idea for moonlights

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true, you will not get the interference lines (shimmer) like you would from point light source(s).

if you build that huge array, just include a pot and you're good to go I'd say :)

you being EE should build yourself a proper driver circuit, using the 555 and a little protoboard action.

those 10mm LED's should be able to do at least 18000mcd driven properly, if not 30000mcd.
 
what was Hara's technique? did she go for spotlight or full? I love that pic, the way it made the tank look and wanna do it, but a bit confused as t how it was specifically done, also how much did it cost to do it? On the other hand would a full array be cheaper than the spotlight... using a neon bar? Thanks!
 
I am thinking of attaching the same method as Hara, the pen cap method, to the underside of the flip door on the canopy (the standard ones all tanks usually come with). I am thinking of attaching one to each side and one in the middle, in groups of one, and angle them towards the center to their respective sides... will that work? Or will this make the flip door not close all the way.. othe than that I wouldn't know where to put them :p
 
The flourecents looks a lot cleaner and not so messy to attach... but will it corrode faster? Or is there a way to protect it from water evaporating and stuff?
 
okay Its pretty much decided that I am going to go for the cathrode tube because its easier, less messy, and more prof. looking, the only sucky thing is that I won't have the ripple effect, but it will make my future GSP mega happy, and still make the aquarium amazing looking at night!
The only thing I am really missing is the wiring of it all. At this rate I think I am just going to complete a DIY hood and attach the regular flour. tube light and next to it the cathrode, and follow the plans from DIY aquaria pages when he did the PC's hood, this would fix the protection from water evaporation problem... but am really lost as to how to wire it... anyone wanna take a shot at it :?: thanks!
 
A RadioShack salesperson gave my some annoying news.

I've been using their Bright Blue LED's p/n 276-311 and their Red LED p/n 276-041A.
To make moonlight modules, 2 blue leds (5V forward, 20 ma, 1 000 mcd ) and 1 red (2v forward, 20ma, 6.3 mcd) connivently make up 12v with no waste.

Local RadioShack did not get new stock after I bought both of their blue leds, so I went to the next town and bought both of their blue leds and asked for more.
The salesperson said their ordering system showed 0 instock and no plans to get any more supply. :evil:

I'll be in going to another town this week and will see what they have.

:cry: seems to happen every time I find something that works or is useful :cry:
 
peterp where would you get a liquid acrylic product that you could poor into a mold. because this would be something that sounds kind of fun to make.
 
Kribbz:
Found it a modeling & hobby store, also might be at a craft store like the Michaels chain. I think it was intended for model railroaders to make lakes and rivers with.

Dustybrannum:
Yes you can, that is my current problem!
When I coulden't find the leds here anymore I switched to a cold cathode tube from the computer store, made to light up your PC case, very nice but very bright.
With the dim leds the fish headed off to bed, with the new cold cathode tube they are up all night. :roll:

The tank looks very nice lit by the 12 inch cold cathode blue tube though.

Leads to my next question: anyone know if you can safely dim the CC tube by maybe lowering the supply voltage to the balast from "suggested" 12v?
 
I found a really cheap cold cathode tube, 12 inches, blue, but was wondering is that would be too big for my 45 gallon tank.. will it light up too much? thanks!
 
I did not think(maybe I am wrong) that the CC lights came in other lengths.

Discussing this same topic on the Cichlid-Forum, I found someone who is running their CC light at 7.5volts and says the output is much better/dimmer.

I am going to try to make it to a radio-shack tonight and get a variable output adapter (they have them that can be set to output from 4.7volts to 12 volts).
And see what can be done using it.
 
hmm.. sounds like a plan I saw those at radio shack today... how easy do you think it would be to hook an adapter to a CC? Would I still have to use the inverter?
 
oh yeah they make 4 inch CC lights too... you think I should get those instead fo a 12 incher.. or maybe I should get the 12 incher and dim it... is it also possible to add on a white cathode tube for the flourecent? Do they use less power too? I never really found out.. I know a lot about LEDs just not about the CC lights
 
so yeah I was thinking of having both cathodes one blue the other white as the light source for both day and night. I think the cool thing would be to put a light sensor in between the inverter for the blue cathode and the tube of the cathode.. so you wouldn't need to put it on a timer, but have the white one on a time, so when it goes of the light sensor activates the blue cathode. what do you think?
 
I got the variable power adapter(3v-12v 800ma) and the CC tube lights up full length at 6v and goes to full intensity at 12v. The guy on Cichlid-forums was right best seems around 7.5v for me as well.

You still need the inverter :) The CC tubes operate at about 880volts.

I cut the end of a spare pc power connector(I think called molex) and soldered the wires from it to the wire of the new power adapter(I had to cut its end off as well)
Just make sure you have the polarity right before soldering :p
Then just pluged the CC inverter into it.

The inverter that comes with the sunbeam kit can power up to 2 CC tubes.
Not sure if 1 white CC would be enough for a tank light but maybe without plants it would do. I suspect an inverter with 2 white tubes would be more than enough light for a plantless tank.
 
yeah my tank will only have java ferns.. no real light needed.. but yeah the white tube should be powerful enough at 12 inches, for a 36 inch long tank (45 gallons). I ordered one blue tube kit which comes with a dual inverter, so I will attach a white cathode onto it. I will also get an adapter which will be variable. I am definately going to put a timer on the white cathode wires and a light detector on the blue cathode to have an automatic moon light when the white cathode goes out.
 
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