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Old 10-17-2003, 06:17 PM   #21
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true, you will not get the interference lines (shimmer) like you would from point light source(s).

if you build that huge array, just include a pot and you're good to go I'd say

you being EE should build yourself a proper driver circuit, using the 555 and a little protoboard action.

those 10mm LED's should be able to do at least 18000mcd driven properly, if not 30000mcd.
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Old 10-23-2003, 08:19 PM   #22
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what was Hara's technique? did she go for spotlight or full? I love that pic, the way it made the tank look and wanna do it, but a bit confused as t how it was specifically done, also how much did it cost to do it? On the other hand would a full array be cheaper than the spotlight... using a neon bar? Thanks!
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Old 10-23-2003, 09:05 PM   #23
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I am thinking of attaching the same method as Hara, the pen cap method, to the underside of the flip door on the canopy (the standard ones all tanks usually come with). I am thinking of attaching one to each side and one in the middle, in groups of one, and angle them towards the center to their respective sides... will that work? Or will this make the flip door not close all the way.. othe than that I wouldn't know where to put them :P
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Old 10-23-2003, 09:06 PM   #24
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The flourecents looks a lot cleaner and not so messy to attach... but will it corrode faster? Or is there a way to protect it from water evaporating and stuff?
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Old 10-24-2003, 12:21 PM   #25
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err.. the cathrode ray tube
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Old 10-24-2003, 07:54 PM   #26
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okay Its pretty much decided that I am going to go for the cathrode tube because its easier, less messy, and more prof. looking, the only sucky thing is that I won't have the ripple effect, but it will make my future GSP mega happy, and still make the aquarium amazing looking at night!
The only thing I am really missing is the wiring of it all. At this rate I think I am just going to complete a DIY hood and attach the regular flour. tube light and next to it the cathrode, and follow the plans from DIY aquaria pages when he did the PC's hood, this would fix the protection from water evaporation problem... but am really lost as to how to wire it... anyone wanna take a shot at it thanks!
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Old 10-26-2003, 08:01 PM   #27
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A RadioShack salesperson gave my some annoying news.

I've been using their Bright Blue LED's p/n 276-311 and their Red LED p/n 276-041A.
To make moonlight modules, 2 blue leds (5V forward, 20 ma, 1 000 mcd ) and 1 red (2v forward, 20ma, 6.3 mcd) connivently make up 12v with no waste.

Local RadioShack did not get new stock after I bought both of their blue leds, so I went to the next town and bought both of their blue leds and asked for more.
The salesperson said their ordering system showed 0 instock and no plans to get any more supply.

I'll be in going to another town this week and will see what they have.

seems to happen every time I find something that works or is useful
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Old 10-26-2003, 08:08 PM   #28
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man that sucks sorry to hear... why not just order some online? Oh I found a nice website for those who want to do this project...

http://www.kaotica.com/frag/diy/moonlight/
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Old 10-29-2003, 04:41 PM   #29
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peterp where would you get a liquid acrylic product that you could poor into a mold. because this would be something that sounds kind of fun to make.
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Old 10-30-2003, 10:55 AM   #30
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Think you can put out too much lighting for moonlight?
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