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Old 08-14-2008, 04:23 PM   #21
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Exactly!!
If you worried about distributing the weight on the bottom glass, your better off using egg crate Inside the tank to distribute weight.
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Understanding the basics will let you make informed decisions on what advice to follow, and what advice is just plain hooey!
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:33 PM   #22
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The OP wants to do the right thing (i.e., lessen the odds of his tank breaking or leaking). He just needs to know how to select the proper density foam and position it properly. Anybody else have an idea how to deal with the six scenarios that put pressure on the silicon seams and bottom plate? All of my tanks have uneven areas between the tank and stand. The gaps are caused by one or more of the six. I'm using foam to deal with them, but I am always looking for better ideas.
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:47 PM   #23
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make your stand perfectly level
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:53 PM   #24
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On your foam theory, say you have foam under the tank and it does compress to make up for imperfections. OK, so most of the foam is now at maximum compression and rigid. Say a corner sags because the wood got wet. How does the foam, which was compressed and rigid, now become less compressed but stay just as rigid, in that it is still supporting the same amount of weight under full or partiall compressed? Does the foam somehow expand and become stronger?
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Old 08-15-2008, 05:01 PM   #25
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and what about the floor that sags over time? What about a stand that sags over time. So often I read post about someones tank that broke and they almost always blame the tank manufacturer. Here is a picture of one my 75G tanks with a stand from a major pet store chain. The tank was perfectly level when I first installed it. After a year a visible sag developed in the center. Without the foam, this tank could have easily split a seam.
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Old 08-15-2008, 05:05 PM   #26
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You have to choose the proper foam. I use closed-cell exercise foam that does not permanently crush. The pink foam sold at HD has a hard crust that, once compressed, does not spring back. The blue foam sold at Lowes is better because it is spongy and can spring back. I use that on my 150G Tall.
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Old 08-15-2008, 05:13 PM   #27
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So you are saying that the foam expanded and got stronger and was able to support the tank the same way as the compressed foam at the corners? Super Foam!
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Old 08-15-2008, 05:21 PM   #28
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I would certianly use a pad with any stand not recomended by the manufacturer, for the previously stated reasons concerning irregularities in the stand and twisting/sloping. The pad must be under the edges, as others stated the weight of the tank is supposed to be on the edges. It's much easier to deal with a pad that's under the whole tank than a ring around the edge, but that's jus a personal preferance.
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Old 08-15-2008, 05:31 PM   #29
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cccapt,
When I first filled up the 75G in the picture, the foam was compressed about 20% all away around the perimeter. That was by design as I tried a few different types of foam. As the stand sagged in the middle over time, the ends compressed to about 50%. The center is somewhere between 10-20% compressed. Closed-cell foam does spring back. The foam is trying to keep the approximately 6lbs/frame inch force constant around the perimeter.

I have the tank running about three years now. The foam is about the same as it was after the first year.
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Old 08-15-2008, 05:32 PM   #30
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So you are saying that the foam expanded and got stronger and was able to support the tank the same way as the compressed foam at the corners? Super Foam!
No, but if the stress point moves to a diffrent area, the foam will crush more at the new point of stress.

I would use a new piece of foam when moving the tank, because you want the foam to be uncompressed to start with, in case the pressure points have changed.
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