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Old 08-17-2009, 01:09 PM   #11
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just the frame

its really not that hard no measuring for curve, just trace and jig
dude great diagram! imma try it this week i think. probably wed. i will post the results for sure. BTW i spend some time there at Parris Island myself. Semper Fi!
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:39 PM   #12
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my advice as a former general contractor would be to cover the back and sides in plywood to add extra rigidity, and maybe some cross members to the sides and back. The cross beams would also provide you with a way to put a shelf in it if you wish.

The front. if you want it covered I would suggest luan (underlay for a floor) it is only like 1/4 think and should be 'bendable" enough to nail/screw on the bowed front.

Or you can leave the front open, and cut a piece of plywood to add a shelf. The shelf and cross beams will provide a measure of extra support.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:53 PM   #13
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thats just the frame..the outside should be vertical 1x4s on the sides and the front except where the door will be. The 1x4s will add all the rigidity you need. If you do put a bottom in it make it thick, in case you ever put a sump in. I have mine open with the sump directly on the floor.
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:22 PM   #14
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thats just the frame..the outside should be vertical 1x4s on the sides and the front except where the door will be. The 1x4s will add all the rigidity you need. If you do put a bottom in it make it thick, in case you ever put a sump in. I have mine open with the sump directly on the floor.
one by fours all the way around the outside of the frame from top to bottom? that seems easy enough...Glued on and nailed right? Like planks around the outside?
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:57 PM   #15
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thats how i did mine
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:05 PM   #16
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for a more decorative look you could use tongue and groove bead board too.
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:17 PM   #17
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good idea, I did mine this way for money reasons, only cost $27 for a 120g stand
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:13 PM   #18
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What would you guys suggest using for the top? I want something like plywood for added strength but want to be able to finish it really nice. The tank is going to have a layer of foam underneath it but I want the top to look nice... I got the wood for the frame tonight though just ran out of time
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:23 PM   #19
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I go topless...lol. There are some people on this forum that can give you reasons not to put the foam under the tank. Remember tanks are designed to hold the weight the way they are
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:25 PM   #20
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I hate to start this again BUT, DONT PUT FOAM UNDER THE TANK. Tanks are made to rest on the frame that goes around them. It can cause them to break.
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