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Old 04-22-2011, 11:26 PM   #51
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good you fixed her up tho probably holds a little more water then a pre-made sump
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:06 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItchyF1ng3rs
Is this the right silicone to use?

GE Silicone 1
MFG Part # : GE012A 12C
I'm late to this discussion... But the two products I've been told for aquarium use:

GE RTV 108
GE Construction 1200

Both having much stronger glass adhesion than any regular consumer-grade silicone.
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:07 PM   #53
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Love your sump setups, sorry to ask a question on your thread but what hole sizes did you cut to fit the standard 4" socks? I'm designing my new sump and wasn't sure if I should cut a 3.75" or 4"?

Thanks

Tom
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:19 PM   #54
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Hey Tom,

My socks are 7"x17" 200 micron, I cut 6 1/2" diameter holes. Cut cardboard to make a template, then transfer that to your plexiglass.

Hey Batt,

So far so good with the GE 1 holding, I hope it works for years to come !!


Thanks,
Hugh
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:20 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan-peddle View Post
good you fixed her up tho probably holds a little more water then a pre-made sump
Yea, I think it has about 65-75 gallons in it while running.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:35 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItchyF1ng3rs
Hey Tom,

My socks are 7"x17" 200 micron, I cut 6 1/2" diameter holes. Cut cardboard to make a template, then transfer that to your plexiglass.

Hey Batt,

So far so good with the GE 1 holding, I hope it works for years to come !!

Thanks,
Hugh
Gotcha I'll try 3.5" then, thanks!
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:02 AM   #57
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hi friends
i know this is an old post, but this is a yet frequently asked questions. that's why i preferred to share my experience with you. i had the bottom of my 140 liters aquarium cracked a couple of days ago. i was confused between the two choices (add another piece of glass to cover the crack or completely change the bottom). the bottom is the main part of the aquarium that groups all sides together. This was how i assessed the issue: effort wise, covering the crack with a glass piece from inside the aquarium is a way easier. while time wise it will be the same, as in both cases we will wait the same time to let the silicon dry. so the effort is so cheep to have a rigid aquarium again. Hence i went for changing the bottom. i will tell you simple tricks to make the process of removing the silicon faster and easier.
1- use a cutter to partially cut the silicon gluing all the glass sides together before starting to use a razor blade to completely cut it out.
2- i prefer to break the razor blade to two parts to keep your fingers safe from being cut (you may use a razor blade holder)to simplify the use of razor blade.
3- after cutting the glass sides a part, it's time to remove the silicon from glass plates. as new silicon will not stick to old drying one. I used a "painting knife" to remove the big parts of silicon from both glass faces, then i used the razor blade to clean the remaining silicon parts from the edge and faces of the glass plates. this process will be simpler now.
4- finally you will need to remove the remaining fat traces on the glass. some would recommend to use vinegar. i tried it, but it didn't work well. i will tell you for a magic tool to do this, without using any chemicals. simply use old newspaper pages to clean up the fat traces on the glass.

this will cost you an extra day in repairing your aquarium.

now you have brand new glass plates. start to glue up your aquarium again and wait for a couple of days for silicon to dry.

wish this would be helpful for you all.
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