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Old 12-28-2003, 09:53 PM   #11
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well, it really depends how close you plan on having your lights close to the water. unless you've got a lot of fish splashing and thrashing around at the water's surface, the tiny amount that sprays up from normal turbulance shouldn't cause any distress to halide or fluorescent bulbs.
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Old 12-28-2003, 11:41 PM   #12
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well, about how far would you suggest? I want to get some tridacna clams in the near future (after the tank has stabilized a few months) and the tank itself is 20" deep...after the DSB though, the surface of that would probably be about 15" from the tank top. I read that about 8" is usually a good distance. There will be 3x250 and 4x96 ...got a suggesstion on how high they should be, and if this will pose a splash hazard? Thanks again.
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Old 12-28-2003, 11:56 PM   #13
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And I just realized, 2 more questions...what's a good tool to use to cut eggcrate?
And...I got a small sheet of acrylic today (for the sump) and will it yellow even if it says on it non-yellowing? Or is the primary concern the warping of light wavelengths? Or decreasing intensity? or whatever else it does? Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2003, 11:56 PM   #14
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8" sounds great for the MH

get the PC's as close as you can, since they don't penerate very well and they're not very hot, so a little splash shouldn't hurt
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Old 12-29-2003, 12:01 AM   #15
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updated diagram

things changed:

1) reduced wattage of MH from 400 to 250

2) moved the t5's around a bit to make room for 2 more tubes as a low expense upgrade path

3) changed color temp of MH and T5 bulbs, so they'll be about the same, nice a blue
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Old 12-29-2003, 12:06 AM   #16
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It's a pre-made hood, so I think the PC are only an inch or so closer. I want to use the PC for Actinic supplementation only. The MH will probably be 10,000K (unless anyone has better suggesstions for clams/corals). And in case you just use the email notification (as I do), I'm gonna be redundant: know the best way to cut eggcrate, and will the acrylic yellow if it says non-yellowing? In addition, will acrylic that's approx. 1/11 of an inch be acceptable for sump baffles/walls? Or should I get thicker? And for a splash shield...would thinner acrylic aide in the light-bending and intensity loss, or do I really not need it? I just don't want exploding MH bulbs...I like my fireworks outside. =] Thanks, and I apologize if my redundancy bothers anyone.
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Old 12-29-2003, 12:46 AM   #17
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cut the eggcrate by scoring a deep line and then snaping it

all plastic will yellow exposed to the radiation put off that close to an MH bulb - go for glass and clean it regularly

1/11th of an inch? never heard of that - perhaps 1/8th but that would not be good enough for a stong baffle - 3/16th would work or 1/4
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Old 12-29-2003, 12:50 AM   #18
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My dad had grabbed a piece while I was at work today, and he said the guy told him it was like .09" or something, I just did the math. I haven't done anything to it, so I can take it back tomorrow when I get more eggcrate/stuff for the skimmer. To hold the baffles in place, should I use a good marine-grade epoxy, or regular aquarium silicone? Will a utility knife/boxcutter work to score the eggcrate? Prolly shoulda put this in a different thread...heh, sorry!
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Old 12-29-2003, 12:56 AM   #19
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use a 2 part epoxy for the best hold

if you want to experiment with positioning first, use some silicone, then you can scrape it off and start over

use a drywall knife or one of those big box cutters, something that will let you get a good score into the plastic
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