for more support)

Attachment 161533

Gluing/fastening the side panels (1/2 " plywood)

Attachment 161534
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:29 PM   #7
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2x4 brace across the bottom about 6 " up to support the doors

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1/8 ply "skin" for the front

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I don't have a router so here's a little trick with some tape and a jigsaw to cut the openings for the doors.

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Some of the corner trim I used

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Old 03-22-2013, 09:51 PM   #8
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Doors are installed with full overlay hinges.

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Now we add the corner trim to conceal the raw plywood sides. Yes that's three tape measures for this cut that's how we roll LoL..

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I have wood floors so we thought "why not put it on rollers so if for some reason we need to move it?" so there you have it- mobile fish tank stand! Seriously though these guys can support 200 lbs each. They're concealed with some baseboards.

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Next we planned out the trim for the doors.

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Old 03-22-2013, 09:52 PM   #9
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Looking good E. make sure you seal the hell out of the inside bottom of the stand with a polyurethane. It's funny when you diy a stand how sturdy you want to make it and look at the weak *** pet store stand the tank was on
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:01 PM   #10
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All the trim is on and it's done! Now all I have to do is putty the nails and paint it. Then it's on to the sump!

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