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Old 01-13-2004, 01:36 AM   #11
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Jprox:

Do you mean the lip around the top that covers the lower 1.5" of the tank?
That's a strip of maple with the edges chamfered with a 45 deg router bit. There are 3 pieces....1 for the front and one for each side. The corners are mitered, although not well, I think i have to adjust my miter saw. I did cheat when i attached them and I used my air nailer along with glue. There's only about 1" of contact area between the lip and the stand, and clamping would have been a PITA.

I just got the router bits for the doors from amazon.com today and I realized that they're not going to work in my router so I started making a router table tonight. I just about have it done, so hopefully i can get to the doors this weekend.

I also have some compact fluorescent lamps coming in a couple days so then i can proceed to make the hood. Alsthough I still have to go hit radioshack and get some moonlights

Jim
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Old 01-13-2004, 04:13 PM   #12
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hey jim,

yeah that was the lip i was talking about. unfortunitly i don't have a miter saw. i have a circular, jig saw and a few different dremels, and a rotozip, i do have a miter box though. i am thinking i might be able to rig up something to get near perfect mitered edges. but that's after i get the frame built.

when you get those doors done, could you post some pics of them ?

thanks,
bry
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Old 01-13-2004, 04:56 PM   #13
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You should be able to do it with a miterbox, but it's just a lot easier with a mitersaw. Insead of doing it like I did, you could just do a butt joint at the end. It won't look as pretty, but it will server the same purpose.

Jim
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Old 01-13-2004, 10:55 PM   #14
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hey jim,

thanks for the suggestion, i am thinking now i will attempt to use the miter box and a handsaw.. it will take forever but least it will turn out nice. i will then afix the lip to the frame, via dowels and glue. can't wait to see pics from your stand jim or thai's. as soon as i start constuction i will post mine, if you either of you guys want.
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Old 01-13-2004, 11:53 PM   #15
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what kind of wood are you using?
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Old 01-14-2004, 12:03 AM   #16
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well for the frame or skin ?

for the frame, i am not exactly sure what the wood is. My local HD has a pile of 2x4's labled "stud quality 2x4's " it was hand written btw, i looked a little more and those were the only ones i was able to find, that match garf' 1.5" x 3.5" suggestion. for the top i was going to use regular stock 3/4 plywood.

for the skin i have no idea, like the doors i am going with the.. "once the frame is built " mind set. that's probably the worse mind set to have...but jim as a far better craftsman than i... what do you suggest and what have you gone with ?

thank you as always for any advice,
bryan
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Old 01-14-2004, 12:41 AM   #17
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Well, I was thinking that for the tools that you have, you should probably use a clear pine for the lip. This will be easier to miter and then adjust with sandpaper if necessary. The harder the wood that you use, the harder it is to work with unless you have the right tools.

FYI 2x4's have measurements of 1.5x3.5. They're known as 2x4's because that's what they used to be a long time ago. 2x4's are now planed down to an exact dimension with a relatively smooth finish. All of this planing takes about 1/4" +- 1/8 off of each side.

For the skin, you might want to try and find a plywood that has a hardwood veneer on it. It'll be quite easy to finish.


There's nothing wrong with designing on the fly. I do it all the time. It would probably cause my grandfather and great-grandfather (both expert cabinet makers) to roll over in their graves. My dad cringed when he watched me working. "where are your plans....how are you doing this????" I still haven't designed my doors, all i know is that they will have a finished dimension of 16x20". If you want to make a bad miter joint look better, get some wood filler or some type of putty that matches the wood. It works great to fill nail holes or bad joints. Unless you know where the mistakes are, they're invisible.

BTW i've only been woodworking for about 4 years now. I started when i was 22 and inherited 20 grand in tools.


keep the questions coming.

Jim
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Old 01-14-2004, 01:51 AM   #18
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hey jim,

thanks for the information, when i was at home depot (i admit i didn't look very throughly) i saw only 2 stacks of 2x4's only one had the exact 1.5x3.5 2x4's and the other was largely closer to 2 and 4 inches (i didn't measure it myself, a buddy did) according to my friend. i am planning on building the lip from that same stock too, i am pretty sure it pine, now that i think about it. i was thinking about getting hardwood veneer just for the ease of finishing i have refinished some furniture in the past and i am not againist putting time into it.. but i guess what we'll see what strike me, when it comes time to skin the beast.

tomorrow i am going lumber hunting, hopefully i can use the garage tomarrow. Tomorrow's hi is suppose to be 25, and the gas heater in the garage doesn't like to work all the time (sometimes the pilot will stay lit and sometimes not) or i could do the cutting in the basement. hopefully the heater will cooperate tomarrow.

but thanks jim for the suggestions, corrections, and the advice. i am thinking i'm in good shape for tomorrow, and if i run into any snags you will be the first person i turn too.

thanks again
bryan
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Old 01-14-2004, 05:42 PM   #19
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One secret I have used to true up my miter cuts is to take the two pieces that are going to be mitered and recut the joint after you have cut the 45's. That way you split the difference and the joint trues right up.
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Old 01-14-2004, 06:28 PM   #20
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just an update, i didn't buy the wood today, it's been a long day and spending the next 3hrs in my garage cutting wood, will just be too much. probably going to buy the wood tomarrow (thursday) or friday and turn this back into a weekend project.

thanks dave for the miter advice, i will only need 2 mitered edges with my design.. but if i need to true them up, i will try your suggestion, thank you!

thai, jim any pics yet ? i am still dieing to see doors

bryan
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